Monday, October 7, 2024

Valley of Fire - Petroglyph Canyon via Mouse's Tank Trail (Clark County, Nevada)

 

The Mouse's Tank area is one of my favorite sections of Valley of Fire State Park. I've hiked this trail probably three or four times during my time living in Nevada and it never disappoints. After parking, I start the short hike in the searing sand and begin making my way to the tank. 

Along the way, I scan the red cliffs covered in desert varnish for the many, many petroglyphs I know are present here. Before long, I spot the first ones and then more, and more. The canyon walls are covered with hundreds of figures - some recognizable, some more alien. Some of the other hikers around me notice me taking pictures and realize what I'm photographing. They begin to scan the walls themselves.

This continues for the short 1/3 mile hike before I reach Mouse's Tank itself. This area is named for a Southern Paiute called Mouse, who hid in this area in the 1890's after being accused of killing two prospectors in the area. Though the history is not clear, it's likely that Mouse was hunted, found, and killed by settlers to the area. The small canyon and water catches at the end now bear his name.

The tank itself at the end of the canyon exists in the shadow of the sandstone and even now at the end of summer and in this sweltering heat is full of water. I imagine Mouse chose this area to hide in specifically because he knew there would be water available. For now though, it's time for me to head back and get to the airport. I have a flight to catch, but it's always great to revisit this place.

Valley of Fire - The Cabins (Clark County, Nevada)


 My next stop in Valley of Fire is not nearly as impressive as some of the others, but still worth mentioning as I've not been here before. According to an information sign the Cabins were constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps shortly after this area was designated as a state park in 1935. Constructed of the native sandstone, they were used to shelter campers and travelers to the park for many years before additional services were added. To be honest, this is not that impressive of a site, but it's interesting and staying in one of these cabins might have been memorable when this site was the only shelter available.

Valley of Fire - Arrowhead Arch (Clark County, Nevada)

For my next stop, I decided to drive another hour or so north to Valley of Fire State Park. I've actually spent a lot of time in this area over the years, but I haven't written about much of it. My first stop is a just short hike off the main road through the park to Arrowhead Arch. Parking my car, I get out into the desert heat. It really is a hot again today, topping 100° once again. My plan is for a few very short hikes, which should hopefully prevent me from getting crazy hot. The trail from the parking area leads south into the desert and requires a minor amount of scrambling, but after only 100 yards or so, I reach my destination. 

The small Arrowhead Arch is actually a double arch. It stands no more than ten feet tall, but undeniably resembles a Native American arrowhead. I've seen many over the years, including some obsidian-rich areas where they were made. There's no doubt why this arch was named this way. I spend a couple of minutes getting shots from different angles before returning to the car.

Hoover Dam (Clark County, Nevada)


 I'm still in Las Vegas and my flight doesn't depart until this evening. After checking out of my hotel, I had to decide what to do with the day. I've visited Hoover Dam in the past, but I've never taken the tour. A manmade natural wonder such as this, seems like a pretty good place to start. The drive from the Strip to Hoover Dam is actually faster than it used to be with the construction of a new freeway and it only takes me about forty minutes to reach the visitors center. 


After parking, I head down through security and get a tour ticket. Given the importance of the dam, both for hydro-electric power and for water downstream, the government has significant security controls in place to ensure the dam's safety. It makes perfect sense and I don't mind. The tour starts with a short video (which seems to have been made in the 1980's) talking about the construction of the dam. The effort to tame the wild Colorado River was a massive undertaking, perhaps the greatest since the Egyptian Pyramids. It's completion is a testament to the will and ingenuity of the American people.

From here, the tour group collects at some windows overlooking the dam and then we head outside to walk to an elevator on the top. Though the mechanical aspects of the elevator have been updated, the aesthetics have been preserved in the style of the 1930's. It gives some personality. We descend in two groups to the power plant area of the dam's interior. Once we have all made it down, our tour guide continues telling us about he power output, the water flow, and several other interesting tidbits about the dam's construction. It's all pretty interesting. Afterwards, we take the elevator back up and end the tour. It's actually pretty short, but it was still rewarding to see the massive construction that is Hoover Dam from the inside.

Sunday, October 6, 2024

Red Rock Canyon - Calico Tanks (Clark County, Nevada)


A couple of years ago, I learned of a canyon west of Las Vegas, Nevada called Brownstone Canyon that was supposedly covered with Native American rock art, both petroglyphs and pictographs. About a year ago, I visited and began searching for a way to reach this canyon. Unfortunately, housing developments in that part of town have closed off the obvious access and I was unable to get there the way I had planned. I'm back in Las Vegas for a concert and decided I would take another crack at it. This time, I'll be attempting to reach the canyon from Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area.

My concert was last night and it was a great show, but now I'm on to the outdoor portion of my trip. I had to reserve a timed entry pass about a month ago. Red Rock Canyon has become a very popular tourist destination for those visiting Las Vegas and to control the crowds, this reservation system was launched some time back. Entering just after 9:00 AM when my reservation allowed, I drive to the Sandstone Quarry parking area and begin to reconsider my plan. I was expecting temperatures in the high-80's today, but it's going to be substantially warmer. Today's high is expected to reach 101° and even now, it's already in the 90's. My planned route will take me up and around the western side of Turtlehead Mountain and then back down the north side to reach Brownstone Canyon. This is a rugged route with a lot of pathfinding and rock scrambling and I'm just not sure today is the day to do it, given the heat. Considering my options, I decide to abandon my original plan and instead hike to the Calico Tanks area of the park, which is a much shorter hike.

Leaving the parking area, I follow the marked trail, which follows a gravel wash into the red and orange sandstone tangles. Before long, the trail loops to the right and begins to ascend. With the sun beating down, I'm thinking that I made the correct choice. The trail is marked by piles of rocks collected in a chicken-wire cylinder and with a signed post sticking out of it. The park service does a pretty good job of marking it, but considering the three-dimensional nature of this trail as it ascends sandstone cliffs, it's still a bit challenging to find the right path at times.


There are quite a few people hiking this area today, even with the heat. I guess it's one of the better options. I continue on climbing several sets of fashioned stone steps and scrambling up sections of the red stone. Finally, I reach the largest of the Calico Tanks. During some parts of the year, this 'tank' catches rain water and holds it for some time, but here at the end of Summer, it is completely dry, though wild grasses growing in the formerly submerged soil give testament to the water that was here not that long ago. I take a short rest and spend some time examining a patch of dye on one of the rocks that forms the close side of the tank. It looks like the same type of pigment used by the ancient peoples of this area to create their pictographs, but this one doesn't have any form that I can recognize or make sense of. I use a few photo filters hoping to discern some kind of image, but never really do and after a few minutes give up the investigation.


From here, I follow where I've seen a few others climb up the eastern side of the tank. It's a bit sketchy, but I assume there's a good view from up there. It's a challenging scramble, but reaching the top, I see that it's worth it. From up here, we have a magnificent view of the whole Las Vegas Valley. The mega-resorts of the Las Vegas Strip rise in the distance. I take a few minutes to enjoy the view before heading back.

The return trip is similarly challenging due to all of the scrambling and with the sun rising higher in the sky, the temperatures are getting even warmer. I wish I could adventure more in this place, but I just don't think it would be prudent given the hot weather. I return to my rental car having hiked about 2.4 miles total. I'll have to try again (next time in the winter) to reach Brownstone Canyon. For now, I'll settle for the short hike I got in today.

Sunday, September 22, 2024

Grandfather Mountain (Avery County, North Carolina)

 

I've tried a couple of times in the past to visit Grandfather Mountain, but in all cases, inclement weather has put a damper on the trip. We did get some rain yesterday afternoon, but I'm hopeful that this won't interfere with my plans too much. Grandfather Mountain was once thought (by colonists) to be the tallest mountain east of the Mississippi. It includes four major peaks, the highest of which is 5,946 feet. Later it was determined that the nearby Mount Mitchell actually holds this distinction. However, Grandfather Mountain is still a draw because of its ruggedness and prominence. 

After entering the park, I head to the parking area. Along the way, I find a pull-off that provides a great view of the two highest peaks and stop for a couple of pictures. Continuing up the winding road, a traffic director motions me into one of the parking areas and explains how to get to the "Mile-high Swinging Bridge" and the other trail system.

I park my car, grab my pack and start formulating a plan for the day. I had some ideas of what I wanted to do here, but with time constraints and the somewhat wet ground from yesterdays downpour, I'm rethinking the plan. Originally, I was going to hike the 10.5 mile profile trail. However, that plan required starting around 7:30 AM. At the time I made the plan, I didn't realize the park didn't open until 9:00 AM. 

To start, I decide to hike the half-mile or so up to the swinging bridge and then possibly continue on along the Grandfather Trail, which visits all of the peaks. I'll wing it. The short trail from the parking area is fairly steep and has a lot of stones and roots to navigate, but it's generally pretty easy. Arriving at the top, another parking lot leads to stairs up to the swinging bridge, which spans 228-feet above an 80-foot gorge separating two of the mountains smaller peaks. I cross over it without any issues. Though I'm not a huge fan of heights, the bridge seems pretty stable and only sways slightly with six or so people on it. Near the middle, I line is painted indicating the 1-mile elevation mark.

Reaching the other side, I start a short rock-scramble up to a view point. There area a number of people up here already and after stopping to look around, I can see why. The view here is absolutely spectacular. The bluish-green sea that is Appalachia spreads out in all directions from me. It's actually pretty breathtaking. 

Crossing back over the bridge, I decide to continue with my plan to hike the Grandfather Trail I know this one is pretty intense and even requires a self-issued permit to hike. I'm a bit concerned about wet and slippery trail conditions, but I'll judge it as a I go. I toss my scrambling gloves on as I depart the upper parking lot and climb up the rugged first part of the trail through granite boulders. 


Once at the top of this 'pitch', the trail flattens out for a short time, but it is a little muddy, which has me concerned. I continue on over a number of rugged rock outcroppings. The write-ups weren't kidding; this trail is intense. Reaching Grandfather Gap, I take a minute to do a self-inventory and decide how much further I want to go. The first, and second-tallest, of the peaks is about a mile way and I convince myself to attempt this one, but to turn back if the conditions get too slick. I want to climb it, but it's not worth injuring myself.

The first really big obstacle that I have to overcome is climbing a wet granite wall of about forty feet and at a roughly 45° angle. The park has installed a knotted steel cable to assist and I carefully make my way up it, second-guessing myself along the way. I reach the top though and decide to continue a little further. 


From there, the trail continues to climb over rocks and boulders until it reaches a long, wooden ladder up another steep cliff. I start the climb up and after a few steps on the wet and slippery ladder decide that today isn't my day. I'd love to complete this trail, but the wet conditions are just too concerning to me and I decide to turn back.

The climb back down the cable is an adventure, but again, I make it without any problems and eventually hit the Grandfather Extension Trail, which leads to the lot where I left my car. I've only hiked about 2.5 miles and I would love to do more, but other adventures await and I'm just not convinced that this one is safe with the muddy, wet conditions on the rugged trail. It was a lot of fun though and the views are some of the best in this part of the country.

Otter Falls (Watauga County, North Carolina)

 

After a decent night's sleep at my hotel in Newland, I'm ready for the next adventure. The focus of my trip is Grandfather Mountain, but as the gates don't open until 9:00 AM, I decided to visit the nearby Otter Falls first. It's only a few minutes drive to the trailhead and I arrive to find only one other car in the parking lot. 

The trail is actually pretty rugged at first, full of roots and heading steeply downhill. Soon though, it eases up. There is something of a tangle of trails here though and I'm forced to use my mapping app to determine the best route to the waterfall. I get there without too much difficulty. A small deck sits above the creek as Otter Falls flows over a large boulder separated mostly into two small trickles. I imagine this waterfall is more impressive after a good rain, but for today, it's less so. The hike back up gets me breathing a little bit, but I arrive back at the car without any issue and now with it being nearly time for the gates to open, it's time to head to my main focus.