Reno-Tahoe Odyssey 2019 (Lake Tahoe, Nevada and California)

Another Year; another RTO. I hadn't originally planned on running the Reno-Tahoe Odyssey this year, but the amazing people on my team needed an additional runner and I couldn't resist. It's an amazing event and my teammates are some of the best people I know. How could I refuse? I wasn't able to attend any of the pre-race events such as the practice runs or van decorating due to other commitments, but I know how easy it is to jump in and meet the new members of the team. This year, I was assigned the runner 2 position, giving me legs 2, 14, and 26 to complete. Legs 2 and 26 are listed as moderate, while 14 climbs up to Emerald Bay on the southern end of Lake Tahoe and is listed as one of the most difficult legs.

This year, we got a slightly earlier start time at 7:30 AM, as opposed to previous years when we started after 8:00 AM in most cases. This is good in that it will allow us to finish a bit earlier and hopefully, avoid some of the heat. Although the forecast is calling for warm (not hot) temperatures, anything above seventy-five degrees on Saturday afternoon is brutal. Additionally, finishing earlier, allows more time to enjoy what remains of the weekend.

The team met at Ali's (Van 1 captain) home in Sparks at 6:00 AM and we started loading up the vans. Several of our runners met last night to pick up the vans and decorate them with our trademark rainbow flashing lights and markers to give our two 15-passenger cargo vans that Nice Asphalt (our team name) character. I hadn't paid full attention to everyone that was on the team during the text conversations we had been having over the last couple of weeks, but I was a little surprised to learn that we have some very common names. In fact, we have two runners named Ali, two named Liz, and three named Mike (one of which is me). To celebrate this rather funny coincidence, someone wrote a hashtag on the van "#12runners8names", which I personally thought was pretty hilarious.

As the 24-ish runners that compromise the double-team of Nice Asphalt and Nice Asphalt II (a couple of people were going to meet us later in the day), start loading up supplies, food, personal effects, etc. onto their respective vans, I get the opportunity to meet the new runners that have joined the teams this year. All of them are friendly and seem like great additions. This core team, Nice Asphalt, has been around for eight or nine years now and has grown into a large family. This is my fourth year running with the team and I'm lucky to have found such a great group of people. RTO teams are normally comprised of twelve runners, who each run three legs along the 178-mile route. Nice Asphalt is actually a double team. We technically run two complete RTO routes simultaneously, which means that every runner has a partner. There are several advantages to this, not the least of which is having company to embrace the pain with on the more challenging and on the night-time legs. It does mean more sweaty, stinky people in the van though, but that's part of what the RTO is all about.

Once all of the gear was loaded, we packed ourselves into the van. My buddy, Mike (yes, another one) normally drives and I generally navigate for him, and then drive while he runs his legs. Everyone is in good spirits and I tell the team they should take a deep breath of the fresh air inside the cabin, as it will only go downhill from here. The two vans make their way to Wingfield Park along the Truckee River in downtown Reno, where the starting line festivities are under way. The relay race is organized in such a way that most teams will finish in or around a four hour window on Saturday afternoon. To accomplish this, team start times are assigned based upon their projected time necessary to run the 178-mile course. This means slower teams, such as ours, start earlier in the day, while faster teams, will start later. This has a number of logistical advantages for the race organizers. It also means the celebration at the end can be attended by more people.

After taking a few starting line pictures, our first two runners Ren and Heather, line up with other teams starting at the same time as us. Eric, the director of the event, announces each of the teams in turn, and then with countdown from 10, our odyssey has begun. Last year, I was runner one and had the honor of starting off the event and so, I know this first part of the course pretty well. While our runners make their way along the river, we load ourselves back into van 1, wish van 2 well ad they head off to relax for a few hours, and begin follow our runners to provide whatever support they may need along their journey - water, clothing, energy snacks, etc.

As our first two runners get within roughly a half-mile of the exchange point, van 1 parks and Mike (the third Mike) and I start stretching and prepare to run our leg 2. In the true spirit of the event, Ren and Heather skip their way to the finish line and slap the wrist bracelet (baton) onto Mike and I's respective wrist. Suddenly, we're off. Mike's pretty fast and while I've been training hard this year and met some personal time goals, I've been running at lower elevations and on mostly flat courses. It takes me the first mile and a half or so to find my groove, but once I get it, I'm feeling pretty good. By this point though, Mike has opened up a pretty good lead on me. I encounter the van a couple of times and my teammates cheer both of us on and offer water, but I'm in the zone now and want to finish my leg. The only section that gives me trouble is a short, but steep uphill right alongside I-80, but once past this, I cruise into the next exchange point. Having finished my 4.5 miles at a high-nine minute pace, I pass the 'baton' off to Ali and Liz as they start leg 3.

We rotate runners like this through the first six legs. About the time we start leg 4, we text van 2 and provide an approximate time for the van swap. As our runners 6 near the area south of the Boca Reservoir, our two vans and all twenty-four runners find parking in the incredibly crowded lot. All van exchanges (6-7, 12-13,18-19,24-25, and 30-31). It's amazing to see all of the large white passenger vans and the thousands of people at the exchanges. The event organizers normally provide music and some cases food. At this exchange, they have a taco kitchen set up and hundreds of people take advantage of it. It's a very party-like atmosphere and everyone is in good spirits. The temperatures thus far couldn't have been better, ranging from about 45 degrees this morning to about 65 now.

After we trade out with the other van, and see their runners 7 off, we (van 1) head to a campground lodge that one of our teammates shares in. We used this facility last year as well. It's a nice relaxing community center with TV's couches, and conveniently, shower rooms. Mike and a couple others comment how unaccustomed to showering during RTO they are and feel they are being spoiled by the planning logistics of this team. They're happy to have this problem. As for me, I've only ever run with Nice Asphalt and so, I've only known this level of organization, but I certainly do appreciate the efforts our captains put in to make this event such a success.

After stuffing our faces and taking turns in the shower facilities, we try to relax for the short time we have. We have a total time of about three and a half hours, but it goes by fast. I find a couch in an adjoining room and doze off for an hour or so. It's not long though before we get word from van 2 that they are an hour or so away from the next van exchange. With that, we start packing up and getting ready to meet them at Homewood on the western shore of Lake Tahoe. It's about a twenty-five minute drive from the campground and we need to get moving pretty quickly, but it was still nice to have a break, brief as it was.

Mike pulls the big beast of a van into a gravel lot at Homewood just as the Sun begins to dip below the mountains behind Homewood. As with the last van exchange, there are hundreds of people here and the crowd's mood is still one of excitement. As our runners approach the exchange, I feel a few rain drops, which cause a bit of concern. Running at night, in the rain, at 6,800' elevation would not be ideal, but I brought a poncho just in case. With the bracelet exchange, Ren and Heather are off again. Our team tries to make a game of the whole event and to help with that, our captains put together a photo-scavenger hunt. We try to knock out a few of the items while supporting our runners. One of the challenges is to recreate the iconic cover of the Beatles White Album. At one point, we find a crosswalk that will suit our purposes and line in Beatles style for the photo. It's all a lot of fun.

The rain is holding off during leg 13, but shortly after the exchange and while Mike and I are making our way up the brutal leg 14 (listed as one of the most difficult sections) towards Emerald Bay, the dark clouds finally give way and it begins to rain. It's not a heavy rain, but steady. Before starting my run, I had prepped my poncho in the van and next time I see my teammates, I ask them for it. Our vans are always easy to see along the route, as we sort of pioneered the idea of rainbow lights on the outside of the vans, which has been copied by many other teams over the years. I see the lights in the lights in the distance and once I reach them, I put the lightweight plastic poncho, which is not much more than a garbage bag with a hood and arm slits, over my head. So here I am, with a headlamp, a flashing wrist band, a blue rain poncho, running up hill in the dark. It must have been an amusing sight to see, but I'm actually pretty glad I had the poncho, as I would have been pretty cold 6.7 miles out here without it in the rain.

It's very dark by the time Mike and reach the next exchange and hand off to Ali and Liz again. So far, we've got about 15 'kills' between us. Kills translate to runners passed along the course. Some teams make a big deal about it. We don't, but it's still nice to know that we aren't the slowest runners out there. We continue to support our runners through the next four legs, but the exhaustion and sleep-deprivation are starting to show. By the time, we reach Raley's in South Lake Tahoe for the next van exchange, we're all pretty tired. Somehow it got out that today is my birthday and Katie from van 2 went into the Starbucks here, which stays open all night for the event, to get me a cake-pop for my birthday. It was very thoughtful, but I want to wait a bit to eat it, since I'm going to try to get a short nap at our next stop.

Those of us in Van 1 see our runners start leg 19 and then we head off to Carson City. We've reserved three rooms at the Marriott and while we still won't have much time before the next van exchange at leg 24-25, our hotel is less than a mile from the exchange point. It's around 2 AM when we get checked in, but that's the perfect time for a quick shower and an hour or so of nap time. When Ali calls my cell to let me know it's time to head out to the exchange point, I mistakenly think it is my alarm click in my groggy state and hang up on her. I quickly realize the sad truth though and stir my teammates scattered about the room. We quickly pack up and reload our gear and ourselves into the van.

It's not quite sunrise when we reach the Walmart parking lot, where the exchange point is, but there is enough light to see clearly, though it is very, very cold. I suspect it's just my body reacting to loosing the nice warm bed I had been in mere minutes ago. Ren and Heather get ready and as our runners 12 turn the corner and make the exchange, once again, we're off. We wish Van 2 well and begin our next set of six legs which will take us all the way into Virginia City.

When it's time for Mike and I to go again, for leg 26, the sun has now climbed over the eastern mountains and it's beginning to warm up just a touch. Though I'm exhausted, I'm feeling pretty strong this morning. I decide to try and keep up with Mike on this leg. I think he accommodated me by slowing down a little bit, but either way I manage to hang with him for the entire leg. I've actually been pretty excited about this one, as it takes a detour to allow us to run right past the Nevada State Capitol building, which I think is pretty cool. As we approach the other Walmart in Carson City at the end of our 5.2 mile leg, I think to myself how glad I am to have my running done for the event. I think Mike feels the same way, as he crosses the exchange line and immediately heads into the store. I had assumed he was wanting to use the restroom, which he may have done, but in true Nice Asphalt style, he returns with a 12-pack of Pacifico Lager. I don't care that it's 7:00 AM or that it's a very cheaply made beer, it tastes damn fine this morning.

As before, we support our runners through the next legs, the final three of which are pretty brutal as they climb up into the Virginia Range towards silver country. Some of my teammates show their true strength as they destroy these steep hills. The other Ali and Liz (running leg 29) estimated it would take them an hour and a half, as the course is very steep and they are not very experienced runners. I tell them, I suspect it will take them no more than an hour and fifteen and even that is being generous. It's getting hot and we do our best to keep them hydrated. Ali, who is running her first organized race today, get sick on the way up, but shows her character when she pushes on, even though many of us are ready and willing to hop out and take some of her miles for her. She's a strong lady and I'm proud of her. When they finally reach the exchange, only fifty-four minutes have passed. Ali and Liz both bust into tears of pride and accomplishment. They've just completed their legs of the RTO. Way to go ladies!!

As Mike and Nick, our runners 6, make their way up the most difficult part of this section of the race, we head into Virginia City, where van 2 is patiently awaiting us in front of the Bucket of Blood Saloon - a fitting place for the exchange. We hand off and now with our van 1 legs completed, we head into the saloon for some well-deserved adult refreshment. It's packed in here, as all the teams have the same idea, but we manage to find a table big enough for the twelve of us. After a couple of cold beers, we're on our way back into Reno. We decide to stop at the Sunrise Cafe and load our gullets with a big breakfast.

Before our food gets out, Ali gets a call from van 2. There's trouble. Apparently, they have accidentally knocked over a stop sign and must wait for the police to arrive and take the report. That wouldn't be a huge deal, but it means the van 2 runners are stuck and can't get to their next exchange points. Ali foregoes breakfast and takes the van to save the day. Not being able to do much to help, the rest of us finish our breakfast and then walk over to a nearby Starbucks, where we crash for a short time. After an hour or so, Ali returns to pick us up. Van 2 is back on the road and from here on out, we begin double van support of our runners. It's the hottest part of the day and we need to keep them cool.

We continue leapfrogging the two vans offering cool water and spray-downs to our active runners through the last few legs of the race. Finally, about a mile from the finish line, we leave them and find a parking spot at Idlewild Park in downtown Reno. Mike is somehow able to squeeze this big van into a parallel spot not far from the finish line. We quickly hop out of the van and make our way to the end of the course. As a tradition, we try to have all of our runners cross the finish line together, with the active runners leading the way. As Zo and Tosh approach, we take off, but they aren't satisfied cruising in and begin to sprint for the finish. We do our best to keep up and finally Nice Asphalt has completed another Reno-Tahoe Odyssey. Way to go team.

We grab our finish-line beer, our finishers' medals, and then line up under the arch for our picture to be taken. It's been another great year with the best team in the world. 178 miles completed (twice). I'm so happy to be part of this team and I am grateful they allow me to run with them year-after-year. We say our goodbyes and thank Jamie and Ali for all of their hard work in organizing the event, and then we load back into the vans and head for Ali's house. We have to quickly clean up and unpack the vans to get the back to the rental company. It should take longer than the hour or so we have to get all of that done, but it's amazing what a little teamwork can accomplish. See you next year Nice Asphalt!!!

Avenue of the Vines Half-Marathon (San Joaquin County, California)

I've run a lot of half-marathons this year. In fact, today will be my sixth for the year and the third in the last 30 days. I learned of Avenue of the Vines from my friend, Chris, who is a fearsome runner and decided to join me on this trip, though he was running the 5k, while I wanted to run the half. We left one of Reno's premier beer events, Strange Brew, and drove down to Lodi, CA early Saturday evening. Chris has marveled on how well I run after beer festivals. Lets hope it holds true for this one. I was careful to not drink too much, as I'm hoping for a new personal record on this run. The drive to Lodi takes about two and a half hours, but we arrive around ten o'clock and quickly get checked in. 

Though I wake to my alarm at about 5:15, I was still able to get a pretty good night's sleep. Chris and I quickly get ready for the race. We need check-in and get our bibs before the run and we want to allow plenty of time. It's cool this morning, around 50 degrees, and its supposed to rain later this morning, but hopefully, it will hold off until I finish the half.

Chris goes for a warm-up and I start to stretch my legs. The half-marathon is scheduled to start at 7:00 AM and the 5k at 7:15 AM. As the start time approaches, I strip off my long sleeve zip-up and get into the corral. Due to the police taking a little bit longer than expected to get barricades up, we start about seven minutes late, but with a countdown and a call for a gun, that never sounds, we're off. 

Lodi is Zinfandel country (arguable the best in the world) and the race course travels through and around some of the famous vineyards. Woodbridge Winery, which was started by Robert Mondavi, is one of the primary sponsors of the event. The race starts and ends at their tasting room.

The course is almost completely flat and with the temperature being just about perfect, I'm really feeling hopeful for a good time this morning. I start out really strong and over the first five or six miles, end up passing a number of the other runners. At one point, we pass through some areas that are home to cattle. The air is thick with the smell of manure . . . it's almost overwhelming, and I'm forced to cough a few times as we pass through.

I end up using the port-o-potty at mile five and then return to my pace. At around mile six, the wind starts blowing harder and a light mist starts falling on us. I certainly won't overheat today, but as long as the rain stays at this level, we'll be good. As we continue on, the rain starts falling faster and harder. The wind starts gusting and after a right turn, I'm now running directly into a headwind. I think to myself that my chances of a PR today are shrinking fast. I continue pushing myself though.

By mile 8, I'm soaking wet from head to toe and with the gusty winds, I'm freezing. I consider just walking the rest of the way. I debate back and forth in my head, but finally, decide that if nothing else, running the rest of the way will keep me far warmer than walking would. My glasses are covered with water, which makes visibility really tough. I could remove them, but since my sunglasses are prescription to help my distance vision, I would be in just as bad of shape without them. 

As I run through the mile-11 aid station, I hear a friendly voice asking if I want a rain poncho. Chris has long since finished his race and run back out to pace me in to the finish. I take a minute to get the poncho on. It's tough, as my hands are cold and not want to work very well. One of the volunteers helps me separate it and I finally slip it over my torso. If nothing else, it will break the wind for me. 

As we start back out, I push myself. I'm fading fast, but Chris encourages me on. My breathing is labored, but I'm determined now. He mentions that I'm still on pace to break the two-hour mark, which also means, I've still got a shot at a PR. It was awesome of Chris to run back out to bring me in. I ask about how his race went. He won it, lol. Not his age group, but the whole race. This guy is phenomenal and what I do shouldn't even be called 'running' in comparison to him.

As we approach the finish line, Chris tapers off to the side and I force myself through the arch. . . oops, the arch was taken out by the wind. I cross the finish line regardless. The clock was not showing 2-hours yet and so, I must have broken that mark. After catching my breath, I head over to check my official time - 1:59:33. It's not a PR (I ran Napa less than a minute faster two months ago), but considering the weather challenges, I'm extremely happy with this time. We get back just in time for Chris to accept his prize for winning the 5k, a case of Woodbridge Wine, specifically made for this event. The Avenue of the Vines Zinfandel, which we get to taste at the finish line, is outstanding. Chris gives me three bottles from his case and we head back to the hotel to get dry. What a great day!!

Rochester Rock Art Panel (Emery County, Utah)

My final stop along this journey takes me about an hour out of the way to the Rochester Rock Art Panel. I only learned of this panel of petroglyphs a few months ago, but reading of how extensive the panel is, I felt I need to visit the next time I was planning to be anywhere nearby. Leaving the highway, it's a short drive down a gravel road to a gravel parking area. Signs indicate this is the right place.

Being in the absolute middle of nowhere, I'm surprised to see another visitor returning to the car as I start down the trail. He tells me how awe-inspiring the panel is before he heads out. The trail leads part of the way down into a dry river canyon and then climbs back up a tall cliff-side above the canyon. As I turn the corner, I make my way along narrow path with a steep drop-off, but finally see the panel.

This is one of the most decorated petroglyph panels I have ever seen. There are hundreds of figures on this panel and many of them are quite detailed. From humanoid figures to a large rainbow-like image, this panel truly is amazing. It was a long drive to get here, but I feel it was well worth it.

Chimney Rock Loop (Capitol Reef National Park, Utah)

My next and final hike inside Capitol Reef National Park takes me to Chimney Rock, which is a pillar-like escarpment a couple of miles west of the turn-off to Fruit Campground. Arriving at the parking lot around 8:00 AM, there are only a couple of other cars here. I always appreciate a less-crowded trail. It's nice to be able to experience these idealistic and scenic places without the crowds. 

Leaving the parking lot, the trail passes around Chimney Rock before heading up a very steep trail to the top of the escarpment. I catch up with an elderly couple that had left the parking lot a few minutes before me and we discuss the better option for the loop. They decide to travel clockwise, while I go counter-clockwise. The upwards climb is pretty unrelenting here, but the views are absolutely breathtaking. 

As I arrive at the top of the escarpment, I'm welcomed with some views for Chimney Rock from a different angle. I snap a few more shots and move on. From there Chimney Rock itself will not be visible again until I return on the other side of the loop. The trail continues on around and at one point, I have an unbelievable view of a canyon cut by the Fremont River just south of there. There is even an overlook area, which the park service built a road to, but I can't imagine the view from way down there comes even close to the view before me from a few hundred feet above.

I continue on around and meetup with the couple I met earlier. The gentleman comments that we must be on the right track, before we wish each other well and continue on our respective paths. 

As the trail wraps around the plateau to the north side, more amazing desert views open up of an amazing red sandstone canyon with cliffs reaching for the sky. The tones of red and orange evoke thoughts of flames. The beauty of this place is truly divine. I'm very lucky to have a career and a family that allows me the freedom to visit such places. I hope each and every one of you are able to see some of these sites.

Finally arriving back at the jeep, I check my mileage, which sits at about 3.7 miles for this trail. I'm sad to leave this amazing place, but there are many other wonders out there to see and I will treasure every moment I'm able to spend in these amazing places. Carpe Diem!

Hickman Natural Bridge (Capitol Reef National Park, Utah)

After returning to Fruita Campground in Capitol Reef National Park and getting a good night's sleep (after enjoying a few beers and dinner over the campfire, of course), I wake early and start packing up my gear. I'm returning home today, but not before getting in a few more hikes and checking out more of this park. The first on my list starts just a mile or so east of the turn for the campground. As sunrise was only about half an hour ago, there is no one else here at the trailhead for the Hickman Natural Bridge.

The trail starts by running parallel to the Fremont River and the highway, while slowly climbing the side of the red cliff. Eventually, the the trail switches back at a break in the cliff wall to head into the canyon beyond and leaves the river behind. The landscape here is breathtaking, as beautiful as any desert landscape I have ever laid eyes on. The red and yellow stone monoliths surrounding me inspire a sense of awe. This truly is a magnificent place.

For a bit,  the trail gets steep, as it pushes over another ridge and then descends into a sandy wash below. At the head of that wash, I encounter two small natural bridges. I'm unsure if this is Hickman, as I hadn't seen any pictures before visiting, but as the trail continues on around, it seems unlikely that these are the destination of the trail. They are stunning though. Two stone bridges rising in parallel over the sandy, dry wash below could have provided shelter to two or three families, until the rains came, at which time, I imagine the same waters that carved these formations would have flooded this entire wash and driven any inhabitants out. 

Leaving the wash, the trail now heads toward a tall white canyon wall. The rocks on south side have hints of pigment, as if some ancient visitors created some rock art here, but they are so faded as to leave substantial doubt in my mind as to whether it is truly human-placed or not. I decide to move on. After just a few dozen more yards, I encounter a crude map on a sign, which indicates a loop through the natural bridge, which is indicated to be to my right. 

As I make the turn, the gigantic feature comes into site. Approximately seventy feet above the trail the gigantic white arch leaves the southern cliff-side, spans a distance of roughly 40 yards, before connecting to the northern cliff. It's stunning and the trail pass just below it, offering some fantastic views. I take a few pictures and then pass under the arch and around the loop on which I came into this area. Eventually, I arrive back at my jeep after having hiked 1.8 miles out and back to reach the wonder. The effort was well rewarded.

Courtyard Wash Rock Art Panel (Arches National Park, Utah)

 

I've visited Moab, UT and the nearby Arches National Park five or six times over the years. It's an amazing place, full of natural wonders and many corners to explore. Speaking with Ranger Juliette during my tour of the Fiery Furnace this morning, I was shocked to learn of an extensive rock art panel just outside the park. The site is well documented and she provides me with some basic directions. After leaving the park, I head back out and find the pull-off she described.

From here, I have to follow the paved bike path a little ways and cross over the Courtyard Wash, which is full of flowing water this time of year. A dirt trail then drops down from the highway to the eastern side of the wash. The trail then leads up a steep ridge and on the red sandstone panel above me, a truly amazing pictograph panel comes into view. A sign indicates that the site was vandalized about forty years ago and that the park service did their best to restore the panel, but the colors could not be returned to their former vividness. Still, this is the most extensive and amazing pictograph panel that I have seen in my travels.

I climb up a little ways further to get a better look. The panel includes a number of humanoid representations, some of which might have been intended to be spirits. Some are holding large unknown objects. The images are painted in shades of red, orange, and white and though faded by the sun and the vandals, are remarkable visible. I take advantage of Dstretch to enhance them a bit. This is an amazing site and I'm truly shocked that I was completely unaware of it until now, as it literally overlooks the main highway into Moab. I'm glad I made the trip to visit it though.

Ribbon Arch (Arches National Park, Utah)

Prior to leaving for this trip, I had been researching any trails in Arches National Park I had not hiked on past trips. One that stuck out was the trail to Ribbon Arch, which is on the back side of the Windows Arches complex on the eastern side of the park. I've visited that section in the past, but wasn't aware of this other arch, though it shouldn't be a surprise, as Arches National Park is home to more than two thousand stone arches.

To start the hike, I had to park in the lower area and then make my way up to and through the North Window Arch. This is a very large and popular arch, as it is only a couple of hundred yards from the parking area. Visitors often picnic under the immense stone structure marveling at nature's creation. From there, I drop down a steep trail onto the backside of the cliff which contains Windows Arch. There is a well worn trail in this section, but it's nice to leave the pavement and crowds to enter the open desert.

Circling around a large outcropping and then climbing up and over a small ridge through a broad passage, the trail drops down into another stone 'bay'. At the head of the bay, another arch rises from the canyon wall. Is this Ribbon Arch? It looks quite different than the pictures I have seen. It isn't the one I'm looking for and I'm not sure of the name of this one, but it is fairly striking.

From this point on, the trail, if one exists, is extremely tough to find. The ground here is rich with cryptobiotic soil and I'm extremely careful to stay to the rocks or game trails that I find so as not to destroy the organisms at work. I delicately make my way down to the wash at the bottom of this small canyon and then climb up the wave-like sandstone on the far side, which skirts another outcropping. It's pretty steep in places, but I'm able to make my way around it without too much difficulty. The hiking shoes I have been wearing for the past few years, Merrell's Cham Shifts, have a particular tread pattern that lacks parallel surfaces. Over the years, I've come to thoroughly respect this shoe's ability to stick to dry granite and or sandstone, which makes it ideal for 90% of my hikes. I'm currently wearing my third pair and recently purchased my fourth, which are just waiting for their time.

Continuing around the skirt of rock, I make my way into the next canyon, but still see no sign of Ribbon Arch. According to the map, it should right in my field of vision at this point, but I scan the rocks in front of me and see nothing. Unwilling to give up just yet, I head back out into the open desert, again being very careful with my step placement. Finally, when I reach the center of this 'bay', I note a small spec of blue poking through the red wall of stone. At the very top, the plateau if you will, a small, thin arch of rock exposes the bright blue sky behind it. There it is. That's the arch I've seen in the pictures. Without climbing gear, I don't think there is anyway to reach the base of this arch and so I'm forced to settle for some pictures from far below. The arch itself is a very thin slab of rock, but from this distance (100+ yards away), I can't really quantify that. It juts out of a rock on the north side extends straight a few feet and then takes a sharp 30-ish degree turn before reconnecting to the rock face on the south. From this vantage point, it's impossible to see exactly how far the arch stretches, but it's still a very impressive natural construct.

After taking a few pictures of the wonder, I make my way back to the trail head, pretty much the way I came, all the while doing my absolute best to 'Leave No Trace' and not damage the fragile ecosystem with my intrusion. Checking my GPS tracking app, I see I hiked right at 3.2 miles to reach the arch and return. Perhaps not as impressive as some of the other arches in the park, including some of those very nearby it, but it does have a unique character with the sharp turn. Ribbon Arch was a less-visited, but worthy destination for this trip.

Wolfe Ranch Petroglyphs (Arches National Park, Utah)

 

While spending the day in Arches National Park, I decided to visit and hike a few areas that I haven't seen on past visits. Wolfe Ranch is near the trailhead to the view point for the Delicate Arch. The modest ranch was built in the 1880's by a civil war veteran and his eldest son. While the ranch is interesting, of more interest to me is the nearby petroglyph panel. Round trip, the hike from the parking lot to the panel is only about 0.6 miles, but it's well worth the effort. 

As I get older, my memory gets worse and as I walk towards the panel, I seem to remember being here at some point in the past. This is fifth or sixth trip to Arches and I must have visited this panel on a past visit, but I didn't remember the name. No worries though, it's a very nice panel, which was obviously made sometime after the 1600's, as some of the images are of riders on horseback. As we know this didn't happen until after the earlier explorers reached the new world and their horses escaped, it's reasonable to say the images were created sometime afterwards.

Fiery Furnace (Arches National Park, Utah)

An hour or so before sunrise, I awoke from a restful night's sleep in Fruita Campground and started getting ready for my next adventure on this trip - a guided tour of the Fiery Furnace in Arches National Park. It's about a two hour drive from the campground in Capitol Reef National Park to the visitor's center at Arches, where I'm required to check in for my reservation for the tour and so, I wanted to get an early start.

I've visited Arches National Park a few times in the past and always wanted to explore the maze-like area known as the Fiery Furnace. To enter this area though, you must either reserve a guided ranger-lead tour or get lucky enough to get one of the seventy-five wilderness permits available each day. Not wanting to risk the drive only to be turned away, I opted to make a reservation for the guided tour some months ago, which worked out well in the larger scope of my weekend trip to Capitol Reef.

After checking in and quickly going through some illustrations of the physical challenges required to travel through the maze of red sandstone, I hop back in the jeep and drive the thirty or so minutes into the park, arriving at the trailhead about twenty minutes before start of the tour. I spend a few minutes getting my pack in order and using the restroom. 

Eventually, I notice Ranger Juliette standing by the entrance trail into the Fiery Furnace. I walk up and introduce myself and show her my pass. She welcomes me and asks me to put the pass on the jeep's dash. I return to the group of twelve explorers that is now forming around the ranger and we do a quick round of introductions before heading off into the canyon. Juliette does her best to caution everyone again of the physical challenges required, but everyone nods their acceptance and we head into the maze.

The first section, while the easiest part of the tour, is still quite steep and requires some maneuvering. One gentlemen in our group wipes out, but luckily only hurts his pride. Continuing on to a small open section, the Ranger begins giving us an overview of the tour and we head into the rougher terrain. As we travel along, she mentions the Leave No Trace principles and even discusses cryptobiotic soils within the area and how we should step carefully to avoid damaging them. It's great to hear this and I mention to her my own training in Leave No Trace.

As we continue on, the discussion moves to the topic of wilderness areas and what they means to each of us. She has even prepared some discussion generating activities, which I greatly appreciate. She's obviously passionate about this ideas, as am I, but I love the fact that she is sharing and educating the group as we pass through such a place of wonder.

As we continue on, we encounter a number of tight squeezes and steep climbs. There are few places where we must jump across short distances from one cliff or boulder to another. In one of the more challenging areas, we are even forced to stem our bodies to pass through. This requires bracing ourselves against two opposing walls and using the pressure to prevent ourselves from slipping while we slowly move forward. It's not overly challenging, but certainly provides a great and fun experience.

Along the way, we encounter a couple of arches, including Skull Arch, which really does resemble a skull. Finally, reaching the last rest area, we take a few minutes to enjoy some water and snacks. I ask about rock art in the area and Juliette explains that the evidence indicates that Native Americans passed through this area, but likely did not live here for any length of time.

As we make our way out of the canyon, Juliette tells us to look upwards and we are shocked to see another large arch crossing a span above our heads. This is Surprise Arch and it is appropriately named, as it was quite a surprise to see it there. I thank the Ranger for her time and dedication to these things, which I care so much about and then return to the jeep. The tour was about 4.1 miles total, but that number may be off a little bit as GPS reception in the slot canyons of this maze of sandstone is not super reliable. This was a great experience and I hope to visit again someday, perhaps exploring on my own.

Capitol Gorge Trail (Capitol Reef National Park, Utah)

 

Before setting up camp for my first night in Capitol Reef National Park, I wanted to get in a hike. The Capitol Gorge Trail seemed like a good choice, as the trailhead is only a few miles from Fruita Campground. After driving a couple of miles down the scenic road, a left turn onto a gravel road and into the wider part of the gorge leads to the trailhead. 

While this is one of the lesser known national parks, this particular trail doesn't seem to be much of a secret. There are a lot of cars parked here at the trailhead. As this trail is only a few miles out and back, I decide to just take my camera and a bottle of water. It's surprisingly cool, around 70 degrees, in this canyon and I'm not expecting any craziness, as there is only one possible route.

Immediately after leaving the trailhead, I find a few Native American petroglyphs on the northern canyon wall. I also begin seeing a number of names and dates carved into the red sandstone. As I understand it, the Mormon settlers of this area passed through this area and even this specific canyon. They often left their names on something of a 'pioneer register' to note when they passed through. Unlike much modern graffiti, most of these names were painstakingly carved with substantial attention to detail in the fonts used. 
In one section, there is a list of five names carved high upon the wall along with the date 1911. The individuals responsible for this entry into the register would have had to repel from the top to even reach this panel. That's a lot of trouble just to leave one's mark. It's interesting to see marks of these two cultures separated by perhaps a thousand years in such close proximity. Perhaps it gives some insight into what inspired these ancient and historic artists. 

As I continue down the wash, I scan the sides of the canyon for further panels, and while I see a few names here and there, there are few other large panels. I do note what appears to be a large stone ridge with a possible overhang at the top on the north side of the canyon. Though it is a very steep climb to get to the top of the ridge, I decide to give it a go and upon reaching the top, I'm extremely glad I did.

On this ridge, I first find a large petroglyph panel, the best examples I've seen so far today. The figures are somewhat strange and much different than those I often see further west. The humanoid figures wear elaborate costumes. It's really a stunning panel, but looking to my right, I'm surprised to see signs of something even more unexpected.

Under the overhang, there appears to be a collapsed wall, which would have provided the exterior wall of a ancient shelter. I'm not an expert, but I believe these are the remains of a cliff dwelling. While the area between the floor and the overhang would have required squatting to move around, I can imagine this spot providing a great shelter from the elements when the wall was in tact. This is an amazing find.

After dropping back down into the gorge, I come across a nice couple that asks if I have been here before. Of course I haven't, but they go on to explain they visited this trail about twenty-five years ago and remember a specifically panel of pioneer names, which they are trying to find. I haven't noticed anything like their description and they consider that it may have been in a different canyon in the park. 

I wish them well and head further up the canyon, but after only a couple of hundred yards, I encounter a barbed wire fence stretched across the wash. Referring to my location, I determine this to be the boundary of the national park. I decide to return to the trailhead. Arriving back at the jeep, see I've hiked about 5.2 miles along this trail. It has been a great way to start my experience in the park, but now it's time to head back to the campground and enjoy a campfire and a cold beer.

Capitol Reef National Park (Wayne County, Utah)

Over my years of exploring, I believe I have visited every national park in the state of Utah, save one. Capitol Reef National Park in central Utah, for whatever reason, has just not been on my to do list until now. Some months ago, I made camping reservations and planned a weekend bouncing between Capitol Reef and Arches National Parks. That weekend has arrived.

The park encompasses a warp in the Earth's crust known as the Waterpocket Fold. This geologic feature makes for an amazing desert landscape. Driving into the park, I'm provided breathtaking views of red sandstone cliffs and escarpments. Deep canyons carved by the Fremont River run alongside the main highway.

This area has seen many visitors over the millennia. From the ancient Fremont people creating intricate petroglyphs and pictographs to the early Mormons carving their names and dates of travel as part of 'pioneer register', the walls of many of the cliffs and canyons are covered with a thousand years of history.

I have a lot hikes planned between the two parks, one of which I end up knocking out before setting up camp, but afterwards, I head to the Fruita Historic District of the park. This area was settled by the Mormons, who planted a number of orchards, which give it the name. The campground is pretty standard for the park system, but very nice. I have a fire ring, picnic table, and grill. After setting up my tent, I pop open a beer, get a campfire going, and begin to cook dinner over the flames. Life is good.

Pando, the Trembling Giant (Sevier County, Utah)

Near Fish Lake in West-central Utah, lives one of the oldest and largest organisms on Earth. The clonal colony of quaking aspens known as Pando or sometimes as the Trembling Giant is estimated to be around 80,000 years old and have mass of 6 million kilograms. While viewing the forest of white trunks, it's easy to think of them as individual trees, but they are in fact all clones of each other and share a common root structure. There are more than 40,000 stems rising from the earth to make up this entity's forest. 

It's hard to believe that all of the trees that I can see as they blanket the mountainside. The elevation here is over nine-thousand feet and so it's fairly cold and there is still snow on the ground in patches. The stems (trunks) are bare of leaves this early in the season at this elevation, but it's still quite beautiful. In addition to Pando, there are many other patches of quacking aspens on the nearby mountainsides and valleys. I suspect they are also clonal colonies, but perhaps not as old are large. Still, quite amazing to see something on this scale.

Washington State Park Petroglyphs (Washington County, Missouri)

I'm back in the St. Louis area for a few days to arrange and attend my grandfather's funeral. He was a good man and we were very close, but he lived a rich life of ninety-three years and since my grandmother passed a few years ago, I truly believe he has just been waiting for his time to come. While I will certainly miss him, I can't really feel sad because I know he is happier now.

While in the area, I wanted to take a short break from family matters to visit a site I had read about a few months ago. Washington State Park, which is about two hours southwest of my hometown, contains some very interesting Native American petroglyphs. These rock art panels are thought to have been created by artists from the same Mississippian culture that built the Cahokia complex around the first millennia CE. 

It's a short drive through the park and then a stroll out onto a board walk to visit the panels, which have been protected by a open awning structure. As they images were carved around a thousand years ago, I'm not sure the roof is all that necessary, but I can still appreciate the state wanting to protect these treasures.

The images themselves are quite unique in my experience. I've never seen petroglyphs quite like these. The are carved into horizontal slabs of limestone, which is prevalent in this area. The images are carved deep into the stone and instead of being made from a series of pecks, it's almost as if the negative image was simply removed from the stone like a puzzle piece. The most common image is that of a thunderbird, which appears many times on the large panels. In addition, there are arrows, squares, and turkey tracks. A very cool collage of unique images. While it was a bit of a drive to get here and I have important matters to attend to, I'm very glad I came down this way.