Donner Summit Petroglyphs (Nevada County, California)

High above Donner Lake in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, a small petroglyph site was created by the ancient residents of this area on granite slabs facing upward. Over the years, I've driven past this site a number of time, but never bothered to stop and explore. That was a mistake on my part, which I decided to correct this evening after work. 

The drive from my office to Donner Summit is only about forty-five minutes and gave me a chance to catch up on a couple of podcasts. Not to mention, the drive across Donner Summit is always a beautiful way to spend a sunset.  In the mid-1800's, this area was the site of legendary drama, as the Donner Party was trapped by record snow falls on their way to California and driven to cannibalism to survive.

Some centuries before that story played out, the original inhabitants of the area decided to carve marks into the granite carpet of this hillside. Exploring their artwork, I note the difficulty in seeing them on this type of stone. Rock art, specifically petroglyphs, are most often carved into the dark desert varnish that covers some stone, but here, the carvings are simply cut into the granite surface. Perhaps under different light, the glyphs would be easier to see, but after a little searching, I'm able to locate several of them.

Spirals, waves, and other figures adorn the large granite panel. A constructed stone marker erected by modern man, provides some basic insight into the purpose of the marks, but as with all ancient rock art, the purpose has been lost to the centuries. Far below, the blue waters of Donner Lake provide relief from the warm summer days that will be upon us soon. Maybe, the artists took refuge from the heat there as well. 

After looking around just a bit more and feeling satisfaction that I've located at least the easiest of the rock art to pick out against the white granite slabs, I decide to return home. Though a pretty basic petroglyph site, I'm glad I made the trip over to visit.

Ballroom Track Site - Dinosaur Valley (Somervell County, Texas)

Whenever I travel, I make an attempt to find interesting sites to visit in the area. This weekend, I'm in Dallas for a convention and after spending some time researching the area before my trip, I decided to take some time out to visit Dinosaur Valley State Park, which is home to some very well preserved dinosaur tracks. Knowing the drive from my hotel to the park takes a little over an hour, I get an early start and arrive at the park at about 8:30 AM.

The Ballroom Track Site is near the front of the park and is described as the best of the parks offerings. After getting out of my rental car, I'm hit in the face with the humidity the mid-west is known for. I grew up in this part of the country, I've lived out west in the high desert of northern Nevada for over fifteen years now, and my tolerance for humidity has evaporated in that time. The trail system is a bit confusing at first, as the equestrian trail, trails to campsites, and the trail to the track site are all tangled.

After finally getting my bearings and ending up at the shallow creek, I wade out into the clear slow-flowing stream and immediately start seeing numerous dinosaur tracks preserved in the fossilized mud. The water is generally only about a foot deep and nice and cool, in contrast to the air temperature.

The tracks here are mostly from theropods, but the occasional large sauropod track can also be found. These examples are said to be among the best preserved in the world and having visited a few other sites around the country, I can see why. These examples benefit from what must have been a very muddy creek bed millions of years ago when these dinosaurs began their ballroom dance, as can be seen by the depth of the tracks. Some sink several inches into the mud-turned-stone. In addition, some examples are so well preserved the talons/claws are clearly visible. 

As I wade up the creek a short distance, I can't help but think back to times as a child when my dad and I would explore the creek beds of Hurricane Creek near his childhood home in western Kentucky. While we never found any dinosaur tracks in those creek beds, I firmly believe those adventures he led me on had a major influence on my love of the great outdoors and sense of adventure. He's been gone for nearly ten years now, but I'd like to think his spirit lives on through me. Miss you, dad.

I continue up the creek bed and find a few more examples, but the section known as the Ballroom is certainly the most heavily populated. In all, I've spend about an hour wondering around the area and hiked probably a mile or so, but it was time extremely well spent. I'm in awe of this site and how well preserved the tracks are. I would highly recommend this site to anyone in the area with even the slightest interest in dinosaurs.

Fort Churchill (Lyon County, Nevada)

 

After running a difficult 5k in the hills of Virginia City, I decided to do a little exploring and inspired by the rich pioneer history of that area, I decided to drive a few miles south east to the ruins of Fort Churchill. Construction of the fort was started in 1860 in response to escalating violence between the local settlers and the Native Paiutes and Bannocks. It was hoped the fort would afford some level of protection for settlers passing through the region.  A quick read of the historical records seems to indicate the violent acts were initiated when two Paiute girls were kidnapped and raped by setters in the area. It quickly escalated into has come to be known as Pyramid Lake War.

The ruins of the Civil War Era fort have been preserved in a state of arrested decay as a state historical park. After paying the entrance fee, I pull into parking area and begin walking around the Ruins Loop, which is a mile-ish long trail that essentially circles the boundary of what would have been the fortified area of the facility. 

The crumbling remains of several buildings appear to be made of a type of sandstone brick, yellow in color and likely made from the materials at hand. In total, there are about ten or so buildings still standing in some form. For some that means a couple of walls, while for others, the structures are largely in tact minus the roofing material. Among the structures, signs indicate some were used as barracks and mess halls, while others served as officer quarters and supply depots. 

Illustration of the fort as it appeared in 1862

I continue around to the far side of the area and finally return to the jeep. It's been an interesting visit into the history of the region. For anyone in the area, I would suggest taking a few minutes out of your travels to explore the ruins.

Manzanita Lake Loop (Lassen Volcanic National Park, California)

 

After grabbing some lunch and sampling a couple of beers at a brewpub in Redding, I start the journey home from my weekend in the Whiskeytown Lake National Recreation Area, but as it is still early in the day, I consider doing one more short hike on the way.

Lassen Volcanic National Park is about an hour from Redding and about 2.5 hours from Reno. I've have visited the park numerous times during my time living in Reno. It's a beautiful place and offers a lot of insight into what's going on below the earth's surface. However, much of the park is closed to vehicle traffic for the majority of the year due to this area receiving exceptional amounts of snow during the winter months. As it is still early May, the road through the park is still closed, but that doesn't mean that some of the lower trails aren't still accessible.

I decided to take a quick hike around the Manzanita Lake Loop, which is just past the northwestern entrance to the park. It's a quick hike and hopefully, it will give me some good shots with a snow-covered Lassen Peak as the backdrop. The trail starts out very easy as it crosses a small stream feeding the lake and meanders through the pondersa pine. Pine needles carpet the forest floor. The park and it's trails don't see much traffic this early in the season. There are a few visitors either hiking or picnic scattered about though.

Making my way clockwise around the lake, I test the water temperature. Frigid as expected from this snowmelt fed body of water. Waterfowl play and squabble in the distance, and a cool breeze blows through keeping me a little chilled in my t-shirt and shorts, but not uncomfortable.

Winding around a sharp bend, the lake is now between me and Lassen Peak, which is one of the shots I was hoping for. Another group has found this same spot and are taking advantage of the angles just as I intend to do. It's a beautiful site.

As I round the final bend of the trail, it runs parallel to the entrance road, but there is not much traffic. I snap a few more pictures before hoping in the jeep and returning home. 2-miles in total for this short hike, but it was nice to stretch my legs a bit and get some amazing views.

Boulder Creek Falls (Shasta County, California)

 

For my fourth and final waterfall visit during this trip to the Whiskeytown Lake National Recreation Area, I wanted to seek out Boulder Creek Falls. Originally, I had planned on visiting this one yesterday, but with the bike race and a new look at the park map, I decided to wait until today. 

There are a couple of ways to access this waterfall, but loving my jeep as I do, I decided to take the one that "strongly recommends" a 4x4. In truth, the route to the trailhead is not all that bad. It's a little bump with some steep hills all over gravel. The worst part of it is the narrow road, which has tall steep drop offs on one side or the other as the trail winds its way around the mountain.

Finally reaching the trailhead, at which the road is gated, but serves as the actual trail to the waterfall. The first 150 yards or so is a moderate climb, but then it levels out for the rest of the short hike. It appears this was once a logging road and sections of cleared trees lend support to this idea.

After crossing a small foot bridge just shy of a mile, a small sign indicates the waterfall is just 0.1 miles further up a small side trail. I doubt it's actually that far though, as I seemed to be at the falls in no more than 2 minutes after taking the turn. It sits in a small box canyon and carves it's way out of a basalt cliff, surrounded with the same lush green forest I've been seeing all weekend. The falls itself is only about 40 feet tall, but is very pretty.

Returning to the jeep, I find that I've hiked right at 2 miles out and back to reach the falls. Now it's time to get some lunch and head home, but first I have to make it down that gravel road again. Hopefully, I won't pass anyone coming up the narrow path.

Whiskeytown Falls (Shasta County, California)

 

The trail to waterfall three, Whiskeytown Falls, starts just a half-mile or so up the road from the Crystal Creek Falls trailhead. The trail to this one is called the James K. Carr Trail, named after a former Shasta resident and former Secretary of the Interior. I had hoped to arrive before the crowds and as I pull into an empty parking lot at the trailhead, I think I've accomplished my mission.

The trail starts easy enough as it travels high above a fork of Crystal Creek. There are several flowering trees in bloom here. I'm not sure what the tree is, but its quite striking to see all of these large white flowers above head.

After crossing a small footbridge and a stand of decomposing stone known as Cougar Rock, the trail starts steeply uphill. The park service was nice enough to install a number of benches along the way. I'm feeling good though. A good night's sleep coupled with my recent training regiment has left more than prepared for this ascent.

The trail leaves this canyon and crosses over into the next one. As I pass a marked vista point, I know I'm getting close. Just a bit further and I arrive at the picnic area described in the description. I can't imagine the challenges of bringing a bear box and two picnic tables up this high with no road. Someone managed to do it though.

The guide mentions the waterfall is just a quarter mile or so beyond the picnic area and the measurement seems about right. The falls is listed at a height of 220 feet, but in actuality, it's a series of three waterfalls totaling that distance.

From my reading, it sounds as though the falls was first discovered in the early 1960's, but kept mostly secret. It was "rediscovered" sometime in 2005 and has since become a popular destination. Looking up at the mighty waterfall, I can certainly understand why. It is quite striking. 

A series of steel banisters leads up the side of the cliff and allows a view of the upper sections of the tiered waterfall. I climb my way up, but the water and mud makes it a bit treacherous. I slip a couple of times, but thanks to being cautious, catch myself and suffer no injury.

Finally reaching the highest section, I take a few more pictures before heading back. I take note that all the way back to the jeep, I don't see any other hikers. As I look at my distance, which turns out to be just over 3 miles, a second car pulls into the lot. It looks like I finished just in time.

Crystal Creek Falls (Shasta County, California)

Last night may have been the best night of sleep I've had outdoors since my trip to the Grand Canyon. That previous trip was due to sheer exhaustion, but this time I was in large sleeping bag with a couple of pads underneath me. The temperature overnight was near perfect. I suspect it only got down into the high 40's. I slept through the night and awoke just before sunrise to the music of birdsong. It was glorious.

After breaking camp, I drove up to my first destination of the day, Crystal Creek Falls. While the trail guide suggested a short walk down a dirt road, it was actually paved all the way to the falls. It's probably a quarter mile or less from the parking lot to the waterfall overlook. From high above, the Crystal Creek begins it's drop over a cliff. As it falls, the water fans out like an alluvial flow. The colors are amazing and the sum of it's parts makes this one of the most beautiful waterfalls I've seen in some time.

Guardian Rock (Shasta County, California)

 

While most of my purpose on this weekend's trip to Whiskeytown Lake National Recreation Area was to search out the waterfalls for which the region is known, I also wanted to get in a couple of other hikes. 

My next stop took me to outskirts of the park in search of the Guardian Rock. The map of the trail made it appear to be a short flat path to an interesting rock formation. Instead, it turned out to be a steep ascent of a little over a half-mile. Once reaching my destination, I do my best to ascend to a spot to get a good picture. 

The rock itself is an impressive specimen of what I believe to be basalt. It towers over the small river and the river bends around it as if giving a nod in submission to the mighty sentinel.

While I didn't measure the distance of this short hike, I suspect it was a bit over a mile out and back. Now, it's time to set up camp and call it a night.

Brandy Creek Falls (Shasta County, California)

While researching waterfalls within driving distance of Reno, I stumbled across the Whiskeytown Lake National Recreation Area and it's four famous waterfalls. I decided to make a weekend of it and get a camping reservation lakeside. After driving the three and a half hours to the location just west of Redding, CA, I wanted to knock out at least a couple of hikes.

First on the list was Brandy Creek Falls. The park ranger at the visitors center let me know that a mountain bike race was in progress in that area, but she said the roads were not closed to the public and as I turned onto the side road heading towards the falls, a sheriff's deputy confirmed.

There a number of places to hit the trail from the gravel road, but knowing how much I was intending to pack into this short visit, I figured it was best to park as close to the falls as possible. Along the way, I encountered a number of mountain bikers and did my best to take it slow and easy, but some of them still seemed annoyed that the road was not closed. A guy on a dirt bike, presumably one of the race organizers, honked at me at me to stop and then asked me to take it easy especially around the corners. I told him I would be as careful as possible. While I have no love of mountain bikers in general, I certainly don't want to clean one out of my bumper.

Finally reaching the highest trailhead, I parked the jeep and headed up the steep incline. For the first section of the trail, it parallels high above Brandy Creek. Fortunately, there are no bikes permitted on this section of the trail. 

After a bit, the trail and creek begin to converge. When finally they meet, I'm offered a view of what is labeled "Lower Brandy Creek Falls". It's actually a relatively small two-part waterfall. However, I find that from here until the upper falls is nothing but a series of cascading waterfalls. Though much more lush, it's reminiscent of the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, though on a smaller scale.

Finally arriving at the highest and largest of the falls, I find a few other adventurers taking in the scenery. This includes a couple standing on a rock in the center of the creek and blocking my shot. I give them a few minutes and consider asking them to move, but they wouldn't be able to hear me over the crashing water. The waterfall is beautiful, but I finally give up and decide to head back. Arriving back at the trailhead, the final tally is just over 3 miles. Time to head onto my next destination.