Double Butte at Papago Park (Maricopa County, Arizona)

For my second hike of the day, I chose to visit the Double Buttes of Phoenix's Papago Park. As I struggle to find parking, I realize just how popular this area, which is in the middle of the city, is among the local population. I end up having to park at the nearby zoo's overflow lot and then walk to the trail head.

A number of trails head out towards the red sandstone rises known as the Double Buttes, but my intention is to do the loop around both of them. Unfortunately, the trails are marked with numbers instead of names and I don't have a map. Luckily, the entire area is relatively small and while I don't end up getting in more than a mile and a half, I do get some really nice views of the buttes. 

They rise from the desert floor a hundred or so feet above the trails. The sandstone is covered with wind-carved nooks, that on a smaller scale would look like a tree stump pelted with a BB gun. Adventurous hikers climb in and around the structures, as I walk past. I wish I had a bit more time, as I would like to join them, but unfortunately, my time today is very limited. Perhaps, I'll get a chance to explore more on a later trip.

Hidden Valley via Mormon Trail (Maricopa County, Arizona)

As I was going to be in Phoenix this weekend for a couple of events, I thought I would research and hike a couple of trails near the city. The first was to a beautiful desert landscape inside South Mountain Park, which I would later learn is the largest municipal park in the US, with more than 57 miles of trails. I'll settle for just a short hike with the limited time I have available. Rising early and driving several miles from my hotel to the park, I arrive at the Mormon Trail Head to find the parking log and nearby side streets full of cars. Apparently, this is a popular location. No matter, I park my rental a quarter-mile down the street and hoof it to the trail head.

The trail starts out pretty steep with some pretty noticeable elevation gain over the first mile or so, before leveling out. All along the way, I'm surrounded by the magnificent saguaro cacti. These massive desert "trees" can grow up to 70 feet tall and many examples along this trail are approaching that. Dozens of them cover the hillsides in every direction, and given the golden-red landscape, the green of these prickly skyscrapers is a welcomed contrast. 

It's dry here, but that doesn't seem to deter hikers. The first part of the trail is fairly crowded and I pass group after group with a friendly hello. Even here on the outskirts of the sixth largest city in the US, something about the act of hiking inherently makes people friendly.

As I reach the top of the far ridge, the crowd starts to thin out a bit and when I finally find the well-signed turn towards Hidden Valley, I'm all alone in this desert landscape. Almost immediately after the turn, I encounter the first of three notable rock formations that make the foot path through the dry desert wash much more interesting. 

Fat Man's Pass is a group of RV-sized boulders that have been polished smooth by centuries of human touch. The base seems that it might have been a single boulder at one point in time, eons past, but has since cracked into two nearly equal parts, leaving a crack for the adventurous (and thin) hiker to squeeze through. At first, I look for a passage over the top of the boulders, not recognizing this as place as the named feature, but eventually, I realize what I must do. I remove my small day pack and camera and begin the squeeze through the smooth surface of the crack. It's a snug fit, but I make it through un-scarred.

Continuing down the wash, I next encounter another group of boulders stacked in such a way as to force me to squat and crawl through a small opening, only to reach other side and have to do a little scrambling to get back down to the desert sands. I'm not sure this feature has a name, but it was an interesting site nonetheless.

After reaching the final of the three formations, there is no doubt in my mind that I now stand before The Tunnel. This is the most massive of three formations and consists of a car-sized passage between two building-sized boulders on either side, with a third large boulder (and a number of smaller ones) making up the roof of the tunnel. The tunnel is covered by this large boulder for about 50 feet with the floor a level sea of pale yellow desert sand. The stones have again been polished to a smooth sheen, presumably by humans touch them over the years. Very cool.

Making my way back to the Mormon Trail, I start the return to the parking lot, but just as near the end, there is some congestion and I soon see why. A fellow hiker has injured her ankle and is being evacuated by the Phoenix Fire Department on a wheeled rescue litter. Thinking back to my own recent Wilderness First Responder course, I'm jealous of the wheel. We had to carry our patient's litter through the snow. Ah well, I'm glad to see the she's getting the care she needs. Returning to the rental car, I see that I've hiked just shy of 4 miles on this lollipop-shaped trail. The rock formations and cacti made for a fun and visually interesting hike.

Crystal Ice Cave (Lava Beds National Monument, California)

Last summer, I had the amazing opportunity to take a ranger guided tour into Fern Cave inside Lava Beds National Monument in Northern California. While I on that trip, I learned of another guided cave tour offered during the winter months into an Ice Cave at the other end of the park. Upon mentioning this trip to some friends, several were interested in joining me, but due to the hyper-sensitive cave environment, only six visitors are allowed per week during the winter months, making the tour reservations a rare and highly-sought commodity. Luckily, with some coordination, we were able to secure reservations on our fourth try. 

The drive to Lava Beds is about four hours from Reno and to make our 1:00 PM scheduled tour time, we left about 7:00 AM to provide some buffer. Not knowing what the road conditions would be like, we opted to take a pair of jeeps. Van, Dawson and Bill in Van's Jeep and Nate and I in my jeep. We arrived at the park visitor center and checked in with the rangers, but still having an hour or so before our adventure, we decided to visit a couple of the smaller caves accessible via cave loop just behind the visitor center. While this was the first time at this park for all of my companions, it was my third visit and my second to some of these lava tube caves. Still though, the formations are quite interesting and one would be hard-pressed to get bored here, even upon visiting for the 100th time.

As tour time approached, we headed back to the visitor center and followed the rangers up to the cave entrance. We put on our hard hats, head lamps, knee pads and warm layers as recommended by the rangers, before climbing on the loose volcanic rocks through a small hole and then to the locked gate over the cave entrance. 

Immediately upon entering the cave, we were forced to climb down a steep permanent ladder about 20 feet to the rocky floor below. Head lamps on, we immediately notice our second obstacle - a frozen slide. The next section is a perfectly smooth, but un-level descent down about 50 feet. Holding onto the ropes secured on the other end, we each slide down the ice in turn. It was actually kind of fun.

As we collect ourselves, we encounter the first of the intricate and otherworldly ice formations, for which the cave is known. Ground water seeping through cracks in the basalt cave walls and ceiling has formed a number of icicles on the walls - some of which are 10+ feet tall and have formed a more solid mass spanning from ceiling to floor. Drops from the ceiling have also formed what can only be described as ice stalagmites rising 3 to 5 feet and in some cases, in slightly staggered and tiered formations, as if the source of the water droplets shifted ever so slightly over time. The ice is crystal clear. It's beautiful.

We continue further into the cave and are forced to navigate through another hole in the floor into what used to be the red room entrance. However, as more ice has formed, the entrance has been frozen shut by a frozen pond. Tall stalagmites and stalactites reach for each other over the ice-filled room, which to the eye appears to be filled with water, but upon further examination is clearly ice.

We climb back out of the area and move onto the next section of the cave. Each room, we move into is more spectacular than the last. This one boasts a floor-to-ceiling ice column about 2 feet in diameter. We take a few pictures and move on.

Arriving at the next section, we are greeted by broad and perfectly clear stalagmites rising from the ground. Some of them are six feet tall and 2-3 feet in diameter. Long icicles once again cover sections of the walls. We all comment about how amazing what we are seeing is. It's unlike anything any of us has ever seen.

Next, we must negotiate our way around one of the larges ice formations in the cave, which appears to be a frozen waterfall busting through from the sections above us and spilling out into our level of the cave, but frozen in time. The ice is perfectly clear and perfectly slick, making the maneuver somewhat challenging, but all make it.

The final section of the cave is simply more of what we have already seen, but on a grander scale yet. Numerous clear ice stalagmites rise from the ice-covered floor, while icicles and a full-on ice fall suspend from the cliffs above us.

This is the end of the cave and while we have completed the tour, none of us will be likely to forget this adventure. The ice formations in this cave seem almost unnatural, though they certainly are naturally formed. If you ever have the opportunity to visit, don't miss it. It is unlike anything you have ever or likely will ever seen.

Napa Valley Marathon (Napa County, California)

A weekend in Napa Valley is always an outstanding time. The relaxed atmosphere, the wine, the charm of the small towns along CA-29 are the stuff of great memories. I've been to Napa many times over the years, but this trip is a little different. In addition to driving back and forth between Calistoga and Napa, this time I will be running it as a participant of the 39th Annual Napa Valley Marathon. 

When I started running again a couple of years ago, I never thought I would run a full-marathon, but as the months and years have passed, it became something of a bucket list item. And now, on this cold, rainy Sunday morning, I stand here freezing in my running shorts and tech shirt at the northern end of Napa Valley. A inflated red arch stands 15-feet above the starting line, over which 3,000 runners will soon pass as the marathon gets under way. 

With a rendition of the national anthem and a countdown from five, we are off. As I pass under the arch, a cold wind and light rain foreshadow the conditions I will run in this morning. I feel strong this morning, but 26.2 miles is a very long way to run. As I pass the first aid station, I take a small glass of water from a cheering volunteer. Traffic has been blocked off for most of the way and we, the runners, spread out across both lanes of Silverado Trail. 

As the sun rises over the vineyards, we push on towards the distant finish line. Everyone is friendly and supportive of each other. For being here and doing this difficult thing, is instant membership to the club. As I've gotten more and more into running, I've learned of this brotherhood, the 26.2 Club for lack of a better name, and if I can just push myself a few more miles, I can join.

The aid stations are well-staffed and offer a variety of hydration and refueling options. Spaced at approximately every two-mile mark, I take advantage of water, gatorade, bananas, goo, and whatever else will help me maintain an energy level conducive to running a marathon. 

Training in Reno at 4'000 feet has helped my endurance and I don't really ever get winded maintaining my 10-minute/mile pace, but as I pass the 13-mile mark, I can feel my knee starting to throb. At 15-miles, the pain is substantial and I have to walk for a bit. Unfortunately, the remainder of the race will be a combination of walking and running as I pressure my knee more and more and push through the pain. I know as I get older this will simply get worse and worse, but today I'm strong and I will cross that finish line. 

Eventually, I hear the loudspeakers from the finish line celebration. The sound and perhaps moreso, the knowledge that I am close inspire me to run. It hurts, but not finishing strong would hurt more and for far longer. I can see it now, the blue arch that welcomes the weary and exhausted runners home. I make the turn and stretch out my stride until finally, I am there. I am at the finish line. I am a marathoner!

For me, it is an accomplishment, but as I catch my breath from my final sprint to the finish line, I am witness to an even more important event for a young couple. A woman who finished just behind me is greeted by a young man taking one knee and producing an engagement ring. She is too winded to respond, but gives an emphatic nod 'yes' as the two embrace. What a site to witness. I shake the young couple's hands and wish them well. Classy move, my friend - very classy!

Coyote Peak (Napa County, California)

For my second hike of the day, I chose to visit the Bothe-Napa State Park, just south of Calistoga. The light rain has persisted, but I really want to get some miles in today and so I've decided to hike up Coyote Peak within the Park. The peak rises 1,170 feet above sea level and is said to offer outstanding views of the vineyard-covered hills of Napa Valley. Unfortunately, the dense fog will probably keep those views hidden today.

Parking the jeep, I head up the trail, which follows Ritchey Creek through the lush woods. The sound of running water in a creek and over small falls is always soothing to me, and placed here in this sea of green moss-covered trees and rocks, it is just a reminder of how amazing life can be.

The trails here are in much better condition than those at Skyline Adventure Park, which I visited immediately before coming here. Perhaps the state park budget allows better maintenance. Either way, it is a pleasant hike. As I continue up the shallow canyon, I eventually reach a signed fork indicating Coyote Peak to the left and make the turn.

More rich greens and damp earth conditions greet me as the trail climbs gently up the hillside. It is only just before the peak that it gets steep at all. As I reach the final section leading to the summit, a formation of rock must be navigated and in these slippery conditions, it will require some care. A family is making their way down and apologize for delaying me, but as I tell them, I would much rather they make it down safely, which they do. I quickly scramble up the rock and arrive at the top of Coyote Peak. The views are . . . well, the views of of nothing more than fog-covered hillsides in the distance. I do suspect the view from here would be outstanding on a less wet day, but California badly needs the water and so, I won't complain.

I head back down the way I came and rejoin the trail. Heading further up the canyon, but down the hillside, I confirm with a passing couple that this trail rejoins the main trail below. The rain is getting heavier now and I throw my poncho on to try and preserve some sort of dryness. It helps a bit.

After a couple of easy creek crossings, I arrive at another fork and decide to extend the hike just a bit, but returning on the Vineyard Trail, which as I will soon discover passes by a couple of small vineyards as it winds through the woods and back to the trail head. This trail was about 4.8 miles, raising my daily total to just over 7 miles for the day. I think that will suffice, as I have a lot of running to do tomorrow and a couple of wineries to visit this afternoon. I would like to return here on a day where the fog opens up to those wonderful views I read about.

Lower Skyline Trail (Napa County, California)

Visiting Napa Valley for the weekend, I wanted to get a little hiking in. Originally, I had planned to hike to Zim Zam falls, but with the wet weather forecast, I decided to stick a little closer to civilization. I'll visit the falls another time . . . a dryer time.

Heading to Napa's Skyline Adventure Park, just on the southeastern outskirts of town, I had to contend with a long line of cars entering the park. Apparently, there is a disc golf tournament this morning. When I finally found the trail-head and parked, it was an interesting maze through some fenced off areas before reaching the foot of the hills into which the trails climb.

The ground is soft with the overnight rains and a thick fog fills the air, but I couldn't let that stop me. The trails are well marked and are a mix of soft earth and exposed stones. I only encounter a couple of other hikers along the way as I follow a couple of switch-backs up the hills towards the fork where the Lower Skyline Trail breaks off from the longer Skyline Trail. As I want to hit another hike in the valley this morning, I'm only opting to do the former. 

As I reach the fork, another side trail leads off towards a broken stone wall. I wander over for a peek anticipating a cliff of some sort, but it turns out to be just more fog-covered rolling hills. Beautiful in it's own right, but nothing spectacular.

The trails in many places here have taken some pretty harsh damage from mount backs, as witnessed, by the deep ruts carved into the hillside. I wish park officials would address this better.

As I continue back towards the trail head, I am greeted by small friend. A small reddish newt has crawled out of the moist grass to pose for me. Upon later research, I believe he was a rough-skinned newt, indigenous to Northern California. He was cute little guy. I took a couple of pictures and let him continue on his journey.

Arriving back at the trail head, I pack up and head for my second destination a few miles North. This short trail was only about 2.3 miles, but I'll add to that with my next stop.