Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne (Yosemite National Park)

For a couple of years now, ever since I hiked to Glen Aulin, I have wanted to complete the entire Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne trail in Yosemite National Park. As I recall, the first section, which ends at Glen Aulin, was one of the most magnificent hikes I had done to that point. It is full of cascading waterfalls and sheets of granite, over which the Tuolumne River runs. Mentioning this to some of my hiker friends at work, they were more than ecstatic to join me on the trail. Four of us, Bill, Van, Rich and myself, set out on Friday Morning to backpack this popular trek.

Day 1:

Meeting up in southern Reno, we departed in two vehicles at approximately 5:15 AM. Van rode with me in the jeep, while Bill and Rich drove down in Rich’s Rav 4. The two-and-half hour drive to Yosemite was mostly uneventful except for finding a black bear on the side of the road near Topaz Lake, a victim of road kill. We arrived moments before the highway maintenance crew. It’s such a sad site to see a majestic animal such as this killed in such an undignified way, but I suppose that is life in the Sierra Nevadas.

We meet at the Whoa Nellie Deli just beyond the junction of US 395 and CA 120, which leads to Tioga Pass and the high country of Yosemite. After grabbing some refreshment, using the facilities, and grabbing our final supplies, we make our way to the Wilderness Permit Office. I had already made the reservations and so it was just a matter of picking up the permits. We do, however, have to wait in line for 30 minutes or so while others make their arrangements. While waiting, Van and I start talking to a young lady in front of us in line who got lucky enough to land permits to do the John Muir Trail, something we both hope to accomplish at some point in time. She and a friend are planning to tackle the high-elevation trail in 25 days, which is pretty generous for 212 miles. However, she mentions that backpacking is a recent activity for her and that coming from the coast, she is concerned about altitude sickness. After she gets her permits, we wish her well and offer some encouragement. She’ll need it, but I hope she is able to complete the trail. It is quite an accomplishment.

Talking with the ranger who is issuing our permits, he ensures we are aware of and practice ‘Leave No Trace’ camping methods and are aware of how to deal with any black bears we may see on the trail. I appreciate the fact that the rangers take the time to cover this information with backpackers. In addition, he tells us that fires are allowed in existing fire rings along the trail. Van and I both pleasantly shocked. With the persistent drought conditions in California, we all assumed that it would be camp stoves only, but the current campfire status is a welcomed sound. Who doesn’t appreciate a nice camp fire in the woods? After wrapping up with the rangers, we drop Van and Bill off at the Lembert Dome/Glen Aulin trailhead and make the 30 mile drive down to White Wolf Campground to stage Rich’s car. We then make our way back in my jeep to rejoin our friends.

With the vehicles set, we toss on our packs and start the long trail, each one of us with a glint of wonder in our eyes. While the first couple of miles are relatively uneventful, we start meeting up with the Tuolumne River near mile marker two, and from there it’s on! We start by crossing a massive slab of granite that looks as though it flows like liquid from the dome above. Next, we make our way down a long series of granite steps that parallel the river as it makes its way over waterfall after waterfall and cascades over might sheets of granite. These are truly awe-inspiring sites, and they come one after another after another. We make terrible time, as we are too busy taking pictures of this amazing spectacle of stone and water, but no one really cares. These moments and vistas are to be taken in and savored for all time.

At about 5.8 miles, we reach the waterfall named Glen Aulin, and the high sierra camp of the same name. We take a few minutes here to rest and get a snack. We don’t relax for too long though because “there are miles to go before we sleep”. Just beyond Glen Aulin the canyon opens up to one of the most magnificent views these eyes have ever seen. Had I known this was only a few hundred yards beyond the camp when I visited here a couple of years ago, I certainly would have hiked the additional steps, but not knowing, I had turned around and headed back to my car on that trip. I’m so glad I didn’t do that on this one. The valley here is beyond beautiful. It is the stuff of legend. The Tuolumne cuts a small path towards the sun, was granite domes rise on the left and right. The greenery of a lush pine forest carpets the valley floor as the sun and clouds provide a divine back drop. Truly, words cannot describe this view and if you are reading this, I can’t encourage you enough to see this valley for yourself. I promise you won’t regret it.

After retracting our jaws, we continue on down the trail towards are declared campsite for the night, Waterwheel Falls. Along the way, we are rewarded with many more waterfalls and granite sheets bathed in river water. Eventually, we reach a spot that Van notices that will make an ideal campsite for the night. A large house-sized boulder should act as a wind-break. I throw my tent up quickly and decide to scout for our best river access. After a couple of non-rewarding rock scrambles, I find a fairly easy spot for us to refill or water supply. We make camp, prepare some dinner, and then head over to a nearby cliff overlooking the river to watch a colorful sunset. As we are still at about 7k elevation, it starts getting cool fairly quick. I toss on a light fleece as we share some vodka and tell stories of lost loves and roads not taken over a campfire. This is the life. We turn in shortly thereafter, and enjoy a quiet, but slightly cool night in the Sierras.

Day 2:

Awaking before the sun rises, I crawl out of my sleep bag and tent to greet a cool morning. My first order of business after find a tree a few yards away from camp is to get some water boiling for my morning earl gray – got to have some caffeine, and the hot water is not a bad thing either, as the air temperature is probably around 40 on this brisk morning before the sun rises. Van, Bill, and eventually Rich begin to stir and break camp. We prepare some breakfast, refill our water, break down camp, and hit the trail once more.

The first part of our second day is much like our first, but with less hikers. The first section, to Glen Aulin, is a very popular day hike and rightfully so, but beyond Glen Aulin the human population disperses. The truth of the matter is that day-hikers outnumber backpackers many times over. That’s fine by all of us, as we all appreciate the peace and quiet out here. In fact, it is one of the reasons we seek these adventures out. We continue past one waterfall after another, each at least as magnificent as the previous. Eventually, we reach a clearing overlooking a nice swimming hole. There are other backpackers here, with whom Van and I talk about the trail and possible campsites ahead. Most people do the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne from west to east, but as I had made our reservations accordingly, we are doing it east to west. The advantage of this is that hikers we pass traveling in the opposite direction are able to provide us valuable insight in what is to come with regard to water, elevation, and potential campsites. While this particular spot is very nice, it lacks any form of shade and as we have dropped down below 5k, the temperatures are rising. The girls we talk to warn us of a somewhat brutal ‘up-and-over’ coming up. We decide to push on and get this out of the way.

Using the word ‘brutal’ to describe this climb is pretty accurate. The trail alternates between forest and exposed granite as we gain elevation at an alarming rate. It’s challenging, but we eventually all make it to the top. Bill and I start down, while Van waits for Rich to make it up. The trip down is even steeper, and while it doesn’t require nearly as much effort, it does tear up the knees. I can see the trail several hundred feet below us. We continue on. Finally reaching the bottom, we are rewarded with another granite knob to climb over . . . or so we think. Instead, we get to pass behind this one. An noteworthy site back here is a small pool surrounded on three sides by 30 foot granite walls and a small waterfall feeding it – very cool.

After we reach the bottom, we start looking for campsites. Quickly, we find an adequate site. As before, we quickly put up our tents and get some dinner cooking. After dinner, I head down to the river, just below us, and wade out into the icy cold water. I had intended to swim a bit to wash off some of the sweat and stink, but the water is so cold, I can’t bring myself to go all the way in. I splash the frigid water onto myself, doing my best to wash off the dirt. I then, quickly get out of the water and put on some dry clothes. While the air temperature here is pretty warm, that water is just . . . brrrr. . . .

I hit the sack just after sunset, actually falling asleep in my sleeping bag with a shirt on. I awake quickly to discover my mistake. My bag is so warm that I’m sweating like a dog. I strip off my shirt and try to fall back asleep. It doesn’t take long. I generally fall asleep pretty fast when camping, but I awaken several times during each night. I think it is because my body parts go numb laying on just a sleeping pad and I need to re-position my weight and allow feeling to come back to those areas.

Day 3:

Again, I awaken before sun up and start my daily ritual of breaking camp and preparing my morning tea. We break camp a bit early today and start the long trek to the Pate Valley, several miles ahead. Again, we are greeted with multiple waterfalls, but after a mile or so, the terrain changes a bit and enters a thick and lush forest. I’m leading the way, followed by Bill, Van, and finally Rich. Perhaps 5 minutes separates each of us.

Approaching a particularly lush area of the forest, I am greeted with a young dark-pelted black bear right on the trail. Based on his size, I would estimate that he is only two or three years old, but still large enough to do me some damage. Luckily, I know how to handle myself around bears. Grizzlies are one thing, as they can be very aggressive, but the black bears that populate the park are generally pretty timid. The recommended way for handling them is to try to make yourself look bigger by raising your arms and yelling at the bear. I begin do this, but then I consider that my hiking partners may have not seen a bear before. Bill catches up and joins me in trying to ward off the bear. He complies and allows Bill and I to move on without incident.

About a quarter of a mile further, Bill and I see two fellow backpackers filling their water supply near a cascading waterfall. We stop to chat with them and warn them of the bear. They offer good information about upcoming camp sites and the terrain we should expect. Van arrives and we ask him about the bear, which he didn’t see. The other hikers depart and a few minutes later, Rich joins us. Rich did get to see the bear, but was a little intimidated by him. Eventually, the bear wandered off into the wood and allowed Rich to pass.

We continue on and arrive at the Pate Valley, which is not much more than a trail intersection in the forest. A sign here indicates that White Wolf, where we left the other car, is only 8.4 miles ahead. This seems a bit low, but knowing we have a grueling climb to get out of this canyon, we push on. Crossing a couple of foot-bridges, we see some very nice campsites, but push on even further.

We eventually start the relentless switchbacks that indicate we are making our way out of the canyon and up the cliff-side towards the high lands of the park. It’s hot, very hot, and a small dry pond reminds me of our water situation. We had intended to refill our water supply before leaving the river, but it’s too late for that now. Looking at the map, it appears a small creek cross the trail a couple of miles ahead. After catching up with Van and Bill, we discuss and agree on this course of action.

Eventually reaching the dribble of a creek, we refill our water. I go first and while waiting on the others, I decide to scout out some of the granite domes above us, looking for an acceptable clearing to pitch our tents for the night. As luck would have it, I stumble across an ideal spot – though not immediately. I had to do a fair amount of rock scrambling and jumping until finally finding an open clearing with nice shade and a fantastic view of the Hetch Hetchy Valley to the west. I return to the others and tell them of our accommodations for the evening. We make our way up the trail and begin to make camp. Dinner, water, etc.

A few other hikes pass by, waving and offering greetings, while we relax. Eventually, a young lady with blonde dreadlocks stops by and asks if we mind if she and some friends that are a bit behind her head out through our camp to the cliff and watch the sunset. We voice our agreement and a short time later her four friends arrive. As the sun begins to set over the reservoir, we join them on the cliff. It turns out they are all park employees, food service mostly, who are just on their weekends. Wow, what a life! I’m jealous that I didn’t get to do this twenty years ago. As the sun sets and winds kick up the group departs with our well wishes. They intend on hiking in the dark to White Wolf, which they believe (us as well) to be only four or so miles ahead.

We head back to camp and call it a night. It’s cool, but not cold here tonight and I awake a couple of times. As we are set up out on a granite knob, we have a magnificent view of the heavens. I take the opportunity to unzip the door of my tent and absorb some of the starlight, as well as get a great view of Hera’s Milky Way.

Day 4:

We awake especially early this morning and after breaking camp, hit the trail before seven. We’re all anxious now for a fresh meal and a shower. The first two miles or so are brutal as we gain hundreds of feet of elevation. My knees feel it, but eventually, I reach an area that levels out. The trail continues on through a lush forest. Van and I comment on how difficult it must have been to hike through this dense vegetation in the dark, as our young friends must have done a few hours before.

The signage is somewhat confusing as the math doesn’t quite add up correctly. It seems there is about a two mile discrepancy between an earlier sign for the distance between Pate Valley and White Wolf and a sign we are seeing now. Ah well, it’s early and we have the entire day to make our way back to the car.

We pass Hardin Lake, which is mostly dry. The trail eventually intersects with a park service road and we follow this another two or so miles into the White Wolf Campground. Rich’s car is a welcomed site, and thankfully he gave me his car key so we can get in. Van had planned accordingly and stashed a styrofoam cooler of beer and ice in the car. We didn’t have much hope that it would be cold, but thought it at least might be cool. To our amazement, there is still a fair amount of ice in the cooler. We crack open a nice cold beer and toast our accomplishment. Who cares that is 10 AM?

As we await Rich’s triumphant completion of the trail, we notice two of the young girls we had watched the sunset with last night on a park bench right by the car. We start talking to them and discover that their blonde friend had gotten separated and lost. As they make a missing person’s report to the ranger, we do our best to assist with the map and trying to pinpoint locations. Other groups of hikers join in the discussion offering their experience and lack of siting’s on the trail. Moments later, she arrives undamaged. She had taken a wrong turn and ended up bedding down for the night. We wish them luck and offer them some left over food, as they were out, and then they are on their way.

Just a few minutes later, Rich finally arrives. We greet him with a cold beer and allow him to relax for a bit. Another group of young hikers arrive at the trail head just five minutes after the bus they had intended to catch had departed. While we don’t have much room, we offer to drive one of them back to their car, which is at the same location as my jeep. These guys had done the exact same trail as us. They weigh their options, but eventually decide to go another route. They thank us multiple times for the offer as we depart. Hikers/Backpackers are a tight community and we all go out of our way to help each other when we can.

For now though, me and my three stinky friends are on our way home. We stop off to get my jeep and then meet-up again at the Whoa Nellie Deli for a well-deserved burger. With the confusing signage, I’m not completely confident in our mileage, but I believe the hike was about 32 miles total, which is a pretty short distance over four days. However, we had agreed at the beginning that this was to be a relaxing trip, which it was. I love getting out there and taking in all that nature has to offer. Each trip is unique and this one was certainly among the great ones of my life. 

Glacier Point (Yosemite National Park)

 

A trip to Yosemite is never quiet complete without taking in the view from Glacier Point, which is surely one of the most magnificent vistas in all of the world. On my home from the Shadow of the Giants trail, I decided to add the cherry to the trip, but taking the right turn and heading up the mountain to the popular spot.

Arriving at the peak visitation time is always problematic as this is one of the most popular destinations within the park, but the view is worth it. I eventually make it to the parking log and find a spot. Walking over to the edge, I am in awe (as I am every time I see the world from this point of view) to see Half Dome staring right back at me and flanked by Nevada and Vernal Falls. Off to the other side of the valley, the wisp that remains of Yosemite Falls can be seen taking the great plunge from Tuolumne Meadows above down to the might Merced River below. 

Taking a few pictures and just enjoying the fresh air, I head back to the jeep after a short time and head back home. A quick pit stop, but always worth it.

Shadow of the Giants Trail (Madera County, California)

 

Ever since I had heard about another giant sequoia grove just south of Yosemite, I thought it might be an interesting hike to explore. The Shadow of the Giants National Recreation Trail is a short walk through a moderately populated grove of the massive trees. 

Getting to the trail is a bit of a jaunt from my home in Reno and since I was lucky enough to secure a campsite reservation inside Yosemite Valley, I thought it might be a good opportunity to turn the long drive into a two-day camping affair. Arriving in Yosemite at my campsite in the Upper Pines campground, I got camp set up and simply relaxed through the evening taking in the magnificence of the valley. I got to bed early and woke up to a brisk morning. In no particular hurry, I got some tea and oats going before breaking camp and hitting the road for the Nelder Grove area south of the park. 


Exiting Yosemite through the southern entrance, the turn onto Sky Ranch Road is about 10 miles beyond. A twisty-turny ascent up into the foothills leads to a signed gravel road. A few miles through the woods on a mildly rough road and I arrived at the Shadow of the Giants trail head. Parking is very limited, but luckily my jeep is able to park where other cars are timid to try.

The trail itself is only about a mile and half-long, and I had intended to do a much longer hike through the entire Nelder Grove, but given the time and the long drive home, I decided to shorten my hike. In addition, the other trees of the Grove are spread out over a large area and I would be hiking nearly 11 miles to see just a few more trees. The trees along this nationally recognized part of the grove are middle-aged as far as giant sequoias go. None are nearly as big as General Sherman or even the Grizzly Giant, but even so, there is no mistaking the girth of a giant sequoia. All in all, there about a dozen trees visible along the trail, the largest approximately 25 feet in diameter and 275ish feet tall. Most of the trees have very little fire damage, which is somewhat rare in my experience. 

The short loop trail returns me to the parking area and I head back out and start back for Yosemite. A very quick hike, but seeing a giant sequoia is always an experience and well worth the time involved. 

Desolation Wilderness (El Dorado County, California)

Living in an area with so many overnight backpacking destinations nearby is truly amazing. This weekend's trip was into the Desolation Wilderness with my friend Bill. We had tried to do this trip about a month ago, but spring rains made us change our minds. This weekend though turned out to be perfect. I had acquired overnight back country permits with our itinerary starting us at the Echo Lakes, camping at Lake Aloha, and exiting at the Eagle Falls trail head.

Knowing that parking would be an issue, we met at 6:00 AM and drove our jeeps down to the Eagle Falls trail head. I dropped my jeep off and then we loaded our packs into Bill's jeep and we made our way through South Lake Tahoe and to the Echo Lakes trail head. We were on the trail by 8:30 or so, and this first day was intended to be pretty easy.

I have day hiked from Echo Lakes to Lake Aloha in the past and it is a beautiful hike. As we make our way past both Lower and Upper Echo lake, Bill comments on the beauty of the lakes. As we reach the Lake of the Woods side trail, I mention that it is actually one of the most beautiful alpine lakes I have ever seen. Knowing that our mileage for the day is going to be minimal, we decide to hike down to the hidden lake on the side trail.

As we make our way down the switchbacks, we are little surprised to see Forestry Service Rangers coming up from the lake. They are extremely friendly and ask about our plans, noticing that we have more on our backs than just an average day-hiker. I pull out our permits and they offer some friendly advice about camping spots. 

A short time later, we arrive at the Lake of the Woods and Bill agrees that it is an amazing site to witness. Something about this little hidden lake just appeals to me. It's clear, blue waters, its location tucked away in a small little hidden area, and just the simple fact that it is always so peaceful down here. Great place for anyone just wanting a little peace and quiet. After a short rest, we start up the trail leading out of the depression containing this great little lake. The climb is steep, but knowing that our destination for the evening is just a short distance ahead, we make it with ease. 

We arrive at the southern end of Lake Aloha, which has a lot more water in than it did the last time I was here. It actually looks like a lake this time, as opposed to being a collection of puddles, as it was on my last visit. This is one of the larger lakes we will visit on this trip and so we begin walking around the edge, looking for a suitable campsite. I'm a little surprised to see a small pond (which probably connects to the lake at higher water levels) with lily pads in it. Awesome!!

We decide on a campsite and begin to set up camp. It's still early in the day and as I didn't get a lot of sleep the night before, I decide to take a short nap. It's hot, but not unbearable. After about 45 minutes, I awake and decide to fix a late lunch - freeze dried three-cheese chicken pasta. It's actually pretty good. Bill and I spend the remainder of the afternoon just relaxing and taking in the sun at this cool, alpine lake. I also get quite a few shots of the lake, including a really nice one at sunset.

Early to bed and early to rise, I awake at about 5 AM. It's cool, but not cold, but go ahead and put on some fresh clothes before leaving the tent. I actually slept pretty well overall, considering it was just my sleeping pad and sleeping bag on top of a slab of granite. And then I step outside . . . to be attacked by a never-ending swarm of vicious flesh-eating mosquitoes. This will be a theme for most of the day, but where were these little bastards yesterday. We saw no sign of them. I jump back in my tent and pack as much as possible, safe from the little vampires, but eventually, I have to go back outside and pack the tent itself. The blitzkrieg is relentless and Bill and I decide to skip breakfast in an effort to flee this onslaught. He finished packing his tent slightly before I did and so we make a dash for the trail. Away from the water, it is a little better, but they are still present.

Not knowing exactly how far around the lake we had come yesterday, we make a couple of missteps in finding the correct trail, but eventually, we find the right one. Interestingly, we encounter the first of several PCT thru-hikers as we fill our water receptacles at from the lake. Hikers are almost always such great people and long-distance thru-hikers exemplify that statement. We fill our water bottles and make the turn towards Dick's Pass.

It's all uphill for here or so I thought. Dick's Pass, at 9380 ft, is the highest point on my planned trail, but before we start the climb up to the pass, we drop down a couple of hundred feet to pass by more beautiful alpine lakes . . . or mosquito breeding grounds, as is more appropriate today. The lakes are truly amazing, but the little blood-suckers attack in force once again. We pass by Heather Lake, Susie Lake, and begin making our way to Gilmore Lake. 

As we start past Gilmore Lake, I am so overwhelmed by the mosquito assault, I miss a turn. I move my hand over my arm to free my skin from the attack and roll over 4-6 mosquitoes, only to use switch hands and repeat the process on my other arm. I must look quite comical as I make my way down the trail slapping and brushing the little bastards off of me. I see a nice hiker with her dog near the shore of Gilmore Lake and ask if she and her companions might have some repellent that I could use. She suggests going up the hill to their main campsite. As I start up that way, Bill calls me from the other trail, which I should have been one. I head back, but decide to cut through the woods after all to ask about the mosquito repellent. The extremely nice hikers offer up what they have, even though they have to pull it from the bottom of their pack. I bath in the stuff. It's a terribly pungent smell, but if it makes me unappetizing to these guys, then it's all worth it. I thank the group and we make our way back to the main trail. I laugh as I see the mosquitoes attempt to land on me, but notice the scent of the repellent and go on their way. . . . finally, some relief!!! Next challenge of the day: the relentless hike up to Dick's Pass.

From this point, it's straight uphill as we approach Dick's Pass. It's steep, but not terrible. I think Bill struggles with it a little bit, but slow and steady wins the race and after several switchbacks, we finally reach the top. The area around the high point of the trail is an open grassy meadow with sprawling views of the entire Desolation Wilderness Area. We take a few snapshots and start down the hill . . . and down . . . and down . . . and down some more.

We pass above and then along side Dick's Lake and the are forced to make a decision. Should we bypass the Velma lakes and take the cut-off towards Eagle Falls or not. After our battle with the mosquitoes, we agree that the sooner we get back to the jeep to clean-up the mosquito carcass shrapnel from our clothes and skin, the better. This short-cut will save us about 2 miles.

Continuing on past lake after lake, we start to see a increase in the number of hikers on the trail, mostly day-hikers coming up from the Eagle Falls trail head. We manage to stay on the proper trail with the help of our map-reading skills and a little confirmation from hikers passing us in the other direction.

Eventually, we see Eagle Lake come into view below us and I know we are almost to the jeep. My knees are getting a little sore from all of granite steps, but we double our pace in anticipation of the end of the trail. We finally reach the bridge cross over Eagle Falls and realize we literally have 5 minutes more to go. 

Finally, we reach the jeep. This was a great hike with some amazing country. I served my place in the food chain by providing a buffet for swarm after swarm of mosquito. I feel as though I have done a lot. In total, we hike almost 24 miles over the two days: 8 miles day 1 and about 16 miles day 2. Not bad days, but always more difficult with a full backpack strapped to me. I hope to do this trail again someday, and possibly hit the Velma Lakes, but I will definitely bring a good supply of high-powered mosquito repellent . . . and possibly a flame-thrower!!

Half Dome (Yosemite National Park, California)

I've been trying to get Half Dome cable permits for the last couple of years to no avail. This year, though, I got lucky and was able to secure some. Half Dome, for those that might be unaware, is the iconic granite monolith on the south (right side as you look into the valley) side of Yosemite Valley. I hiked it about ten years ago, prior to the lottery system being implemented. The lottery system is designed to limit the number of daredevils, and therefore the danger of, climbing the steel cables which make up the climax of the hike.

I invited several of my friends to join me, but due to prior obligations or overall unpreparedness for the trek that is Half Dome, most had to decline. Two brave co-workers, Bill and Van, did take me up on it though. Van also brought along his 13 year-old son, Logan. I have hiked with both Bill and Van in the past and had no concerns with there ability to do the hike, even though it was their first time.

Knowing this would be an all day affair, we left Reno at 4:00 AM and started the four hour drive to Yosemite Valley. While the park is only about two and a half hours from Reno, getting to the valley itself is another 90 or so minutes on top of that. We arrived at Curry Village at about 8:30 AM and found parking in the very busy lot. After checking to ensure we were all geared up, we departed the lot and headed the half-mile or so towards the trail head.

The trail to the top of Half Dome is a long extension to the Mist Trail, so named because it passes by a couple of famous waterfalls that give off a cooling mist to their vicinity. The first section of the well-traveled trail is broken pavement. As we make are way up the trail, alongside the Merced River, some of our fellow adventures point out a bobcat that had hidden from the crowds behind a large granite boulder. It's always nice to see the wildlife here in the park.

Continuing on, we begin hearing the rumbling of Nevada Falls in the distance. Eventually reaching a solidly constructed bridge over the racing river, we take a few minutes to get a snack and take advantage of the cool river water. While the trail has been relatively easy so far, I know what is to come and take full advantage of this short break and calorie stock-up. A cliff bar, some jerky, and another breakfast make for a good calorie boost. My companions and I admire Half Dome in the distance and I point out the path that we will follow up the backside of the mighty monolith. Even though I have hiked the trail before, looking at it from this perspective is still somewhat daunting. We break from our makeshift lunch spot and hit the trail hard once again. 

I'm feeling extremely good and I push the pace pretty hard. Bill, Van, and Logan do a great job of keeping up as we continue up the path. My last time on this trail, I suffered a pretty severe knee injury and while I finished the hike on that trip, I could barely walk for the two days afterwards. This trip, it was Van who would suffer from a similar issue. His quads started seizing up at about the half way mark and we slowed our pace a bit to give him time to recover. An electrolyte boost and he tries to give it another go, but tells me to go on without him. He will either join us on top or wait for us at the top of Nevada Falls.

With arrangements made, I start pushing the pace hard once again. As we continue on up the trail, we finally reach the turn and can see the cables ahead of us . . . calling to us. Once again, we stop for a bit before the final push up the mountain. Van and Logan rejoin us and resolve to complete the trail. Just about that time, a small rattlesnake decides to cross the trail in front of us and of course, I have to take a shot of the little guy.

The climb up Sub Dome is made up of a series of crisscrossing granite-carved steps and sheets of granite that must be navigated to reach the saddle between Sub Dome and Half Dome. These steps are a killer on the knees and a fall in any direction could easily be fatal. The danger factor is increased by the fact that people are going up and down the steps at the same time and often must figure out a way to pass by each other. The heat of the day is upon us and there is no where to go but up beyond the tree-line. I'm not sure if trees are absent because of the elevation or simply because the surface is far too steep for anything to grip on very well. Either way the sun beats down on us pretty hard as we force ourselves up the steps.

Reaching the saddle, we put on our gloves and wait our turn to start up the cables. While this is not necessarily a matter of rock-climbing, it does requite a fair amount of upper-body strength. The cables are spaced about 4 feet apart and attached to the mountainside via being threaded through the eyes of steel poles that have been drilled into the granite. The pairs of poles are spaced about 12 feet apart and in most cases have a 2 x 4 laid over and attached to the poles. These boards are the saving grace of the climb as it allows adventurers to take a portion of the weight off of their arms periodically. The climb is hard and many of the individuals on the cables, both going up and coming down, are obviously frightened. Rightfully so, a misstep could easily be deadly, but we eventually reach the summit. I wait for my companions and we all take a breather before exploring the much flatter summit. 

The views from up here are truly amazing. A 360 degree view of Yosemite is the reward for our hard work. Looking over the sheer face of Half Dome, one is looking nearly a mile straight down to the valley floor. It is not for the meek or those scared of heights. The day is winding down and after about 45-minutes of relaxing and exploring, we begin to make our way down the cables. Down is easier and much more about control that exertion. The danger is also a bit greater as the granite is very slick. Descending safely is simply a matter of paying close attention to one's contact points and ensuring that one hand is move at at a time.

As we hit the bottom, we agree that we want to get back to the trail head pretty quick and so we push hard. Looking at my Walkmeter application and the ground we are covering, I think we were doing 15 minute miles for a good portion of the return trip. My water is running very low and once we reach Nevada Falls, I pull out the Life Straw that was a Christmas Present a couple of years ago and begin to take refreshment from the cool river passing by.

We decide to take a slightly different path back to the car, which will take us past Vernal Falls. While we are ware that this path is much steeper, it is also about a mile-and-a-half shorter and gives us access to some new landmarks to see. Once we reach the falls, we are rewarded by a cooling mist bouncing off of the rocks. It feels amazing for those of us that sweaty, sore, and tired from a long day's hike.

We arrive back at the car at dusk and take a few minutes to wipe the grit, dirt, and sweat off before heading to the Awanhee to grab a bite to eat. All in all, it was a 21-mile hike and is certainly, one of the most difficult I have ever done. I think everyone really enjoyed themselves though and I would highly recommend this trail to anyone that wants to challenge themselves.

Hunter Creek Falls at Dusk (Washoe County, Nevada)

With a couple of bigger hikes coming up in the near future, I've been trying to get my self in shape and what better way than to do a quick hike up to Hunter Creek Falls after work. While it's an easy trail and I've done (and even blogged) about it in the past, it's just about perfect to start and finish before it gets too dark.

Changing out of my work clothes and throwing some proper hiker-wear on, I arrived at the trail head around 5:30. The trail is well traveled, but tonight seemingly not all that popular. That said I do encounter a couple of groups making their way back to the trail head.

Below the trail, the creek tears a path through the vegetation. Obviously, the recent rain Reno has received has bolstered the local water supply. The rushing stream makes for a nice companion on the way up to the falls. The bounty of the recent rains can also be seen in the huge number and variety of wildflowers all along the trail.

Reaching the falls, I stop for a bit to grab a quick snack and relax before turning around and heading back. As dusk approaches, I reach the trail head to be greeted by a nice view of the lights of Downtown Reno. Only about 6.5 miles in total, but well worth it on a weeknight.

Rubicon Trail in the Rain (El Dorado County, California)

 

Once again, rain has been forecast for most of the immediate area around Reno, but once again, I refuse to let it prevent me from my wanderlust adventures. Meeting up with my friends Linda and Cassie, we make our way up Highway 50 towards Lake Tahoe. This will be Linda's first visit to the late since moving to the area a little over a year ago. While we all know that Tahoe is sunny most of the time, today is pretty overcast. Still, I think she will enjoy the view. 

We drive through South Lake Tahoe and head up to the Vikingsholm parking lot to start a trail I have been trying to do for a couple of months. The Rubicon Trail, not to be confused with the famous 4x4 trail, is a 4.5ish mile trail that traverses the perimeter of Emerald Bay and heads up Tahoe's shoreline towards D.L. Bliss State Park. As we descend down the switchbacks to lake level, Linda expresses concerns with coming back up, but we offer encouragement and continue on.

Arriving at the shoreline, we are faced with multiple forks in the trail, as it meanders in and amount Vikingsholm and the Emerald Bay Boat Campground. Navigation isn't terrible and we quickly find our way. All the while admiring Fannette Island and it's tea house in the center of the bay. What a remarkable structure.

Continuing on, Linda comments on the blueness of the water, to which Cassie and I voice our agreement. It is what Tahoe is known for after all. We make our way across the point and start the final two miles of the trail, only to meet rain turning to small hail. Luckily, we had all packed accordingly and retrieve our rain gear from our respective packs. After some discussion, we decide to turn back towards the car in case the storm gets any worse. 

Luckily as we arrive back at Vikingsholm, the clouds part and the sun begins to shine through once again. We rest for a short time and admire the mansion before heading back up the series of switchbacks towards the car. All in all, we only knocked out a little over six and a half miles, but the views make it all worth while. I plan to try this trail again later in the summer when this persistent overcast and rain shower weather finally depart.