My final stop for the day is at High Falls State Park, which is centered around . . . you guessed it . . . a high waterfall. By Yosemite standards, the waterfall itself is quite tiny, but it is reminiscent of the plethora of falls along the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne in the high country of the park. The main differences are an obvious lack of twenty feet of snow and the water here is much more muddy than the clear mountain streams of that park, oh so far away. Still, this is a beautiful place.
Normal guy with a normal life tries to get out and see the world every chance he gets.
Tuesday, December 31, 2019
High Falls (Butts County, Georgia)
My final stop for the day is at High Falls State Park, which is centered around . . . you guessed it . . . a high waterfall. By Yosemite standards, the waterfall itself is quite tiny, but it is reminiscent of the plethora of falls along the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne in the high country of the park. The main differences are an obvious lack of twenty feet of snow and the water here is much more muddy than the clear mountain streams of that park, oh so far away. Still, this is a beautiful place.
Ocmulgee Mounds (Bibb County, Georgia)
The Native American Mississippian culture and the nations of people that pre-dated it ranged far and wide east of the great river. Growing up near St. Louis, I'm very familiar with Cahokia, which is though to have been a regional capital, but there are a number of other smaller sites scattered around the eastern United States. One of these is Ocmulgee.
Leaving the visitors center, I first encounter the diminutive Cornfield Mound and Earthlodge, which is restored ceremonial center that is hollowed out and allows visitors to walk inside. Continuing up the trail, I next encounter Great Temple and Lesser Temple Mounds, which were obviously central to the community. The larger of the two towers some sixty of seventy feet above the surrounding landscape and with the addition of a set of wooden stairs, I take the time to climb to the top to survey my surroundings.
Doll's Head Trail (Dekalb County, Georgia)
While researching trails in and around at Atlanta, I stumbled across one that had an unusual name. Doll's Head Trail is a few miles south of downtown Atlanta in something of a less than desirable area. It wanders along the Constitution Lakes, which were dug out decades ago for clay to be used in bricks. Over the years, the pits filled in and a partially-paved trail and boardwalk system has been built to create an urban park. Some years ago, a local carpenter started a movement that has since been fueled by local volunteers to turn a small section of that trail into an art project. Using trash items found at and around the site, these folks have created an eerie, almost post-apocalyptic urban landscape.
Since my company graciously decided to add a few holidays to our schedule, including New Year's Eve, I decided to not waste my day off and hit a few trails. Doll's Head seemed like a great place to start. Luckily, it seems most of the city has taken the day off, as the highways are not jammed packed as they would be this early hour on a normal Tuesday. I arrive at the trailhead parking lot just before eight. A couple of other cars are here, with people hanging out in them and the smell of a particular herb fills the air. Nonetheless, I'm here for other reasons.
Saturday, December 28, 2019
Vickery Creek Trail (Fulton County, Georgia)
My final hike of the day is also along one of the tributaries to the Chattahoochee River. This one is called Vickery Creek. Getting to the trailhead just before noon, I luckily snag the final open parking spot. Apparently, this is a popular area. The trail departs the parking lot and follows the large creek for a ways. A side trail heads up to the steep hill to a parallel trail at the top of the ridge. I opt to hang by the river for now.
The trail passes through some thick brush, which has been conveniently carved to allow passage, before arriving at a short cliff above the creek. I'm assured by my map that the trail passes this way, but bouldering around the cliff a little ways, I'm not convinced that the map is marked correctly. It might be passable beyond, but I can't see around the next bend and I with the cold creek flowing a couple of dozen feet below me, I decide to turn back and head up the side trail I had passed a short time before.
Once I reach the top of the ridge, the trail is about as easy as could be for the next little while. I pass a number of trail intersections, but I have a pretty good line on the route I want to take. After a short switchback, I am once again above the creek and in the distance I can hear either rapids or a waterfall.
Moving on around the top of this plateau, I encounter a number of other side trails, but eventually make my way back to the jeep. This little hike added on about 4.1 miles to my total for the day. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday and if the rains continue to hold, I may even get some more hiking in tomorrow; we'll see.
Sope Creek and the Marietta Paper Mill Ruins (Cobb County, Georgia)
Since joining the local hiker community in and around Atlanta, I've been told that I must visit Sope Creek, which is a large tributary to the Chattahoochee River. All those telling me of the hike, spoke of some amazing ruins along the trail. Since the rain seems to be holding off for now, I figured today is the day.
I arrive at the trailhead parking lot around 9:30 AM and quickly hit the trail. As this is only going to be a short hike, I only bring my camera this time. I quickly learn that here is a network of trails here in the park, but find my intended path without much trouble. It travels through the deciduous wood, which is littered with fallen leaves this time of year. A gate bars bikes from certain sections is noted as such.
The ruins were definitely very cool to visit, but beyond that and the creek, this trail doesn't offer a great deal of uniqueness. Still, it's great to be outside taking in the fresh-ish air once again. Returning to the jeep, I see I logged about 3.5 miles on this one. I'm sure one could get in more miles with the criss-cross of trails going on here, but I have another destination to hit today and I'll add up more miles there.
Kennesaw Mountain (Cobb County, Georgia)
Georgia is very rich in history, especially the history of the American Civil War. Towards the end of that year, Union Major General William Tecumseh Sherman lead a campaign to seize one of the richest cites of the Confederacy and my new home, Atlanta. Several skirmishes took place during the campaign, but one of the bloodiest and one of the few victories for the south took place at Kennesaw Mountain just north of the city proper. On June 27, 1864, Union forces made a direct assault on the heavily fortified mountain and after approximately three hours of horrific combat, the fighting ceased and the Union Army dug in across from the Confederates. Nearly three thousand northerners fell in the assault, while only about one thousand of the defenders lost their lives. While the Union's advance had been temporarily halted, a number of flanking maneuvers in the following weeks saw Atlanta captured.
As I approach the top of the mountain, a number of civil war-era canons have been staged, much as they might have been placed during the actual battle. Between the armaments and fog, this place has an eerie feel to it. Perhaps those that lost their lives here over a century and a half ago haunt this place.
Continuing up to the summit, a doe and her two fawns run across the trail in front of me. Just past they point where they crossed, a rock outcropping marks the summit of the mountain, which Sherman's forces never saw that day so long ago. In the rocks, someone has carved "Prepare to meet thy god". Perhaps a overzealous Confederate soldiers warning to the advancing forces or maybe just graffiti carved long after the Civil War. After a little research, it seems that here is no answer to that question.
Returning the way I came, a light drizzle begins to fall. Weather reports suggested the rain would hold until this evening, but they were obviously incorrect. I double-time it down the hill and return to my jeep after having hiked about 2.3 miles. Of course, the rain has now stopped and my indecision about heading to my next destination is quickly resolved.
Sunday, December 15, 2019
Sweetwater Creek Trail (Douglas County, Georgia)
Since moving to Georgia, I've made a concerted effort to get out, do things, and meet people. Meetup has been a great tool towards those goals. Today is my third hike with one of the local groups and we will be hiking the trails of the Sweetwater Creek State Park, which is a few miles west of downtown and OTP (outside the perimeter).
I arrived a bit early and had the opportunity to walk through the park's museum, which contains a number of Colonial, Civil War, and even Native American artifacts. As I wrapped up my time in the museum, a few hikers began to gather outside. Today's event is co-hosted by two-different meetups and after everyone arrives and we exchange names, it seems we have about twenty people in the group.
We quickly head out on the white trail, which departs directly behind the museum and makes a large loop before connecting to the orange and black trails, which we are also planning to hike today. The weather is pleasant and the pace is quick, just like I enjoy it. As we make our way through the bare deciduous trees, having shed their autumn colors on the forest floor, I'm surprised at how well the trail is visible even in this sea of fallen leaves.
Returning to the parking lot, we say our goodbyes and head our separate ways. It was a pretty nice hike with some interesting scenery totaling about 7.7 miles. Not a bad day, but I really need to get my butt back in shape.
Friday, December 6, 2019
Cumberland Island Bikepacking Adventure (Camden County, Georgia)
A couple of months ago and prior to moving to Atlanta, I began searching the internet for groups and events that I thought I might want to be part of after the move. Among the events I had found was a REI-hosted bikepacking trip to a large island just off the Georgia Coast called Cumberland Island. While I've done a pretty fair amount of backpacking over the last several years, I have never been bikepacking. To go with an experienced group, who would also provide the necessary gear (and bike) seemed an ideal way to both try out a new activity and to explore a new area. Besides, as I get older, my knees my appreciate a lower impact activity, lol.
Day 1
Meeting up with the two REI guides and nine adventurers near the National Park Service's visitor center for the island, we began our preparations. I brought a lot of my personal backpacking gear with me, expecting to leave some of it behind in the jeep. The guides were terrific about telling us what to expect and demonstrating how to properly load the bikes and specially-designed bikepacking bags they provided. From all indications, it was going to be a fabulous weekend with terrific weather.
With our bikes loaded, we peddled down to the ferry that would carry us and our gear the 45-minute ride down the St. Mary's River and over to Sea Camp, the primary ranger station on the island. The ferry ride was uneventful, but pretty and gave us a chance to get to know each other. In addition to my group of bikepackers, REI was also hosing a basic camp-out on the island this weekend, which would be attended by thirty-five or so more people. Though the park service does provide a daily ferry to and from the island, this boat was hired by REI to carry all of us over to the island.
After we disembarked from the ferry, we filled our water bottles and then headed to the larger group's campsite to share in some of the REI provided food. Barbeque pork was on the menu tonight, but as I had notified the guides of my vegetarian diet, they had provided some additional dehydrated meals for me and another young lady that share my dietary preference. From what others in my group said, the barbeque was quiet tasty though.
Once we had our food and water situation set, we made a last check of gear and equipment and then began peddling down the sandy dirt Main Road north toward Stafford Beach, which would be our home for the evening. Approximately a four-mile ride, we arrived well before sunset. The guides suggested setting up our tents and then exploring the beach a bit before we built a campfire and settled in for dinner and the evening. The campsite itself was set back into the sub-tropical woods and surrounded by dense fauna. As one of the guides and I made an initial inspection of the area, we encountered the first of many armadillos. Apparently, the little armored rats are quite prolific on this island.
After returning to camp, I helped get a campfire going and then began heating some water to cook my dinner, a dehydrated rice and bean dish this evening. We shared stories around the fire and as the temperature dropped with the setting sun, noted that while it was very dark outside, it was only 6 PM. Still, we had all had a busy and active day and most of turned in around 8:30 or so.
Day 2
I slept really well. The temperatures got down into the mid-forties overnight and some complained about being cold, but with my cold gear on and under my backpacking quilt, I was just right. Not in any huge hurry this morning, I wandered out to the beach once again to see a gorgeous sunrise. Most of the others started stirring and made breakfast before we all broke down our camps and reloaded our bikes for today's journey.
As we make our way through the original house and the expansion, two things become clear. First, our tour guide is quite knowledgeable and second, the Carnegies were fabulously wealthy and fabulously snooty. The later comment becomes quite obvious when the guide describes the additional hallways and accommodations built for servants just to prevent them from being seen by house guests. The home itself though is a thing of wonder. Built in 1898, it included a number of early iterations of modern conveniences.
After the 45-minute tour, we broke to explore the grounds and eat some lunch. A few of us wandered over towards the shoreline and enjoyed our lunch at a perfectly placed picnic table under the shade of a live oak. These oaks are all over the island and are somewhat unique in the way their large branches hang so low to the ground, often touching it.
Once we finish up lunch, we head back to our bikes and depart for tonight's campground at Brickhill Bluff, another eight or so miles to the north. We end up taking a wrong turn and adding on a couple of miles, but it's of no matter. We are in no big hurry. Along the way, we see more armadillo and wild horses. I'm told there are lots of wild boar on the island as well, but never manage to see any of those critters. Just as well, their tusks can be dangerous.
We arrive at the campground around 3:30 PM and while some members of the group want to head up to see the first African Baptist Church and some other ruins further north, my backside is screaming at me to get off of this bike. I opt to set up my tent and then take a little hike, before returning to camp to enjoy the sunset from my camp chair. It's paradise with the exception of swarms of biting gnats that refuse to leave me alone.
No fire tonight, as the Park Service has directed, but we manage to create a camp-fire like environment with the use of a couple of solar lamps. As the night settles in, we prepare dinner and enjoy each other's company. Re-hydrated pasta primavera for me this evening. It's actually quite tasty and the cheese sauce is icing on the cake. While I chow down, I hear something rooting around near my tent, a few yards from our dinner spot. I pull out my headlamp and wander over to find an armadillo digging through leaves. I gently kick a stick at him to encourage him to move on away from my stuff, but he takes very little notice and continues his search for food. A moment later, one of our guides makes note of the little spider eyes peering back at us from the leaves. Several large spiders have come up to see what's going on. Perhaps these guys are what the turtle-rat is looking for.
After cleaning up from dinner, I and the others return to our tents and enjoy another wonderful night's rest. As I set my tent up on a ridge just above the shoreline, I'm treated to the sounds of tiny waves crashing all evening. It's very relaxing.
Day 3
Rising before dawn today, we quickly pack up, eat a very light breakfast, and hit the trail. A few of our group need to leave the island early by catching the public ferry which departs two hours before the one REI set up for us. As I climb back onto my bike, I'm reminded of just how painful this is. My tailbone is killing me now and as we ride, each little bump in the road causes pain. I try to keep up with the main group that is now traveling pretty fast in order to cover the eleven or so miles before the early ferry departs, but after a little while I fall back to the slower group. As I'm really in no hurry, it doesn't make much difference. I was just hoping to get back earlier and enjoy some breakfast at the larger REI camp-out site.
Going at a pretty slow pace, we still arrive back at our starting point just prior to the early ferry's departure. We wish those leaving early (which is the majority of our group) safe travels and then head over to enjoy some breakfast hash made by some of the REI camp-out guides.
After second-breakfast, one of my new friends and I hike a couple of miles (not getting on a bike again for a while) to the southern end of the island to see the ruins of Dungeoness, which was the home to Lucy Carnegie for many years, before falling into disrepair and eventually burning down in the 1950's. Judging from what remains, this must have been akin to a medieval castle in its day. It was huge.
Returning to the dock, we await the ferry and the depart for the mainland. It was a really enjoyable weekend and while I have gnat bites and an incredibly sore backside, it was well worth it to explore such a remote area and make some new friends. In total, we covered almost 30.6 miles over the course of the weekend, and while I certainly need some time to recuperate, bikepacking is something I will do again.
Driftwood Beach on Jekyll Island (Glynn County, Georgia)
This weekend, I will exploring parts of the Georgia coast and after looking at some of the hiking options, a place called Driftwood Beach, which is located on Jekyll Island seemed a great place to start. The name seems a little obvious. I'm sure every beach has driftwood, but as I would soon learn, this is a very special place.
Driving the 4-ish hours to the coast last night, I slept at a hotel in nearby Brunswick, GA. Knowing that I wanted to hit this beach before meeting up with the group for big adventure weekend, I got up early and made my way out onto the island. Much of the Georgia coast is made up of what are essentially barrier island and Jekyll is just one of many that is large enough for a small community to call home. Driftwood Beach is toward the northern end of the island and easy to find.
Leaving my jeep behind, I hiked a few dozen yards through the coastal woods before reaching the sandy beaches. I fully expected to see driftwood here, given the name of the locale, but this is more like drift trees and drift forest. The beach for hundreds of yards in either direction is littered with the unmistakable sun-bleached white wood. Not just pieces of trees, but in many, many cases the entire tree. They have washed up here to form a sort of morbid, but strangely beautiful cemetery. Additionally, there are a number of trees that seem to have grown here in the sand at some point and since died and taken on an appearance very much like that of driftwood; thanks to the tides no doubt.
As it is shortly after sunrise, the sun has risen slightly over the Atlantic Ocean's horizon and now casts long shadows from the branches of these fallen trees. I don't claim to be a skilled photographer, but this place must be a photographers dream. After exploring perhaps half-a-mile up the beach and taking a myriad of amazing shots, I head back to the jeep and set off for my next adventure. If you're ever in the area of this place though, it is certainly worth your time to stop.
Thursday, November 28, 2019
Track Rock Gap Petroglyphs (Union County, Georgia)
My final stop for the day is at one of the most prolific rock art sites in the southeastern US. Track Rock Gap is home to set of six large soapstone boulders, carved with a number of animal track and other figures. As you might guess, the area gets its name from the tracks. Some of the tracks represent birds, while others likely represent black bear.
According to information on the site, the petroglyphs were likely carved starting approximately a thousand years ago by the ancestors of the modern Cherokee and related nations. This rock art most closely resembles a site a visited in Missouri several months ago and the style is distinctly different from the dozens of sites I have visited in the great basin and southwest. It still amazing to me though that peoples of such diverse cultures all independently settled on this medium to leave their mark on history. I hope it remains forever.
Raven Cliff Falls (White County, Georgia)
Next stop on today's itinerary is a hike to Raven Cliff and the waterfall that cuts through it. The hike begins at a pretty standard trail head and thanks to my National Parks Pass, I can avoid paying the parking fee. Departing the gravel entrance road, the trail immediately enters a beautifully wooded area and follows Dodd Creek.
The trail is well worn and leaves little doubt of the route. There is a little up and down and a couple of log bridges, one over the main creek and a couple of side streams feeding it. All in all though, it's a really easy hike and I'm able to get into a good pace of nearly four miles an hour. My pace does tend to get interrupted often though by the beauty of this area. In addition to Raven Cliff Falls, which is the main attraction, there are a number of other waterfalls along this creek, some of them being pretty spectacular.
It seems quite a few others had similar ideas about hiking this trail today as it is somewhat busy, but I would guess it gets even busier on a normal weekend. It's probably good that I decided to hike this trail today.
Finally arriving at the end of the trail, Raven Cliff, a fractured piece of granite rises a couple of hundred feet above me and the namesake waterfall has hollowed out a path through the fracture. It's actually quite stunning. A series of cascading falls bring the water down to a more level area where the crowds are, but I, of course, have to do a little climbing to get a better view of the labors of the falling water. It's a stunning feature and while I can only see hints of the water above the cliff and through the fissure, I can see how deep the water has carved into the fault in the granite; enough to form a large pool within the mass of stone. It's breathtaking.
After spending a few minutes, I head back the way I came and return to the parking lot a short time later. The return trip was uneventful, but I was able to get in an additional 5.5 miles on this trail today. I must say that this is probably my favorite hike since arriving in Georgia.
Tallulah Gorge (Habersham County, Georgia)
Since the big family get together for Thanksgiving isn't until Saturday, I thought I would take the morning and afternoon to do some more exploring of the areas around my new home. In talking to a lot of my new acquaintances, a state park called Tallulah Gorge seems to be a favorite spot for hiking and adventure. I figured I would start the day there.
About an hour north, I arrived at the park entrance and as I had hoped, the holiday is seeing most people staying at home, leaving the park and trails to me and just a few others. I recently purchased a Georgia State Parks Pass, which gives me free access to all of this state's treasures. I'm pretty confident it will pay for itself.
The trails start just behind the visitor center and overlook a tall, thousand foot gorge cut by the Tallulah River and extending approximately two miles through the dense quartzite stone. As the river traverses that distance it drops nearly five hundred feet over six waterfalls. These waterfalls are the real source of the attraction of this place. For the most part, the trail itself is carpeted with that recycled tire material making it a party on my feet. It actually feels really good to walk on this bouncy stuff.
After spending a bit of time admiring Hurricane Falls, the largest of the six, from the bottom of the gorge, I decide to climb back up. I'm in pretty good shape, but 500+ steps uphill do get me a little winded. After arriving back a the top, I finish out the overlook trail, which takes me to a view of the Tallulah Dam upstream from the falls. I understand and support the need for hydroelectric power, but it's always a shame to see such things spoil the natural wonders.
Sunday, November 24, 2019
Jones Bridge Trail (Gwinnet County, Georgia)
The Chattahoochee River snakes through the greater Atlanta area and offers a number of terrific trails and water sport options for the so inclined. I set out with a meetup group this morning to explore one of those trails. The Jones Bridge Trail follows a section of the river with in the namesake national recreation area and in the past offered views of the ruins of old wooden bridge that used to allow passage across the river, but talking to some of the other members of the group, it sounds as though the ruin was disassembled and removed at some point in the last couple of years. Oh well, its still a great day for a hike in the woods.
Meeting up with the large group at the parking lot pay station, we do a quick round of introductions and then hit the trail. Late in the fall, which we are now moving into, most of the autumn colors have fallen from the trees and now carpet the ground. It's less pretty, but still nice to be outside. The trails seem to zigzag through the woods, following the river at points, and going a slightly further inland at others.
Along the way, I make a couple of new friends and enjoy conversation with my fellow hikers. As we reach the turn-around point, we stop for a few minutes to rest and enjoy a terrific view of the Chattahoochee. I note how muddy the water looks compared to the crystal clear streams of the Sierras. This is much more like the waterways I grew up with near St. Louis. It's not better or worse, but just different than what I have become accustomed to of the last several years.
After putting in just over 6.5 miles, we end up back where we started. The group says their goodbyes and we go our separate ways. This trail was a fine Sunday afternoon, but didn't really offer much in the way of memorable scenery.
Meeting up with the large group at the parking lot pay station, we do a quick round of introductions and then hit the trail. Late in the fall, which we are now moving into, most of the autumn colors have fallen from the trees and now carpet the ground. It's less pretty, but still nice to be outside. The trails seem to zigzag through the woods, following the river at points, and going a slightly further inland at others.
Along the way, I make a couple of new friends and enjoy conversation with my fellow hikers. As we reach the turn-around point, we stop for a few minutes to rest and enjoy a terrific view of the Chattahoochee. I note how muddy the water looks compared to the crystal clear streams of the Sierras. This is much more like the waterways I grew up with near St. Louis. It's not better or worse, but just different than what I have become accustomed to of the last several years.
After putting in just over 6.5 miles, we end up back where we started. The group says their goodbyes and we go our separate ways. This trail was a fine Sunday afternoon, but didn't really offer much in the way of memorable scenery.