Gettysburg (Adams County, Pennsylvania)

A couple hours east of my last stop brings me to the site of the bloodiest battle of the American Civil War. Between July 1st and July 3rd, 1863, the Union and Confederate forces, lead by Major General George G. Meade and General Robert E. Lee respectively, suffered a combined 50,000 casualties. Some months later, President Lincoln delivered his 271 word address, considered one of the greatest of all time, at this site as it was dedicated to the fallen. I've always wanted to visit this solemn place.

My intention is to hike around the perimeter of the battlefield, but as it is late in the day already, we'll have to see how it goes. Departing the visitor's center parking lot on foot, this section of paved trail first takes me to the Soldier's National Cemetery, where Lincoln spoke some 157 years ago. Like most other Americans, His thoughtfully 'smithed' words have always resonated with me. 

The trail then crosses highway 134 and wanders through General Meade's headquarters. The buildings here have been restored and it has the look and feel of the era. A statue dedicated to the last surviving participant of the war is dedicated here. From this vantage point, one can survey most of the once farmland and later battlefield laid out before us. It's a vast plan and must have looked quite differently with two opposing armies, nearly 100,000 strong each, flirting with and later deeply engaged in a battle of idealisms.

From here the path follows a road, passing by numerous monuments, including a tall statue of General Meade atop his mount facing west, and period-accurate cannons. It all brings an air of reflection to my thoughts. From here, the path leaves the road and crosses the grassy field that was likely the middle-ground between artillery barrages from the opposing sides. How many men must have lost their lives on this plane. May nature never completely cleanse the blood and courage once spilled there, lest we forget.

Reaching the Virginia Memorial, crowned with a mounted likeness of General Lee, I can't help but note the statues of the tow opposing commanders are facing each other from a distance of approximately a mile. Was this purposeful? They were built and dedicated some twelve years apart, but I can't help but think the placement was deliberate and it gives this entire field the look of a massive chessboard. I don't mean to reduce the soldiers to pawns, but the strategies here lend even further to the idea.

As I wander on, the trail once again follows the road for a distance. More and more bronze and stone memorials line the stretch, dedicated to various regiments, brigades, and commanding officers. Some include colorful stories of the bravery and hardships suffered. In all, there must be well over five hundred memorials such as this scattered around the park. In addition, more cannons are often placed near the memorials. I would estimate there are probably one hundred and fifty of them here.

I diverge off of the road and walk past the restored Rose Farm that sits in the middle of the battlefield. This takes me through an area of tall grasses and woods before popping out near Big Round Top, a small hill just outside the perimeter of the battlefield. A short distance further brings me to Little Round Top, which was a very strategic stronghold, held by the Union Soldiers. From Little Round top, the bloody Devils Den can be seen a short distance to the west. From my reading, I've learned that this boulder-strewn area saw some of the harshest fighting and most casualties of the war. Later, I will drive closer to the Den and see for myself.

Gigantic boulders line the crag known as Devil's Den and must have made for battle resembling a modern day paintball game, but with far more dire stakes. I can't imagine the terror of maneuvering and hiding through this boulder field with my enemy doing the same, both of us locked in a "kill or be killed" mentality. It must have been horrific.

After leaving Little Round Top, I make my way back to the road and pass another set of memorials, including the gigantic Pennsylvania Monument, before returning to my jeep. It's starting to get dark and I'm in need of sustenance. This has truly been an enlightening hike though. I put in about 7.9 miles as I made my way around this bloody battlefield and I feel honored to have freely walked among the spirits of these brave men. I will never forget.