Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne (Yosemite National Park)

For a couple of years now, ever since I hiked to Glen Aulin, I have wanted to complete the entire Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne trail in Yosemite National Park. As I recall, the first section, which ends at Glen Aulin, was one of the most magnificent hikes I had done to that point. It is full of cascading waterfalls and sheets of granite, over which the Tuolumne River runs. Mentioning this to some of my hiker friends at work, they were more than ecstatic to join me on the trail. Four of us, Bill, Van, Rich and myself, set out on Friday Morning to backpack this popular trek.

Day 1:

Meeting up in southern Reno, we departed in two vehicles at approximately 5:15 AM. Van rode with me in the jeep, while Bill and Rich drove down in Rich’s Rav 4. The two-and-half hour drive to Yosemite was mostly uneventful except for finding a black bear on the side of the road near Topaz Lake, a victim of road kill. We arrived moments before the highway maintenance crew. It’s such a sad site to see a majestic animal such as this killed in such an undignified way, but I suppose that is life in the Sierra Nevadas.

We meet at the Whoa Nellie Deli just beyond the junction of US 395 and CA 120, which leads to Tioga Pass and the high country of Yosemite. After grabbing some refreshment, using the facilities, and grabbing our final supplies, we make our way to the Wilderness Permit Office. I had already made the reservations and so it was just a matter of picking up the permits. We do, however, have to wait in line for 30 minutes or so while others make their arrangements. While waiting, Van and I start talking to a young lady in front of us in line who got lucky enough to land permits to do the John Muir Trail, something we both hope to accomplish at some point in time. She and a friend are planning to tackle the high-elevation trail in 25 days, which is pretty generous for 212 miles. However, she mentions that backpacking is a recent activity for her and that coming from the coast, she is concerned about altitude sickness. After she gets her permits, we wish her well and offer some encouragement. She’ll need it, but I hope she is able to complete the trail. It is quite an accomplishment.

Talking with the ranger who is issuing our permits, he ensures we are aware of and practice ‘Leave No Trace’ camping methods and are aware of how to deal with any black bears we may see on the trail. I appreciate the fact that the rangers take the time to cover this information with backpackers. In addition, he tells us that fires are allowed in existing fire rings along the trail. Van and I both pleasantly shocked. With the persistent drought conditions in California, we all assumed that it would be camp stoves only, but the current campfire status is a welcomed sound. Who doesn’t appreciate a nice camp fire in the woods? After wrapping up with the rangers, we drop Van and Bill off at the Lembert Dome/Glen Aulin trailhead and make the 30 mile drive down to White Wolf Campground to stage Rich’s car. We then make our way back in my jeep to rejoin our friends.

With the vehicles set, we toss on our packs and start the long trail, each one of us with a glint of wonder in our eyes. While the first couple of miles are relatively uneventful, we start meeting up with the Tuolumne River near mile marker two, and from there it’s on! We start by crossing a massive slab of granite that looks as though it flows like liquid from the dome above. Next, we make our way down a long series of granite steps that parallel the river as it makes its way over waterfall after waterfall and cascades over might sheets of granite. These are truly awe-inspiring sites, and they come one after another after another. We make terrible time, as we are too busy taking pictures of this amazing spectacle of stone and water, but no one really cares. These moments and vistas are to be taken in and savored for all time.

At about 5.8 miles, we reach the waterfall named Glen Aulin, and the high sierra camp of the same name. We take a few minutes here to rest and get a snack. We don’t relax for too long though because “there are miles to go before we sleep”. Just beyond Glen Aulin the canyon opens up to one of the most magnificent views these eyes have ever seen. Had I known this was only a few hundred yards beyond the camp when I visited here a couple of years ago, I certainly would have hiked the additional steps, but not knowing, I had turned around and headed back to my car on that trip. I’m so glad I didn’t do that on this one. The valley here is beyond beautiful. It is the stuff of legend. The Tuolumne cuts a small path towards the sun, was granite domes rise on the left and right. The greenery of a lush pine forest carpets the valley floor as the sun and clouds provide a divine back drop. Truly, words cannot describe this view and if you are reading this, I can’t encourage you enough to see this valley for yourself. I promise you won’t regret it.

After retracting our jaws, we continue on down the trail towards are declared campsite for the night, Waterwheel Falls. Along the way, we are rewarded with many more waterfalls and granite sheets bathed in river water. Eventually, we reach a spot that Van notices that will make an ideal campsite for the night. A large house-sized boulder should act as a wind-break. I throw my tent up quickly and decide to scout for our best river access. After a couple of non-rewarding rock scrambles, I find a fairly easy spot for us to refill or water supply. We make camp, prepare some dinner, and then head over to a nearby cliff overlooking the river to watch a colorful sunset. As we are still at about 7k elevation, it starts getting cool fairly quick. I toss on a light fleece as we share some vodka and tell stories of lost loves and roads not taken over a campfire. This is the life. We turn in shortly thereafter, and enjoy a quiet, but slightly cool night in the Sierras.

Day 2:

Awaking before the sun rises, I crawl out of my sleep bag and tent to greet a cool morning. My first order of business after find a tree a few yards away from camp is to get some water boiling for my morning earl gray – got to have some caffeine, and the hot water is not a bad thing either, as the air temperature is probably around 40 on this brisk morning before the sun rises. Van, Bill, and eventually Rich begin to stir and break camp. We prepare some breakfast, refill our water, break down camp, and hit the trail once more.

The first part of our second day is much like our first, but with less hikers. The first section, to Glen Aulin, is a very popular day hike and rightfully so, but beyond Glen Aulin the human population disperses. The truth of the matter is that day-hikers outnumber backpackers many times over. That’s fine by all of us, as we all appreciate the peace and quiet out here. In fact, it is one of the reasons we seek these adventures out. We continue past one waterfall after another, each at least as magnificent as the previous. Eventually, we reach a clearing overlooking a nice swimming hole. There are other backpackers here, with whom Van and I talk about the trail and possible campsites ahead. Most people do the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne from west to east, but as I had made our reservations accordingly, we are doing it east to west. The advantage of this is that hikers we pass traveling in the opposite direction are able to provide us valuable insight in what is to come with regard to water, elevation, and potential campsites. While this particular spot is very nice, it lacks any form of shade and as we have dropped down below 5k, the temperatures are rising. The girls we talk to warn us of a somewhat brutal ‘up-and-over’ coming up. We decide to push on and get this out of the way.

Using the word ‘brutal’ to describe this climb is pretty accurate. The trail alternates between forest and exposed granite as we gain elevation at an alarming rate. It’s challenging, but we eventually all make it to the top. Bill and I start down, while Van waits for Rich to make it up. The trip down is even steeper, and while it doesn’t require nearly as much effort, it does tear up the knees. I can see the trail several hundred feet below us. We continue on. Finally reaching the bottom, we are rewarded with another granite knob to climb over . . . or so we think. Instead, we get to pass behind this one. An noteworthy site back here is a small pool surrounded on three sides by 30 foot granite walls and a small waterfall feeding it – very cool.

After we reach the bottom, we start looking for campsites. Quickly, we find an adequate site. As before, we quickly put up our tents and get some dinner cooking. After dinner, I head down to the river, just below us, and wade out into the icy cold water. I had intended to swim a bit to wash off some of the sweat and stink, but the water is so cold, I can’t bring myself to go all the way in. I splash the frigid water onto myself, doing my best to wash off the dirt. I then, quickly get out of the water and put on some dry clothes. While the air temperature here is pretty warm, that water is just . . . brrrr. . . .

I hit the sack just after sunset, actually falling asleep in my sleeping bag with a shirt on. I awake quickly to discover my mistake. My bag is so warm that I’m sweating like a dog. I strip off my shirt and try to fall back asleep. It doesn’t take long. I generally fall asleep pretty fast when camping, but I awaken several times during each night. I think it is because my body parts go numb laying on just a sleeping pad and I need to re-position my weight and allow feeling to come back to those areas.

Day 3:

Again, I awaken before sun up and start my daily ritual of breaking camp and preparing my morning tea. We break camp a bit early today and start the long trek to the Pate Valley, several miles ahead. Again, we are greeted with multiple waterfalls, but after a mile or so, the terrain changes a bit and enters a thick and lush forest. I’m leading the way, followed by Bill, Van, and finally Rich. Perhaps 5 minutes separates each of us.

Approaching a particularly lush area of the forest, I am greeted with a young dark-pelted black bear right on the trail. Based on his size, I would estimate that he is only two or three years old, but still large enough to do me some damage. Luckily, I know how to handle myself around bears. Grizzlies are one thing, as they can be very aggressive, but the black bears that populate the park are generally pretty timid. The recommended way for handling them is to try to make yourself look bigger by raising your arms and yelling at the bear. I begin do this, but then I consider that my hiking partners may have not seen a bear before. Bill catches up and joins me in trying to ward off the bear. He complies and allows Bill and I to move on without incident.

About a quarter of a mile further, Bill and I see two fellow backpackers filling their water supply near a cascading waterfall. We stop to chat with them and warn them of the bear. They offer good information about upcoming camp sites and the terrain we should expect. Van arrives and we ask him about the bear, which he didn’t see. The other hikers depart and a few minutes later, Rich joins us. Rich did get to see the bear, but was a little intimidated by him. Eventually, the bear wandered off into the wood and allowed Rich to pass.

We continue on and arrive at the Pate Valley, which is not much more than a trail intersection in the forest. A sign here indicates that White Wolf, where we left the other car, is only 8.4 miles ahead. This seems a bit low, but knowing we have a grueling climb to get out of this canyon, we push on. Crossing a couple of foot-bridges, we see some very nice campsites, but push on even further.

We eventually start the relentless switchbacks that indicate we are making our way out of the canyon and up the cliff-side towards the high lands of the park. It’s hot, very hot, and a small dry pond reminds me of our water situation. We had intended to refill our water supply before leaving the river, but it’s too late for that now. Looking at the map, it appears a small creek cross the trail a couple of miles ahead. After catching up with Van and Bill, we discuss and agree on this course of action.

Eventually reaching the dribble of a creek, we refill our water. I go first and while waiting on the others, I decide to scout out some of the granite domes above us, looking for an acceptable clearing to pitch our tents for the night. As luck would have it, I stumble across an ideal spot – though not immediately. I had to do a fair amount of rock scrambling and jumping until finally finding an open clearing with nice shade and a fantastic view of the Hetch Hetchy Valley to the west. I return to the others and tell them of our accommodations for the evening. We make our way up the trail and begin to make camp. Dinner, water, etc.

A few other hikes pass by, waving and offering greetings, while we relax. Eventually, a young lady with blonde dreadlocks stops by and asks if we mind if she and some friends that are a bit behind her head out through our camp to the cliff and watch the sunset. We voice our agreement and a short time later her four friends arrive. As the sun begins to set over the reservoir, we join them on the cliff. It turns out they are all park employees, food service mostly, who are just on their weekends. Wow, what a life! I’m jealous that I didn’t get to do this twenty years ago. As the sun sets and winds kick up the group departs with our well wishes. They intend on hiking in the dark to White Wolf, which they believe (us as well) to be only four or so miles ahead.

We head back to camp and call it a night. It’s cool, but not cold here tonight and I awake a couple of times. As we are set up out on a granite knob, we have a magnificent view of the heavens. I take the opportunity to unzip the door of my tent and absorb some of the starlight, as well as get a great view of Hera’s Milky Way.

Day 4:

We awake especially early this morning and after breaking camp, hit the trail before seven. We’re all anxious now for a fresh meal and a shower. The first two miles or so are brutal as we gain hundreds of feet of elevation. My knees feel it, but eventually, I reach an area that levels out. The trail continues on through a lush forest. Van and I comment on how difficult it must have been to hike through this dense vegetation in the dark, as our young friends must have done a few hours before.

The signage is somewhat confusing as the math doesn’t quite add up correctly. It seems there is about a two mile discrepancy between an earlier sign for the distance between Pate Valley and White Wolf and a sign we are seeing now. Ah well, it’s early and we have the entire day to make our way back to the car.

We pass Hardin Lake, which is mostly dry. The trail eventually intersects with a park service road and we follow this another two or so miles into the White Wolf Campground. Rich’s car is a welcomed site, and thankfully he gave me his car key so we can get in. Van had planned accordingly and stashed a styrofoam cooler of beer and ice in the car. We didn’t have much hope that it would be cold, but thought it at least might be cool. To our amazement, there is still a fair amount of ice in the cooler. We crack open a nice cold beer and toast our accomplishment. Who cares that is 10 AM?

As we await Rich’s triumphant completion of the trail, we notice two of the young girls we had watched the sunset with last night on a park bench right by the car. We start talking to them and discover that their blonde friend had gotten separated and lost. As they make a missing person’s report to the ranger, we do our best to assist with the map and trying to pinpoint locations. Other groups of hikers join in the discussion offering their experience and lack of siting’s on the trail. Moments later, she arrives undamaged. She had taken a wrong turn and ended up bedding down for the night. We wish them luck and offer them some left over food, as they were out, and then they are on their way.

Just a few minutes later, Rich finally arrives. We greet him with a cold beer and allow him to relax for a bit. Another group of young hikers arrive at the trail head just five minutes after the bus they had intended to catch had departed. While we don’t have much room, we offer to drive one of them back to their car, which is at the same location as my jeep. These guys had done the exact same trail as us. They weigh their options, but eventually decide to go another route. They thank us multiple times for the offer as we depart. Hikers/Backpackers are a tight community and we all go out of our way to help each other when we can.

For now though, me and my three stinky friends are on our way home. We stop off to get my jeep and then meet-up again at the Whoa Nellie Deli for a well-deserved burger. With the confusing signage, I’m not completely confident in our mileage, but I believe the hike was about 32 miles total, which is a pretty short distance over four days. However, we had agreed at the beginning that this was to be a relaxing trip, which it was. I love getting out there and taking in all that nature has to offer. Each trip is unique and this one was certainly among the great ones of my life.