Chattahoochee River - Suwanee Creek Unit (Gwinnett County, Georgia)

 

Today, I decided to join the Atlanta Outdoor Club for a hike in the Suwanee Creek Unit of the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area. I've hiked many of the park units, but this one was unknown to me, even though it's very close to my home. The hike organizer mentioned that this unit is undeveloped and has no official trails or parking area. 

I met the organizer and two other hikers in the corner of a nearby grocery store, where we had agreed to leave our cars for the hike. After a sprinting across Peachtree Industrial Drive due to a malfunctioning crosswalk light, we walked a short distance through a pleasant neighborhood before reaching the entrance to the park unit. There is an old sign here, but all of the print has either worn off or was removed. 

The trail begins as a dirt road, which followed a short ways before ducking into some side trails that had been cut by someone, perhaps one of the many residents of the nearby neighborhood. The hike organizer mentioned that he had scouted the trails out prior to this event and had good idea of the route he planned to take. We followed his lead and were treated to some nice, but pretty standard trails through the woods. With most of the trees still barren of leaves, we could see quite some distance across the landscape. It was nice.

After completing a small loop on the western side of the dirt road, we headed towards the confluence of Suwanee Creek and the Chattahoochee River. Here we crossed an old concrete bridge, which seemed sturdy, but likely hasn't been used in years. Now it acts as a canvas for graffiti. 

From there, we walked alongside the Chattahoochee for a short distance, even climbing down an earthen bank to examine some kind of abandoned crane apparatus. The trail continued to loop around until we found ourselves back at the dirt road. 

The bulk of our miles put in, we headed back through the neighborhood towards our cars. Overall, it was a nice little hike of just about 5.2 miles. I have to compliment the organizer for having explore the trails so thoroughly before posting the event and for maintaining a strong pace for the hike, which was a pleasant surprise.

Parade of the Planets (Gwinnett County, Georgia)

 

*Note - Credit to Google for the above image

For the past few weeks, the seven other planets of our solar system (Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus, and Neptune) have been aligning themselves on the same side of the sun. The effect of this is the ability to see all seven of them in the same night sky. From everything I had read, February 28th, would be the night to witness this 'parade of the planets'. Though I did make an effort to witness this event while on Cumberland Island last weekend, the clouds did not cooperate. Tonight, however, is blessed with clear skies.

After getting done with my last conference call for work about 5:30pm, I drove over to the nearby Little Mulberry Park, which is home to the highest point in Gwinnet County. A short walk from my car up the paved trail and then into an open field with a walled stone patio at the top, provided a great spot to witness tonight's astronomical rarity. There were quite a few people here for the event and I chatted with several of them while observing the heavens.

As the sun set in the southwest, I tried my best to locate Saturn and Mercury, which were following close behind, but the sunset was still too bright. Neptune came next, but was too distant to see with the naked eye and residual sunlight. I did try my new binoculars, but no luck. Soon though, the bright shimmer of Venus became quite apparent in the dark blue sky. Directly overhead, mighty Jupiter soon came into view, and a short time later the red shimmer of Mars began it's march across the sky. I searched for Uranus, which should have been slightly ahead of Jupiter, but was unable to locate it. 

After about an hour enjoying the spectacle, chatting with fellow astronomy enthusiasts, and just taking in a beautiful evening, I decided to call it a night and head back to the car. I startled a few deer on my way down the path, but they quickly went back to their business. What a wonderful world we live in to be able to witness something like this. 

Cumberland Island - Sea Camp (Camden County, Georgia)

I'm leading a group of novice campers on a trip to Cumberland Island for the weekend. It's a long drive from my home near Atlanta, and so, I drove most of the way last night and then finished the route this morning before meeting my three other adventurers at the Cumberland Island Ferry in St. Marys, Georgia. I had been in contact with the others over the last couple of weeks to ensure they brought the appropriate gear and understood what to expect on the island. Everyone, including myself, seemed excited about our weekend excursion.

At the appropriate time, we boarded they ferry and settled in for the 45-minute ride over to Sea Camp dock, which is the main entry point to Cumberland Island. This will be my third (I think) trip to this island, but the first for a couple of my companions. Once the ferry docks, we grab out gear and disembark. It's a short half-mile hike to the Sea Camp campground from the dock. Our agreed upon plan is to first head to our campsite and set up our tents and sleep systems. While getting things set up, we are visited by one of the many, many armadillo that inhabit this little paradise. I give it a gentle nudge with my boot to encourage it to move away from our campsite.

We're able to get all of that done without incident and I'm able to help a couple of the others with some of the finer points of setting up a tent and/or inflating a sleeping pad. By two o'clock or so, we're all settled in our campsite and I suggest we walk out to the beach. This is one of my favorite features of Cumberland island and most of the barrier islands in general. I'm not a 'resort beach' person, but seeing miles of completely undeveloped beach stretching as far as my eyes can see is quite appealing. We head out and follow the short trail and boardwalk over the sand dunes until we reach the white sandy beaches and the Atlantic Ocean spreads out before us all the way to the horizon.

We walk a couple of miles north up the beach, collecting shells and admiring the birds that feed here. It's a bit windy with the waves rolling in, but the temperature is quite comfortable with a fleece on. Everyone seems to be having a fantastic time. Eventually, we find a large flock of small waterfowl spread out all across the beach and decide it is a good time to turn around. 

Once back at camp, we get a fire started and prepare our individual dinners. The fire starts out pretty well, but soon a collapse of the logs puts it in jeopardy. I'm rather indifferent to the fire, but one of the others is determined to see it blaze again. She spends a huge amount of time and effort in this endeavor, but eventually surrenders. 

I had mentioned that there was a planetary alignment underway and we decide to head back out to the beach in the dark and take in what we can see. While we're able to spot Mars, Jupiter, and Venus, the cloud cover we had earlier in the day soon returns and blocks our view. Ah well, we tried.

Heading back to our campsite, we catch site of a opossum on the way. Soon, we're back at camp and everyone decides to turn in. We crawl into our respective tents and start up a movie, or audio book, or whatever we each enjoy. The night passes and I'm able to get a good nights sleep. It didn't even get as cold as expected.

When I rise in the morning, I'm surprised by how warm it is. I was expecting temperatures in the low 40°'s, but it feels more like the higher end of that zone. I change into some fresh cloths and crawl out of my tent. After a quick trip to the recently refurbished restrooms, which are just a short walk away, I get some tea going and begin to prepare my breakfast. The others are doing similar chores. After our meal, we begin to break down camp. Our plan for the day is to explore the southern part of the island on foot and get a few miles in the process. 

After dropping out gear at the dock, we head south along the main road (which is nothing more than compressed soil and sand) towards the Dungeness Ruins. What remains of this expansive mansion was once home to a branch of the wealthy Carnegie Family, but it was destroyed by fire in 1959. The ruins and what remains of the city that was home to the mansions support staff are maintained in a state of arrested decay by the National Park Service. We spend some time walking around the ruins and nearby community, and discussing how these people were dedicated to serving their wealthy employers. We also discuss how poorly this would likely be perceived in today's culture.

After the ruins, we continue south through the palmetto and live oak forest until we reach the raised boardwalk through the salt marshes. The tide is out and the oyster beds are revealed. A number of birds, including a long-legged egret, search the mud for their sustenance. I've asked everyone to be on the lookout for wild horses that roam the island and finally we encounter some as we leave the marshes and head for the beach. We see five in total. The first three require us to do some light bushwhacking, but we stumble on the remaining two without trying. Majestic animals, but they live a hard life out here on this island.

Hitting the beach, we head north and decide to have some lunch on the white sands. I only brought some cashews, but it should be enough to hold me over. A couple of seagulls pace nearby, looking for an easy meal. Soon, we head back into the woods and north along the Parallel Trail, which runs parallel to the main road.

A mile or so in, we hit a crossroads and head back towards the ocean and a shelter we had spotted yesterday. It serves as a great spot for a short rest break. From there, we turn back south the way we came and eventually back out to the Sea Camp Dock. Now, we just have an hour or so to wait for the boat to carry us and our gear home. In the mean time, we are assaulted by hordes of 'no-see-ums', which are tiny biting gnats that congregate where they know people be. I do my best to protect my skin from these little bastards, but I'm sure I'll have number of whelps tomorrow. Our total hike today was a slow and leisurely 7.5 miles. 

The ferry soon arrives and we scramble to get a table inside for the ride home. Back at the St. Mary's dock, everyone thanks me for organizing the trip and we go our separate ways to return to our homes. I think everyone really enjoyed the weekend.

Fort King George (McIntosh County, Georgia)

 

I have organized a camping trip on Cumberland Island this weekend and posted it as an event on the Meetup that I often lead hikes for. As it's a long drive to the southern end of Georgia and we have to catch a ferry over to the island, I drove to Savannah and spent the night there last night. This morning, I have to finish the drive and make my way to St. Mary's, but as I have some extra time before the ferry departs, I decided to check out the historical site of Fort King George.

This fort was built in 1721 by the British, as the southernmost safeguard against the Spanish. It is situated on what is now known as the Darien River, which sneaks through the salt marshes of this part of the country. From what I've read, life was miserable at this post. Between insects, unbearable humidity, and constant flooding, the inhabitants of the fort lost 140 of their numbers without ever having seen battle.

The state of Georgia has reconstructed the fort to the original specifications and it now serves as a historic site. It includes replica canon batteries, the bunkhouse, main headquarters, blacksmith, bakery, and even the original mote that surrounded the fortification. As I walk around the facility, I'm amazed at how much detail was put into this recreation. I also try to put myself in the place of those British soldiers that lived in this most remote of outposts. It's really a wonderful site and I would encourage anyone to check it out.

Appalachian Trail - Hogpen Gap to Neels Gap/Walasi Yi + (White County, Georgia)

 

I'm taking advantage of the President's Day holiday to continue my quest to hike all sections of the Georgia portion of the Appalachian Trail. Today, I'm going to knock out a pretty tough section and as I have been doing for most of these hikes, I posted it as an event on the Meetup group that I occasionally lead hikes for. Four other brave souls decided to join me. We'll be starting at Hogpen Gap and hiking southbound (actually west directionally) along the AT. We'll pass through the old stone hostel (now a store) known as Walasi Yi at Neels Gap and continue the climb up Blood Mountain until we reach the junction with the Byron Reese Trail. At that point, we'll turn around and retrace our steps back to the cars.

It's a cold, windy morning at Hogpen Gap. I arrived about twenty minutes before the start of the hike and the others start showing up shortly thereafter. We do our customary round of introductions and I go over the plan with everyone. I make sure they are aware, both through the description I posted for the event and through my verbal description to them now, of what they are getting themselves into. Everyone claims to be good to go.

We hit the trail and immediately start a steep incline and then back down the other side, which is even steeper toward Tesnatee Gap. That climb back up is going to be challenging on the way back. The air temperature is around 28° and depending on our position on the mountainside, the winds might blow up to 30-40 mph, which makes for a frigid start. The icicles dangling from exposed rock faces attest to the cold. There are also many examples of what I've termed "ice strands" on the ground along the trail. These are small filaments of ice that have frozen into some that looks like a hair brush. I assume they form as water droplets are blown from the ground and frozen in mid-air, but I'm no expert. They are quite pretty though.

From the parking area at Tesnatee Gap, we begin the ascent of Cowrock Mountain and stop for a nice view once we reach the top. From here, we can see far off into the distance with the Southern Appalachian range filling the frame all the way to the horizon. It's pretty stunning. Already though, these steep climbs are starting to get to some of my hikers and a couple of them start falling behind a bit. Hopefully, they'll catch up.

During the next four miles or so, the trail undulates the steep ups and downs of the ridge, until eventually dropping us out at Walasi Yi. This stone structure was built in the 1930's by a logging company and has been used for many functions over the decades. Currently, it serves as hostel and resupply store for AT through-hikers. We decide to stop here for lunch, as it provides a wind break for us. We also take time to visit the store. I didn't really need to buy anything, but I'm here and wanted to see what it was all about. 

After a short break, we begin the hike up Blood Mountain, the highest point on the Georgia AT and sixth highest peak in Georgia. I have summited Blood Mountain by means of all existing trails, including from the Byron Reese Trailhead, which is about a half-mile up the road from here. Unfortunately, there is a small section of the AT between Walasi Yi and the junction of that trail with the AT that I had not previously hiked. So, this was my best opportunity to knock this small section out. Everyone was on board with this plan when we started, but one of the ladies that was hiking was struggling to keep up a little bit and decided to turn back from the store. We wished her well.

The rest of us began the ascent. It's only about mile up and back, but it's fairly steep. We knock it out pretty quickly though and then start on the return journey. We're all pretty tired by this point, but as a joke, I tell the others that they are welcome to summit Blood Mountain if they want, but that I won't be waiting for them. My comment gets a couple of laughs.

Our hike back is fairly uneventful, though the other gentleman that was hiking with us fell far behind and raised some concern. I explained to the others that I wouldn't leave the trailhead parking area until either he had made it back or I had called for help. That last climb was very challenging as expected and it tore all of us up pretty well. Arriving back at the parking area, we ended up with 15.1 miles and nearly 3,900 ft of elevation gain and loss. This was definitely a butt-kicker, but I'm glad to have it done.

The others thank me for organizing and start their drives home. I hop in my car and begin to listen to an audio book while I wait for the last gentleman. I would have probably started hiking back to look for him, but my legs are shot at this point. After about twenty minutes, he showed up. Apparently, he decided to road walk around the mountain from Tesnatte Gap to here to save time. He thanks me for waiting for him and check to make sure he's okay before departing. Now, to head home and relax.

Arabia Mountain Championship Hike (DeKalb County, Georgia)

Originally, I was planning to run a 5k this morning, but a couple of days ago, I saw a posting that the Arabia Mountain Rangers were hosting a Championship Hike themed after the NFL's Superbowl, which takes place tomorrow. As I'm training for some very big hikes later this year, the appeal of hiking 20 miles instead of running just over 3 seems obvious.

I arrived at the designated meeting area, Wilburn Farm, to something a bit unexpected. In the field near where I parked my car, there were a number of middle-aged and some elderly people in a standing in a circle and sharing their memories of a man named Tyrone. As I would later learn, Tyrone had been a ranger at Arabia Mountain for many years and had been an inspiration to many of these individuals to start their interest in hiking. He passed away in December and the other rangers had organized this celebration of life just before the planned hike. I felt a little out of place, as I did not know the man, but from all of the stories, he seemed like a wonderful human being.

While the start time was listed as 9:00 am, we didn't actually get moving until almost 9:30 am and then at a pretty slow pace. Since I'm in this for the miles, I moved to the front and began pushing the pace a bit. After walking a couple hundred yards up the road from the retired farmhouse, we dove east into the woods along what seemed nothing more than a game trail. The rangers seemed to know where they were going though and soon we came a cross a small trickle of a creek that seemed to disappear into the ground at one point. The ranger pointed out a large cracked boulder and encouraged us to move closer to it. Once there, it was easy to hear the water running through and beneath the feature, known as Melody Rock. The water came back out and continued down the hillside through the later winter ground cover.

From there, we made our way across several granite slicks, which this entire area is known for. We had to be a little cautious as the morning dew makes this granite somewhat treacherous to walk on, but we made it without incident. After about a mile, we walked across the dam forming Arabia Lake and then north to another retired farmhouse now owned by the National Heritage Area. At this point, the rangers switched and the original organizer, an enthusiastic young man, took over the lead spot and we made our way first further north and then east across a large open field, finally hitting the paved paths alongside Klondike Road. 

I had mentioned our slow pacing and the impossibility of hitting the 20-mile goal by the designated 4:00 pm end time. He was patient and suggested that we would move faster now that we're on the pavement. I wasn't trying to be a pain about it, but as I had changed my plans specifically to do what was advertised, I wanted to do my best to reach the goal.

We followed the path all the way to the Nature Center, where we took a short break and allowed hikers to use the restroom and refill their water. Though it was only supposed to be a five minute break, it turned into more like fifteen minutes, again adding to my frustration. Soon though were were once again moving and now headed the wooded northern end of Arabia Mountain itself. We kept a pretty good pace through the woods and soon ended up on the granite outcropping, where we had to be cautious with our steps so as not to crush the sprouting diamorpha smallii, an endangered small red plant that this area is known for. 

Walking up to the shallow summit of the short mountain, we paused for a few minutes to take in the view, before heading further east to circle around Mountain Lake. Leaving the granite on our way to the lake, we encountered an abandoned community in the woods, with the foundations and chimneys of at least two long-forgotten homes remaining. There is also a well dug near one of the houses, which the rangers have covered with branches in an attempt to keep anyone from falling in. Though little is know about who and when these houses were built and occupied, it is assumed that this area was once cleared and that quarry workers and their families resided here back in the late 1800's. I do enjoy coming across things like this.

After circling the lake, we climbed up somewhat steep eastern slope to the top of Bradley Mountain, which is the highest point of the trip. Again, we took far too long four our break and I began to have substantial doubt that we would be able to finish the hike. Though the views were beautiful and I always enjoy the barren granite desert that is this area, I was ready to move. We pushed on and crossed back over the road and made our way towards Wilburn Farm, the starting area. The rangers plan was to crisscross the Heritage Area through a series of loops, returning to the area we parked every five or so miles. This would give those unable or uninterested in continuing a chance to depart. 

Though, I really wanted to continue and finish the entire twenty miles it was already almost 3:00 pm and we had only hiked 11 miles. As I have other plans this evening and need to get cleaned up beforehand, I explained my situation to the ranger and thanked him for organizing. He suggested that he had misjudged a few things and that next year he may organize this as two sperate events, a challenging hike that holds to the pace and a more leisurely hike. I thought that was a great plan and with that too my leave. 

St Phillips Island - Turner House Expedition (Beaufort County, South Carolina)

 I'm spending a couple of days with the Coastal Expeditions crew at the house built by Ted Turner on St. Phillips Island, which is now part of South Carolina's Hunting Island State Park. I've been on two previous trips with this organization and while they have been incredibly professional and the trips were both great, some incontrollable event on each required drastic changes to the plan. Hopefully, that won't be the case this weekend. 

I drove down from the Atlanta area last night and stayed at a nearby hotel. After checking out the nearby Fort Fremont, I headed over to the meeting place. Once I checked in and took my gear out to the boat, I met several of the other participants and we began chatting. It's a cold, wet morning and while it isn't actually raining, the dense fog has left condensation on nearly everything. Once the last participant arrives, we walk back out to the boat and our captain begins to ferry us to the island. 

The boat ride over is wet and cold, but we have all brought layers and stay warm enough. Along the way, we would normally be treated to views of the salt marshes and perhaps some wildlife, but today the fog is too thick. Luckily, our captain knows the route very well and we have no problems, though he is surprised to encounter a barge with some heavy construction equipment being pushed through the fog by a small tug boat. We easily avoid the other craft. After about 45-minutes, we shoot inland on a small creek and shortly thereafter arrive at the dock.

Once we move our gear from the boat to the truck, we step aboard a open-air people mover that will be towed by the truck and we're soon being ferried through the undeveloped island towards the Turner House. As with all of these barrier islands, there is a lot beauty here. Various types of palmettos rise from the ground under a canopy of live oaks and magnolia trees adorned with dangling Spanish moss. Numerous bird varieties dart to-and-fro above our heads while filling the air with their chirps and songs. 

After about 25-minutes, we arrive at the house. While it's a large structure, it's not overly gaudy and looks like it will suit us quite well. As we meet the rest of the crew that will be with us this weekend, we are lead into the kitchen and dining room where a lunch of grilled cheese and tomato soup has been thoughtfully prepared for us. During lunch, we are given our room assignments. Most of the clients on this trip are elderly couples. Only myself and one other elderly lady are alone. The crew asks if I would mind staying in the caretaker's house just across the yard. I would have the entire dwelling to myself and it's accommodations are similar to the main house. I gladly accept and after finishing my sandwich carry my gear over to my room.

Having given us a little time to settle into our weekend quarters, we reconvene for a hike along the beach a bit into the island's interior. It's an especially low tide today and we are able to walk way out onto areas that would normally be under water. As we walk and the waters of the Atlantic Ocean roll several yards from us, our guides tell us of the history of the island and point out various wildlife species that we encounter. They are all very knowledgeable and it's a great experience. 

The hike was about 4.5 miles and included some of the inland trails, but before too long, we're back at the house. The crew prepares some appetizers for us while they begin to fix dinner. The rest of us sit in the living room or on the expansive deck and just get to know each other a bit. Everyone here seems very nice and it's interesting to discuss our collective travels.

With dinner prepared, we head into the dining room to enjoy some pulled pork barbeque ,mac 'n cheese, collard greens, and other fixin's. It's all quite delicious. During our meal, our captain, explains the agenda for tomorrow, which will begin with an optional sunrise viewing and then campfire coffee. The fog is supposed to clear tomorrow and he has a plan to take us back out on the boat and circumnavigate the small island.

After dinner, we head out to the fire for a bit before turning in. I make my short walk over to the other house and decide to try and sleep in my sleeping bag on the large hammock on the deck. It's comfortable enough and I think I would really have to work at it to fall out, but every time I toss and turn, I get the sensation of falling and it wakes me from my half-conscious state. About an hour of that is all I can take, I give up and head inside to the bed.

Waking early, I dress and head out to see the sunrise. It's cool this morning, but the fog has left us and it should be beautiful way to start the day. A short dock stretches out into the water about halfway between the caretaker's house and the main house, and seems a great spot to welcome the sun. The color scheme is fantastic as the glowing orange star slowly rises above the horizon and I feel renewed.

For breakfast, we are offered biscuits and gravy (though more sausage than gravy), pimento cheese grits, pancakes, fresh fruit, and a few other items. It's all very good and we fill up. After breakfast, we're offered a few minutes to freshen up and then we reconvene near the house and are transported back to the dock via six-seat golf carts. We walk back onto the boat and are soon making our way around the island.

The weather is much better today and we're offered expansive views of this coastal environment. Along the way, we see a large group of white pelicans sunning themselves on a sandbar in the distance. I use the zoom of my phone's camera to get the best picture I can, but it's still not great. 

Further along, we encounter a number of dolphins. Some of them even want to surf the wake of the boat as we race south around the island. The captain obliges them and three or four of them follow us a good distance leaping through the waves created by the boat. These animals are so fast in the water. It's amazing!

The captain takes around the southern tip of neighboring Bay Point Island and then north into the salt marshes to complete our trip around the island. At one point, we encountered a large pod of dolphins in a shallow bay. We cut the engines and just watched them for a few minutes. Such beautiful creatures.

Back at the dock, we are treated to an oyster roast and chili. These guys take really good care of us. I'm not the biggest fan of roasted oysters, as I don't think they have much flavor, but even I enjoy a few of them. Some of the others in the group, who are from the region, think of this as a feast and tear through one cluster after the next. Good times are had by all.

After our feast, we start hiking back towards the house on the Long Pond Trail. While this is the longest hiking trail on the island, it still only visits a small percentage of the overall environment. We are treated to an education by the captain, who also serves as a naturalist, as we make our way back. I've been a little disappointed to not see any alligators on this trip so far and no sooner had that thought entered my head, do we see our one and only example the whole weekend. Along the trail and sitting alongside a murky puddle, a gator maybe four-feet long is out sunning himself. I'm sure he's nervous with all of these people so near him, but he shows no sign of flinching. We take our pictures and make our way back to the house. Total distance was about 2.9 miles for this hike.

Prior to dinner, we head out to enjoy the sunset, which turns the sky and wispy clouds to the southwest into a fire in the sky, complete with the silhouette of palm trees. Dinner tonight consists of a low country boil, which we enjoy out on the deck. Everyone seems to be having a great time and we discuss the day's sitings and events. It's been a great day.

After dinner and enjoying the firepit for a while, I head back to the caretakers house and turn in. It's hard to believe that our weekend is almost over, but tomorrow, we will be heading back to the mainland and reality. 

I decide to sleep in a bit today and don't head over to the main house until it's nearly time for breakfast. I did go ahead and strip my bed though and pack my bags to prepare for our departure. Breakfast is similar to yesterday and we all discuss how much we've enjoyed the trip. 

We load our bags into the truck and then enjoy one last hike on the Half-way Trail. Unfortunately, I have to be on a conference call related to a big trip I'm doing later this year during the hike and miss most of the education and comradery. The hike is beautiful though and we snuck in another 3 miles.

With our expedition complete, we load back into the people mover and are transported back to the dock and boat, before launching and making. Along the way, we are treated to a dish called 'chicken bog' for lunch. It's pretty good and almost requires a hot sauce to be dashed over the top of it. It's actually pretty good. Arriving back at our original departure point, we say our goodbyes and thank Coastal Expeditions for a fantastic weekend. It really was great and I hop to do something like this again at some point.