Red Top Mountain - Homestead Trail (Bartow County, Georgia)

Not content with the mileage I just hiked at nearby Pine Mountain, I decided to stop by Red Top Mountain for a few more miles on my own. On the previous hike, I was leading a group and so, had to go a bit slower and stop occasionally for participants to catch up. While I don't mind doing that at all, I really want to stretch my legs a bit and since I'm by myself for this hike, I intend to do just that. 

Parking my car at the visitor's center, I start up the Sweetgum Trail, which leads to the Homestead Trail, which is the primary one I plan to hike. This trial follows the contours of the peninsula and teases views of the bluish-green waters of Lake Allatoona, which was created by damming the Etowah River. The trails here are incredibly well maintained and I'm a little surprised by how little underbrush grows in these pine forests. It's nice though. 

I'm pushing myself to a walk at a 3.75ish mph pace as I wander along this beautiful trail. Along the way, I pass a number of other hikers and I hear a couple of them comment about how fast I'm moving. I just yell back that I'm training, which is actually true. I chew the landscape though at this pace and before long, I'm back at my car. Total distance for this short addition to my hiking day is about 3.7 miles. Not bad - I would have liked more, but I need to get home for dinner with my family.

Pine Mountain via Coopers Furnace (Bartow County, Georgia)

After leaving the Etowah Mounds site, I drove the short distance to where I plan to start the hike I'm leading today for the Meetup, Coopers Furnace Recreational Area. I discovered this trail a few years ago and have hiked it several times since then. The owner of the Meetup that I often lead for has been asking me to post this one for a few months as one of the standard Sunday hikes, he normally leads. I tried to do this a couple of months ago, but ended up canceling due to heavy rains. Rescheduling to today, lets see how the others enjoy this hike to the summit of Pine Mountain and beyond.

When I arrive there are already a dozen or so hikers assembling and they wave as I park my car. After circling everyone up, we do our customary round of introductions and I explain the hike a little bit. This is possibly one notch above the normal Sunday hikes in terms of difficult as there is more elevation gain than is normal, but everyone seems to understand and feel up to the challenge. With that, we pass by the actual Coopers Furnace and begin making our way up the gravel road towards the side trail that will take us to the summit.

This trail is a essentially a long straight way leading to a figure-eight system, with the summit of Pine Mountain being near the center of the eight and only requiring a short spur trail to reach. As this is a Sunday hike, I try to keep my pace a little slower, though my legs and feet seem to want to move. We stop and wait for everyone to catch up at each intersection and soon, we're making our way up to the summit. 

It's not terribly hot today, but is really, really humid and most of us look like we've been in the swimming pool with our cloths by the time we reach the top. Last time I was up here we were attacked by yellow-jackets, but as there is no sign of the stinging little bastards today, we decide to take a quick lunch break and enjoy the view. Only a couple of years ago, much of the brush was cleared out up here and it allows a much better panoramic view of the area. In the distance, we can see Kennesaw Mountain and nearby Vineyard Mountain and Lake Allatoona.

After a few minutes, we head back to the trail and make our way down the much rockier western loop. I stop a few times as people fall behind. This side is definitely more challenging than the eastern side, but it's necessary to hike it to get the full experience and mileage. Back at the top by the spur trail, we start making our way down completing the final arc of the figure eight and then the straightaway back to the parking area.

As we complete the hike, most of the participants speak of how much they really enjoyed this trail and I think it will likely be added to the normal rotation the Sunday leader usually follows. Our total distance was about 7.4 miles. Some of the folks are going to dinner together, but I want to get a few more miles in before driving home. We say our goodbyes and drive off to our respective destinations.

Etowah Mounds (Bartow County, Georgia)

I'm leading a hike for the Meetup today near Cartersville and decided to drive up a little early and revisit the Etowah Mounds site, which I visited very shortly after moving to Georgia. I really enjoy studying and experience Native American culture and as this site is only a few miles from today's hiking location, it seemed a great stop. 

This earthen mound complex consists of at least six constructed mounds, which are believed to have been built by the Mississippian Culture here near the Etowah River starting around 1000 CE. This is in line with the much larger site of Cahokia, near where I grew up. The Etowah site includes three large mounds and three smaller mounds, along with a central plaza, a defensive ditch, a fishing weir, and other related structures. 

As I walk around the site among the larger mounds, I can't help but think of life here a thousand years ago. What were these people like. What were their dreams and aspirations. Perhaps most importantly, what happened to them? It is believed they abandoned the site when the Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto and others began encroaching on the area. 

I take a few minutes to walk to the top of the largest of the mounds up the provided (modern) staircase. From the top, there is a wonderful view of the complex and the nearby river. It is thought this was where the chief lived, which is probably a reasonable assumption. How much I would like to time-travel and see this community at it's peak all those centuries ago. For now, I'm left with only what my imagination can invent.

Volkswanderung - Helen to Unicoi (White County, Georgia)

Last spring, I stumbled across this little event on Facebook and had a great time with the short hike and German festival afterwards. I mean how could I go wrong with hiking and beer involved. Anyway, I decided to post it as an event on the Meetup this year and four other hikers showed up to join me. We met at the restaurant in Helen known as Bodensee and after checking in, we stepped outside of the noisy building to do a quick round of introductions and so that I could explain the agenda for the day.

Before long, we were making our way through the streets of the quaint little Bavarian-themed town of Helen on our way to the trailhead, which was only a quarter-mile or so from the restaurant. Soon, we were in the woods hiking along Smith Creek, a tributary to the Chattahoochee. Everyone seemed in good spirits and we kept a solid pace as we made our way up towards the Unicoi Lodge, which is the turn around point. I've hiked this little trail a few times over the years, and while not very challenging, it is a very pleasant walk. It's especially nice this time of year with the green hues of spring in full effect.

Once we hit the lodge, we checked in with the event organizers and took a few minutes to rest and refresh ourselves on the patio. Temperatures are great today, but it is a little humid, as we're expecting storms later this afternoon. I had been watching the weather very closely the last 24-hours or so and I'm pretty confident that we can finish our hike before the downpour begins.

Now refreshed and rehydrated, we began making our way back the way we came. The event's hike offers two options - a 5k and a 10k. Of course, we chose the 10k, which simply goes from the restaurant to the lodge and back. Not long after hitting the trail, I spot a small black creature on the trail ahead of me and leaning down to examine it, I find a rarely-seen in daylight ring-neck snake. This little critter is only about six or seven inches long and smaller than the barrel of a pencil with regards to girth. He's startled, but hangs out long enough for me to snap a picture before he slithers under some nearby leaves. 

Just a little further down the trail, we spot a blackish mother duck crossing the trail with her ducklings waddling quickly behind. They make for the waters of the creek as we approach. We check around to ensure none were left behind, but soon they all disappear in the waterway. Cute little things, they are. 

With the bulk of the hike complete, we return to the streets of Helen and drop our packs off at our respective cars before returning to the restaurant. Once there, we each enjoy a couple of German beers and brats or garlic wurst straight off the grill, complete with all the fixins. We sit around for a little while just enjoying each other's company and the festival. Unfortunately, I have another event to get to and wish my friends well before heading towards my car. The total distance for the hike was only about 6.8 miles, but it was a great time and I hope others will continue the tradition next year.

Pine Mountain Trail (Harris County, Georgia)

In my continuing endeavor to get in tip top shape for my upcoming Camino, I planned out a few training hikes and posted them as Meetup events. The next one on the list is the longest of the batch. The Pine Mountain Trail follows a long Ridge from an old country store to the tall WJSP-TV tower, most of it traveling through FD Roosevelt State Park in west central Georgia. I have hiked this trail or at least large portions of it in the past, but today's plan is to hike the entire 23 miles point to point. I admit I had thoughts of cancelling the hike due to injuries I sustained while out running in my neighborhood two nights ago. I tripped on an upturned piece of pavement and took a nasty fall, which resulted in several scrapes, a few bruises, and a two-inch gash above my right eye that required stitches. That said, I feel pretty good for being so banged up right now and decided to go forward with the hike.

Originally, I had five or so hikers signed up, but as the day approached that dwindled to only a single hiker. This being a shuttle hike, it required each of us to drive our cars. We met at the radio tower, where my friend left his car. We then drove my car to our starting point and got our gear ready to start the hike. Once we reach his car at the other end, he'll drive me back to this end to collect my car. 

The first section through the woods was mildly downhill as it follows the contours of the ridge. A few patches of poison ivy grow here, but I'm always extremely observant and cautious of this nasty plant, as I've found myself to be quite allergic. We are both strong hikers and I note we are traveling at an very nearly 4-mile per hour pace for the first couple of miles. Soon we reach the spur trail that leads to the park visitors center and quickly discuss whether or not to stop. We agree to just take a quick water break and continue on.

At one point, we enter an area where the Civilian Conservation Corp had constructed several ponds. The woods has grown up around them and the ponds are now dry (at least today), but in and around this area, we spot the ruins of an old structure of some kind. It's nothing terribly interesting, but I always find things like this add to the character of a trail.

Along the entire length of this trail, we will spot a large number of named and somewhat developed campsites, most of which include a fire ring and a picnic table. A lot of people do this hike as a multi-day backpacking trip and as we encounter some of these people throughout the day, they will be slightly surprised that we're hiking the entire length of it in just this one day. That said, this would be a pretty nice backpacking trip for anyone getting started in the activity. 

We remain in the lower elevation section for a little while and even encounter a box turtle alongside the trail. My friend and I take turns leading, but we both set a strong pace. The weather is going to be pretty nice today. It's going to be warm with highs in the mid 80°s, but with much lower humidity than Georgia is typically known for. 

Around the 11-mile mark, we cross state highway 190. We have been looking for a good spot to stop for lunch and as we hadn't yet found anything, the two rocks on the other side of the road seem like an ideal spot. It's shady and offers a great place to sit and rest for a brief break. My friend being from England, mentions that he originally was planning to make a salmon and cucumber sandwich, but ran out of time before he left his house and so, settled for some left over chicken salad. I brought a few pre-packaged snacks and pull a Clif bar and Fatty sausage out to give myself some calories. After a few minutes, we're back on our feet and again moving at our swift pace. The energy boost is apparent.

I am getting a little concerned about my water supply. I brought two liter Nalgene bottles plus a 16-oz bottle, which is in the main compartment of my pack. If I remember correctly from the last time I hiked here, the overlook ahead where FDR used to barbeque has a water fountain where we can refill. Hopefully, it won't be necessary and hopefully, the refill will be possible, but I begin to conserve a little bit just in case.

After another 3.5 miles or so, we reach the FDR overlook area atop Dowdell Knob. It's worth a stop to check out the magnificent views here and to see if my memory is correct of the water fountain. We walk around the cleared area a bit, taking in the view and noting the bronze statue of our 32nd President, complete with leg braces. Unfortunately, I was mistaken and there is no water refill here. I will have to be extremely careful with my water supply from this point onward. On one of my previous hikes along this trail, which was planned as the full length of it, I had to bail due to mild dehydration. I don't want that to happen this time.

Leaving Dowdell Knob, we enter a rocky section with some very mile rock scrambling. It makes the hike interesting, but given my already beat up condition from my recent fall, I have to take these sections very slowly and delay our breakneck race to the end. My friend is understanding of this situation, as I don't think he wants to see me injury myself further.

For the next couple of miles, we'll be following an undulating grade. While this is the case with most of the trial, this section is particularly well described that way. At one point, I note a long, black something on the left side of the trail and as we approach a hognose snake begins 'hooding and hissy' at us as we approach. These guys are not venomous to humans, but do put on quite a defensive show reminiscent of the king cobra. We do our best to not disturb the little guy, but as he's right along the trail on a steep hillside, we are not left much choice. We do our best to get past him without causing too much dismay. He seems to settle down as we get past.

With just a few more miles to go now, we enter the lowlands section of the trail, which includes a number of small waterfalls. It's a beautiful wetlands area with fields of green fern and other water-loving plants lining the trail. I'll be honest, I'm not really sore or anything, but I am getting to the point where I just want to be done with the trail. We've been hiking for seven or so hours by this point and I'm ready to be done. I'm also getting very low on drinking water. My friend is as well.

After passing a couple of the waterfalls, we realize we're getting very close to the end and a second (or perhaps fourteenth) wind strengthens our resolve and our pace once again picks up. We're close now and out of drinking water, though my friend says he has some in his car. Soon, we see the sign indicating 0.1 miles to the tower and just afterwards, we see cars in the parking area. 

Once reach his car, he pulls a gallon jug from the trunk and I pour some into my water bottle and begin rehydrating myself. It's not very cold, but it's still wet and easily gets the job done. Our mileage total was 23.2 miles with just over 3,100 feet of elevation gain. Not a bad way to spend a Saturday. I'm tired and ready to sit, but I don't feel overexerted or anything. I'm glad we did this. Now for the ride back to my car and the drive home.

Fort Massac (Massac County, Illinois)

Fort Massac is the remains of the reconstructed structures of a French colonial and later early National-era fort along the Ohio River near Metropolis Illinois. And since it was on my route home as I drove between St. Louis and Atlanta, I had to stop and check it out. Though there may have been a Spanish fort nearby as early as 1540, the actual Fort Massac was built by the French in 1757, during the French and Indian War. Apparently, it was destroyed by the Chickasaw sometime after 1763 and rebuilt by the early American Troops in 1794. Today, the site is recognized as an Illinois state park.

Parking my car near the visitors center, I make the short walk out the the reconstructed structures of the 1794 site. Several wooden buildings stand here today as their counterparts must have over two centuries ago. As I walk out towards the Ohio River, I notice the raised ground and mote-like fortification of the actual fort aspect. This includes the very common and highly defensible corners where cannons could get a wide sweep of the land surrounding the fort. I walk around this area a little bit before heading back to my car and continuing my journey home. While not much remains of this historic site, it's always interesting to visit what does.

Stonefort Trail (Jackson County, Illinois)

I'm always on the lookout for interesting historical, geological, and archaeological sites in my travels. As I was planning a trip back to my hometown, near St. Louis, I stumbled across information on the Stonefort Trail. This is remnant of an ancient rock wall atop a bluff in the Giant City State Park of Southern Illinois. Archaeologists are unsure of the exact purpose, but they do not believe it was defensive in nature. Regardless, it seems just the kind of interesting site that I want to check out.

After parking my car, I start the short hike up the bluff along a cascading stream. The trail is well marked and once I reach the top, I'm struck by the wall, which was obviously a human construct. While much of it has been destroyed over time, long sections still remain and seem to create a defensible barrier facing the forest, while the tall bluff we're atop provides a very likely unclimbable barrier to any attacking from that direction. For whatever the evidence that the experts have relied on to move away from the defensive structure theory, I'm not convinced. This is one of the best fortified areas, I've ever visited.

While I would love to stay and explore more, I still have several hours of driving and one further stop to hit before I make it home. This was only a short hike of 0.4 miles, but a very interesting one nonetheless.