Saturday, May 11, 2019

Capitol Gorge Trail (Capitol Reef National Park, Utah)

 

Before setting up camp for my first night in Capitol Reef National Park, I wanted to get in a hike. The Capitol Gorge Trail seemed like a good choice, as the trailhead is only a few miles from Fruita Campground. After driving a couple of miles down the scenic road, a left turn onto a gravel road and into the wider part of the gorge leads to the trailhead. 


While this is one of the lesser known national parks, this particular trail doesn't seem to be much of a secret. There are a lot of cars parked here at the trailhead. As this trail is only a few miles out and back, I decide to just take my camera and a bottle of water. It's surprisingly cool, around 70 degrees, in this canyon and I'm not expecting any craziness, as there is only one possible route.

Immediately after leaving the trailhead, I find a few Native American petroglyphs on the northern canyon wall. I also begin seeing a number of names and dates carved into the red sandstone. As I understand it, the Mormon settlers of this area passed through this area and even this specific canyon. They often left their names on something of a 'pioneer register' to note when they passed through. Unlike much modern graffiti, most of these names were painstakingly carved with substantial attention to detail in the fonts used. 
In one section, there is a list of five names carved high upon the wall along with the date 1911. The individuals responsible for this entry into the register would have had to repel from the top to even reach this panel. That's a lot of trouble just to leave one's mark. It's interesting to see marks of these two cultures separated by perhaps a thousand years in such close proximity. Perhaps it gives some insight into what inspired these ancient and historic artists. 


As I continue down the wash, I scan the sides of the canyon for further panels, and while I see a few names here and there, there are few other large panels. I do note what appears to be a large stone ridge with a possible overhang at the top on the north side of the canyon. Though it is a very steep climb to get to the top of the ridge, I decide to give it a go and upon reaching the top, I'm extremely glad I did.


On this ridge, I first find a large petroglyph panel, the best examples I've seen so far today. The figures are somewhat strange and much different than those I often see further west. The humanoid figures wear elaborate costumes. It's really a stunning panel, but looking to my right, I'm surprised to see signs of something even more unexpected.


Under the overhang, there appears to be a collapsed wall, which would have provided the exterior wall of a ancient shelter. I'm not an expert, but I believe these are the remains of a cliff dwelling. While the area between the floor and the overhang would have required squatting to move around, I can imagine this spot providing a great shelter from the elements when the wall was in tact. This is an amazing find.

After dropping back down into the gorge, I come across a nice couple that asks if I have been here before. Of course I haven't, but they go on to explain they visited this trail about twenty-five years ago and remember a specifically panel of pioneer names, which they are trying to find. I haven't noticed anything like their description and they consider that it may have been in a different canyon in the park. 


I wish them well and head further up the canyon, but after only a couple of hundred yards, I encounter a barbed wire fence stretched across the wash. Referring to my location, I determine this to be the boundary of the national park. I decide to return to the trailhead. Arriving back at the jeep, see I've hiked about 5.2 miles along this trail. It has been a great way to start my experience in the park, but now it's time to head back to the campground and enjoy a campfire and a cold beer.

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