Devil's Punch Bowl (Nye County, Nevada)

When Nick asked me if I wanted to check out a couple of sites in the desert this weekend with him, I wasn't sure about going. However, I’m very glad I decided to make the journey. We made four stops, but the most amazing of them was without a doubt the Devil’s Punch Bowl.

Rising up like a bulge in the desert, we began seeing steam rise from a few miles away. Mind you, this is rough country and out in the middle of absolutely no where about fifty miles south of Austin. Had it not been for my jeep, I doubt we would have been able to traverse the roads to this wonder. The Devil’s Punch Bowl, also known as Diana’s Punch Bowl is a geyser, though I do not know and could not find any information on how often it shoots water. The main feature, at the top of the bulge looks as though a stone cylinder some 60 feet in diameter and at least 40 feet tall had been neatly cut out and removed. The inner walls of the cylinder glisten with mist from steam rising from the water’s surface some 30 feet or so below the edge where we stand. The amount of steam rising from the geo-thermally heated pool below is amazing and somewhat obscures our view into the geyser. 

As we do occasionally get clear shots into the depth of the cylinder, we are both amazing at what we see. There is abundant plant life that has made its home on the rocky crevasses at the water’s edge, but this is not normal desert plant life. There are ferns and other high humidity plants flourishing in this sauna. Hues of green make way to snowy white, as we scan further around the surface. It’s frigid up here and with the strong wind blowing, I wouldn't be surprised to find out the wind chill was twenty or thirty below zero. It appears that the steam as it blows across the surface meets with some of this blustery cold wind and freezes into unique ice crystals on the leaves of the foliage below. On the top of the bulge, this is even more apparent as tiny surface level rocks and ridges have ice crystals forming horizontally off them in the face of the wind. It almost looks like minuscule snow-covered Christmas trees grown sideways out of the rocks. Truly breathtaking.

We've been exploring and snapping pictures for the better part of an hour up here and we both feel frozen to the bone. It’s time to head back, but even with the cold temperatures and almost unbearable wind chill, I’m very glad we made this journey this time of year, for the contrasting effect of the hot steam and cold air made for an amazing visual.

Toquima Cave (Nye County, Nevada)

My friend Nick has a great interest in ancient Native American petroglyphs and pictographs, and has inspired interest in me as well. When was suggesting this trip, he included Toquima Cave, which is in a remote area of Central Nevada.

After a long drive down forest service gravel roads, we finally reached the trailhead. Its cold up here tough and there is a light dusting of snow on the ground. We follow the short trail and eventually climb up the rock face to the cave itself, which has been fenced off to protect the treasures contained within. The fence still affords as a terrific view of the pictographs though. These are some of the brightest and boldest, I have seen to date. Whites and Reds illuminate a huge number of figures along most surfaces inside the cave. If only we had a better understand of the ancient peoples that left these artworks for posterity.

Urquhart Castle and Loch Ness (Inverness, Scotland, United Kingdom)

No trip to Scotland would be complete without a visit to the mysterious Loch Ness, which is the home to perhaps the oldest crypto-zoological phenomena still running, the Loch Ness Monster. As we travel down the Western side of the long, narrow, straight loch, we can’t help buy look out over the dark waters, hoping to catch a glimpse of “Nessie”. Nestled in the highlands and against a grey foreboding sky and yellow fields on the opposite shore, this entire region is breathtaking. It is the Scotland I have for so long imagined. It is the Scotland that my ancestors knew many generations ago. It is this Scotland where my heart feels at home, unlike any other place it has ever known.

We make our way towards the picturesque Urquhart Castle, which is often seen in pictures of Loch Ness, as it sits on a small peninsula guarding the ancient waterway. Upon reaching the castle’s visitor center, we sit through a short film documenting its storied history. Eventually, we make our way out to the castle ruins, which are still quite substantial. 

Visiting multiple areas such as the stables, guard house, kitchen, blacksmith, pigeon house, it’s apparent that this was more than just a castle; this ancient ruin was once a community. Legend has it that this place was originally the stronghold of a Pictish King. Near death, he was visited and converted to Christianity by Saint Columba in the 6th century. No one knows precisely when the castle was built on this site, but early mentions of the structure date back to the early 13th century. After many years of service and changing hands multiple times, the castle was partially destroyed near the end of the Jacobite Rebellion in 1692 to prevent it from falling into enemy hands. The mighty fortress was never rebuilt, which is quite a shame given its ideal location on the Loch Ness.

The views of the loch from the ruined stronghold are amazing from practically any angle one can find. It feels ancient here, as if shadows of the past are watching over this great structure, or at least what remains of it. I wonder how many Nessie enthusiasts, both present-day and in the past, have spent time here scanning the murky waters for any sign of the monster. Alas, we see no sign of the beast and must move on to our next city and soon return to the states, but this is a trip that will never be forgotten by either of us.

Wallace National Monument (Stirling, Scotland, United Kingdom)

“Braveheart” has always been one of my favorite movies since its release. This portrayal of Sir William Wallace, the Scottish national hero, speaks to my soul with regard to what a man will do for what he believes in. Leaving Edinburgh, I couldn't pass up the chance to see the monument built to honor this great man.

A short drive northwest from the capitol of Edinburgh lays the city of Stirling, site of one of Wallace’s famous battles with the English. And on a tall, rugged hillside overlooking Stirling, stands the Wallace National Monument. Completed in 1869 to honor the former High Defender of Scotland, the tower is menacing in appearance. Rising like a beacon for hope from the hillside, the tower holds vigil over Scotland, with a statue of Wallace himself on one of the corners.

After a bus ride to the top of the hill, we entered the tower and began making our way up the 246 steps sit in a spiral staircase on one corner of the monument; the only way up. There are four levels within the tower to visit. The first contains a holographic movie telling the tale of Wallace’s exploits against King Edward. Also, contained within this level is the broadsword actually used by the 13th century hero. The second level contains busts of several other notable Scottish heroes, statesmen, and artists. It also contains some beautiful stained glass windows. As the spiral staircase is extremely tight and step, and with the air frigid and thin, my wife decides to stay on this level, while I continue upwards to the top. Upon reaching the third level, I find a display of documents and informational posters talking about the construction of the monument; interesting, but not nearly as interesting to me as the levels below. Finally, upon reaching the top, I step outside to get a marvelous view of Stirling and the nearby River Forth. It’s cold up here though, and very windy. My stay is brief.

I make way back down, rejoin Cass at the second level. After the bus ride back down the hill, we continue on our journey to the famed Scottish Highlands.

Rosslyn Chapel (Midlothian County, Scotland, United Kingdom)

We had been in the great city of Edinburgh, Scotland for the past couple of days. Our experience had been amazing. We had enjoyed some wonderful cuisine (I enjoyed haggis quite a lot) and visited some amazing sites, including a tour of the mighty Edinburgh Castle, defender of Scotland. The only struggle we really had in this beautifully old country was driving around. Adjusting to the driver sitting on the right side of the car, while driving on the left side of the road was quite challenging. Now though, it was time to test that driving skill once again, as we head out towards the highlands, stopping at a couple of sites along our way to Grantown-on-Spey.

Our stop sits about seven miles south of Edinburgh in Roslin Glen. Construction started on the now-famous Rosslyn Glen, which featured prominently in Dan Brown’s “The Da Vinci Code” and its movie adaption, in 1456 and was never completed, at least to the original plan. The chapel is only about one third of its planned size. No one is sure why construction was never completed, but the most obvious answer is money or the lack there of. 

Even in its incomplete state though, the chapel is an architectural marvel to behold. The masonry work both inside and out is of the highest artistic level to be seen in buildings from this period. The inside of the chapel is supported by fourteen pillars, including the “Master Pillar” and the “Prentice Pillar”. The story surrounding these two pillars tells of a master mason having completed the first and then traveling Europe for inspiration for the second. In his absence, one of his apprentices took it upon himself to create the later and in such a way as to overshadow his master’s work. The “Prentice Pillar” contains a representation of the Yggdrasil from Norse mythology. Upon his return and seeing the work, the master murdered his apprentice in a jealous rage. The master was later executed for the murder and their representations sit in the chapel; the master’s forever gazing upon the skilled labor of his apprentice.

Cultural references in the stone work do not end with Norse mythology. There are numerous sculptures in the structure representing a myriad of different cultures, mythologies, and religions. One of the most peculiar is the framing of a window by some type of seed cone, which very closely resemble cobs of corn. This is strange since corn was native to the Americas, which would not be visited by Columbus for another 30+ years.

While no pictures are allowed inside the chapel, a very knowledgeable tour guide gave a very informative lecture concerning various aspects of the chapel. It was quite enjoyable and left us to ponder the structure’s amazing history.

Independence Hall (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania)

With the choice of either a 5-hour or 10-hour layover in Philadelphia on the way to our honeymoon in Scotland, the 10-hour seemed a much better choice since it would give us time to leave the airport and explore the city a little bit. We chose to do this. Immediately after landing, we grabbed a cab and headed to the area of Independence Hall. While this was my second trip to see the historic site, it was my new wife’s first. The cab ride was uneventful and we were let at the visitor center, where we checked the tour schedule. Acquiring tickets, we realized we had a couple of hours to wait and so walked a few blocks in the area looking for an interesting place to have lunch.

We finally settled on a wonderful little bistro on a nearby street corner. The meal was wonderful, and included an appetizer pizza with four types of cheeses and slices of pear – strange, but delicious. After lunch and a couple of drinks, we made our way back to Independence Hall, taking a moment to view the Liberty Bell through the glass of its display building. We probably would have gone in, but the line was extremely long.

Just across the street lay Independence Hall, the birthplace of the great experiment we all America. Seeing it from across the courtyard, it resembles many other buildings of its ear, but it emits some type of aura that few can. It must be our forefather’s spirits holding vigil over the birthplace of their great labor. Unfortunately, the hall was currently under renovation during this visit. There was scaffolding all around the spire of the building, but the construction team, had carefully placed artistically painted sheets around the scaffolding imitating the structure behind it. It was a nice touch.

Upon entering the building with our tour guide and a few dozen other tourists, we made our way into the two main rooms. The first was the colonial courtroom from when this served as the regional courthouse. It was adorned with original furniture and decorative items, which made it easy to imagine the atmosphere of trials that may have taken place here.

The second room we were lead to by our very knowledgeable tour guide was the Assembly Room, where the magic happened. Just prior to the American Revolution, delegates from the thirteen colonies met in this room to debate an action who’s heart and soul would be captured in the words of Thomas Jefferson’s Declaration of Independence, which separated the colonies from England and initiated the Revolutionary War. Men such as George Washington, Benjamin Franklin, John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, John Hancock and many others sat in this room and debated the very nature of man and the truth of his existence in this world as it relates to his own freedom. They were titans and the work they did here defined a nation. One can’t help but feel the glow emanating from this small room. 

In addition to the first two rooms, we also visited the Governor’s Council Chamber and the Long Room on the second floor of the great hall, and while they are certainly interesting, my mind couldn't help leave the Assembly Room and the amazing discussions that must have taken place there almost a quarter of a millennia ago.

Upon completion of the tour, we thanked our wonderful guide and made our way back to the airport. Time to visit the motherland.

Valley of Fire (Clark County, Nevada)

Just as we had driven through Death Valley on the way down to Las Vegas, we drove through this most gorgeous of Nevada’s state parks on the way home.

Even the first site of the orangish-red sandstone stirs the imagination. This park is full of ancient Native American Petroglyphs and bizarre rock formations.

Our first stop, at At’latl Rock exposed us to a highly decorated rock formation. While being flanked by a platoon of cute little ground squirrels, we made our way up to the rock face, which is covered with numerous Petroglyphs. It is truly unfortunate that previous visitors in modern times have defaced some of this mysterious message from the distant past.

Moving on, we began searching the area for a natural arch, mentioned on the signs. As it turns out, the arch is fairly tiny and set upon a much larger boulder. Scanning the area at just the right angle will finally reveal the miniaturized natural wonder.

Our last stop before leaving the park required me to do a short hike, while Cass remained in the jeep. Traversing a short path over the sandstone, I found myself alongside the paved road we had entered on with the goal of my hike directly in front of me. Elephant Rock is an incredibly accurate name for this formation. Time and the elements have worn this particular boulder down in such a way as to make it closely resemble an elephant, with four legs, a head, and a trunk clearly defined. Nature is an amazing artist.

Death Valley National Park (Death Valley National Park, California)

On our way to Las Vegas for a getaway weekend, we decided to drive the length of Death Valley National Park and take in some of the awe-inspiring landscape.

Upon entering the northern end of the park, we were both awed by the stark landscape; not to mention the noticeable increase in air temperature. Very shortly, we came upon Scotty’s Castle, a ranch home of extravagant proportions, which was built in the 1920’s. Unfortunately, we arrived a few minutes too late for the tour; next time.

Continuing on into the park, we proceeded into a contradictory panoramic view. An amazingly beautiful desert terrain lay before us with dark storm clouds sitting atop the peaks on the horizon. It made for an amazing sunset on the way out of the park.

Before exiting though, we walked out onto the salt flats at Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the United States at 282 feet below sea level. This is only too emphasized on the way back to the jeep by a sign labeled “Sea Level” perched far above us on the overlooking mountainside.

Alas, our short visit came to an end as the last remnants of daylight left us, but we were blessed with what must have been a truly rare occurrence in this desolate place on our way out of the park – a few raindrops to renew life in this beautifully dry world.

Cahokia Mounds (St. Clair County, Illinois)

Though I have visited this ancient city a few times when I was younger, I thought Cass might enjoy seeing this Native American metropolis near my home town. The interpretive center has undergone substantial upgrades since my last visit. We casually strolled through the museum-like center learning about the ancient Mississippian Culture that built this city of earthen mounds over one thousand years ago.

Leaving the center, we step out into the great plaza of downtown Ancient Cahokia. Signs of the areas former prominence are everywhere, with mounds of varying sizes rising from the prairie in all directions. Dominating them all though, the mighty Monk’s Mound oversees the entire area. At over 100 feet tall and covering several acres, this impressive mound is the largest of its kind in the Americas.

While the visit was short, it was well worth the short drive. I think Cass really enjoyed it.

Mammoth Cave Historic Tour (Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky)

While visiting my aunt, I decided to revisit with my mother and bride-to-be, the largest cave system in the world at Mammoth Cave National Park. My father had brought me here when I was ten years old or so, but I don’t recall much of that trip due to my young age.

The cave itself is called mammoth not for any fossils of the great beast that may have been found within, but instead due to its great size. Approximately ten million years ago, an ancient river began carving out what has today become over 600 miles of underground passages. Explorers and spelunkers find more passages every year.

We opt to take the Historic Tour, which covers about two miles of passageways in this subterranean world. Our journey begins by passing under a small waterfall into a large limestone passageway, and then opening up into a room the size of a hockey arena. We then begin trekking down a long, straight corridor, the size of which, only a river would be capable of carving. I continually look around for Polyphemus hiding in the shadows, but the giant cave appears to be cyclops-free.

Continuing on, we pass through the dwarf-friendly Tall Man’s Misery and then through a section called Fat Man’s Agony – tight squeeze! Truly, this cave is a wonder of nature. Nearing the end of the planned path, we pass over several “bottomless” pits that descend into utter darkness. We finally reach a set of steel staircases constructed to make the ascent to the surface much friendlier to tourists. After many, many steps, we once again reach the arena-sized room and head back to the entrance and daylight.

Lovelock Cave (Churchill County, Nevada)

For today's little adventure, my fiancee and I decided to take a short drive east to visit the famous Lovelock Cave. The drive to the cave takes out some dirt roads into the desert, but they prove no challenge for the jeep. When we arrive at the trail head, which is just below a small butte that houses the cave, we find a steep trail leading up to the mouth of the cave.

At approximately 80 feet long and 30 feet deep, the cave itself is relatively large compared to other examples of this type of cave I have seen over the years. A large wooden deck has been constructed inside the cave to allow more sure footing for visitors examining the charred ceiling. 

Signs indicate that this cave was used by ancient Native Americans as far back as 4000 years ago. In fact, the discovery of some anciently constructed duck decoys in this cave from that period stirred a lot of interest in the archaeological community. Later, the cave became home to colonies of bats, whose guano became a much sought after commodity a century ago and which allowed for the initial discovery of the artifacts in this cave. There is also a Paiute legend of a race of red-haired giants that they warred with in ancient times. Supposedly, the last surviving members of that race hid in this cave and were killed by creating a large fire inside the cave. Reports indicate that the remains of these giants were found by modern survey's, but they have since disappeared and slipped into legend.

After a short time looking around and reading the various signage describing the legends and geology surrounding the cave, we make our way back to the parking lot and head home.

Tahoe Rim Trail - Kingsbury Grade to Spooner Summit (Washoe and Douglas Counties, Nevada)

Early to bed, early to rise makes a man healthy, wealthy, and wise. It does not, however, make him well-rested. Waking at 4:30 am for this hike reminded me of that old proverb . . . yawn.

Finding 2-3 weeks off of work when I could complete the entire Tahoe Rim Trail seems unlikely, especially with my upcoming nuptials. That being said, I've decided to complete the 165 mile trail in sections over the next year. This morning, Nick and I will knock out a small 12.2 mile section. After stashing Nick’s car at the Spooner Summit Trail head and then driving my jeep to the Kingsbury Grade Trail head, we begin our journey.

While I realize there is a group dedicated to the maintenance of this trail, I’m still very impressed with the amazing trail conditions. That is not to say it is an excessively easy trail, only that finding a misplaced rock or fallen tree seems impossible.

The beauty of Lake Tahoe can be seen along many parts of this eastern section, but never so majestically as the approximate mid-point of this section of the trail. From a flat grass-covered ridge top, the trail offers a sea of green pine, and looking further to the horizon the blueness that is Lake Tahoe; finally culminating in the still snow-covered mountain tops of the Sierra Nevada on the far side . . . breathtaking.

Five or so hours after we sat out and numerous panoramic views later, we arrive back at the Spooner Summit Trail head. 12.2 miles down. 152.8 miles to go!

Bumpass Hell (Lassen Volcanic National Park, California)

Having hiked to Lassen Volcanic National Park’s second largest hydro-thermal basin, Devil’s Kitchen, last year, it seemed only fitting to make the trek to the largest this year, while Cass and I were on a camping trip. Although it was mid-August, snow is still abundant in the park and on this trail. This past winter was the harshest since I've been in Reno. Nevertheless, I, along with a number of other adventurous souls made the hike. While some patches were more like cross-country skiing without the skis, the hike wasn't overly difficult, save the snow-packed downhill sections. Those were actually kind of fun.

Upon arriving at the site of the hydro-thermal activity, it was like entering another world, as the sulfur-rich air stung my nose. The ground was lifeless, with the occasionally hot bubbling mud puddle or steam vent. In the center of this alien landscape lay two pools of boiling water; one more blue than the eyes of a Fremen in Frank Herbert’s imagination, and the other, a silky gray, almost silver. The later was the source of a small run-off through the yellow and white desolation. It almost appeared to be a silver-smelting operation.

Continuing along the boardwalk, I was amazed at the scope of this particular basin. I would estimate it to be more than three acres in size - truly a wonder to see. Having reached the end of the trail, I made for the trail head  Along the way and after having passed most of the snowpack, I overheard a young boy I passed mention to his father that he hoped for more snow. You’ll have your wish soon enough, my young friend.

Yosemite (Yosemite National Park, California)

As my fiancée had never been to Yosemite, I thought it appropriate that we should take a weekend to camp and see the amazing sites the park has to offer. I made all of the arrangements and we headed down to the park. As is tradition, we had to stop at Whoa Nellie Deli for a meal . . . best gas station food anywhere!!

We camped at Wawona and had a terrific site. throughout the trip, we visited many of the famous areas: Tuolumne Meadows, Mariposa Grove, Glacier Point, and of course Yosemite Valley itself.

On our final day though, we visited an area of the park I had not been to either, Hetch Hetchy. John Muir thought of this valley as a near twin to Yosemite and fought his most passionate battle to preserve it's majesty. In the end though, he lost and the O'Shaughnessy Dam was eventually built to create a reservoir out of the valley. Such a shame and something that I doubt would happen in today's world, a world he inspired to preserve such things.

After a couple of days of camping we broke camp and headed home. I think Cass enjoyed the trip though, and as close as Yosemite is, we will of course return.

Red Rock Canyon Petroglyphs (Mono County, California)

While visiting Bishop for my birthday, I decided to drive a bit north of town to visit a petroglyph area known as Red Rock Canyon (not to be confused with Red Rocks Canyon near Las Vegas). 

The drive out the lonely desert road leads many miles north until finally, I notice the a sign indicating the panels. I hop out of the jeep and walk the short trail visiting all of the panels along the way. I know there are many petrolgyphs and other artifacts in this area, but those will have to wait for another day. For now, these amazing examples will have to suffice.

Bristlecone Pine Discovery Trail (Inyo County, California)

For my birthday weekend this year, I decided to spend some time in the Bishop, CA area. Bishop has a lot of great things to see and do. From petroglyphs, to the famous Schat's Bakery, to forests of the ancient bristlecone pines high above the city in the nutrient-poor soil of the White Mountains, the area boasts some great destinations. The last one in that list is the focus of this write-up.

I have visited a couple of bristlecone pine groves in the past, including the Methuselah Grove. Leaving the same trailhead as that trail, a shorter interpretive trail bobs and weaves through more of the ancient sentinels of this mountaintop forest. The Discovery Trail is much shorter, but just as awe-inspiring. 

The like chess pieces rising from the checkered game board, the bristlecone pines poke through the white dolomite soil at regular intervals. Their trunks are gnarled and twisted, and can only hint at the millennia these elder statesmen have witnessed from up on high.

After a short stroll through the grove, I return to the jeep and make my way back to town. Visiting this plays always leaves me feeling minuscule to the vastness of time.

Redwoods National and State Park (Redwoods National Park, California)

In this land of mist and fog overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the giant coastal redwoods stand as monarchs over all they survey, and at 350+ feet tall, they survey pretty much everything. The eight hour drive that my fiancee Cass and I made to reach Crescent City, the northern end of the Redwoods Park area, seemed to fly by fairly uneventfully. While Lassen Volcanic National Park, which we drove past on the way, was still closed due to the snow, we at last got some amazing views of the mighty Mt. Shasta on our way North.

As we get closer and closer to our destination, we begin seeing hints of the beautiful Blue Smith River in the ravines below us. So stirring was it that I wished I had brought my Kayak along. Alas, that will have to be another trip, for the tall trees are our goal this time through.

The hour was fairly late when we arrived in Crescent City and so we decided to simply visit the ranger station for maps and then go to our hotel. The ranger we spoke with was very enthusiastic and helpful as he advised us. A bite of dinner and we were off to bed.

We started Saturday off with a drive down the famous highway 101, headed to a semi-rough jeep trail, Coastal Road North, which offers some breathtaking views of the coast. The trail also passes above a set of farmhouses, long abandoned. A brief walk down the well-worn path revealed a historical marker. These “farmhouses” were actually part of a disguised radar station during WWII, watching the coast for potential mainland attacks by the Japanese – interesting stuff.

A bit further south and we took our first hiking trail of the weekend. This short 1-mile loop attaches to part of the more extensive Coastal Trail and offers a nice view of the ecology of the coast. By making my way through an area off the beaten path and thanks to the low tide, I was able to explore some exposed tidal pools. Unfortunately after scrambling over slippery seaweed-covered rocks for twenty or so minutes, my only reward was the saline-laced air. I had hoped to see a crab or clam or something in the shallow pools, but no such luck.

Continuing on, we drove through a scenic alternative to 101, through the heart of the redwoods forest. These trees are magnificent, as they reach for the sky like perfectly straight pillars supporting the very heavens.

We stopped to take a couple of the numerous side trails. The dampness in this forest only hints at the life swelling from the very earth. Ferns like sand on the beach cover the floor, while the trunks of giant trees a scattered about; their size is amazing. Some trunks are greater than twenty feet in diameter. While not as massive as the Giant Sequoias, their height and majesty are noble in their own right.

Driving further down 101, we encounter a shack with the most amazing smoked salmon (freshly caught in the nearby Klamath River, no doubt), a black sandy beach with some pacific seals lounging about and other wonders for our eyes.

In the late afternoon, we head back north. Holland Hill Road, headed east out of Crescent City, is a little rough, but gives access to the Stout Grove, which was marked as a premier trail for seeing the true giants of this forest. It did not disappoint. The true titans are thick in this small loop hike, but frequency does not diminish their spectacle . . . amazing.

As the sun, what little of it we can see, begins to set, we arrive back at our hotel. We've seen some awe-inspiring sites today. Tomorrow, we head home.