Meteor Crater (Coconino County, Arizona)

Approximately 50,000 years ago, a meteor probably about the size of a cargo van came crashing down into the desert (though not a desert then) of Arizona. The result? A circular crater over a mile in diameter now marks well the point of impact. While a very basic example of physics in action, the crater itself seems enormous while standing on the edge.

Monument Valley (Navajo Nation, Arizona & Utah)

The next stop along our road trip was drive through the picturesque valley featured in so many Westerns and also in “Forrest Gump”. The valley is truly impressive with its gargantuan sandstone monuments spread out over the desert like towering skyscrapers in a metropolis, though much less densely packed. This valley truly represents the majesty of the Western United States.

Four Corners (Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona)

To list this place as being in Utah would only be partially correct. The monument built here on Navajo lands represents the meeting of the borders of four states: Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona.

In all honesty, the meeting of some imaginary lines on a map is not all that exciting to me, but as it was near our path on this multi-day road trip, it was worth a look.

Mesa Verde National Park (Mesa Verde National Park, Colorado)

Perhaps even more amazing than our last stop, Mesa Verde is an archaeological trip into the world of some astounding Native American builders, the Anasazi or Cliff-dwellers. This entire park is centered around the construction of this awe-inspiring people who literally built many dozens of dwellings in and among the cliffs of this beautiful mesa.

After the fifteen mile drive to the tour office, we decide to buy tour tickets to both Balcony House and Cliff Palace House. The ranger-lead tour through the first is quite amazing as we must climb down ladders, through tunnels (very, very narrow tunnels), and then back up the hand and toe holds carved by the original builders. It’s almost hard to believe that this people lived here in these precarious dwellings between 1200 & 1300 b.c.e. The masonry work is top notch.

Continuing on to our second tour, Cliff Palace, we find the largest cliff dwelling every built. With some 150 separate rooms, this truly is a palace. It is believed to have served as some type of social center for the entire region. With its round spires, perfectly square towers, and submerged “keves”, it’s quite obvious this was a structure of some importance. Quite a spectacle to behold.

Next, we tackle Spruce Tree House, which is a self-guided tour below the museum. Much like the other two, the ancient architecture is quite skilled. On the way back up, we discover a 2.4 mile trail along the mesa wall to some petroglyphs from the same era. We decide to the detour is worth it and head out.

The trail itself is actually rather treacherous with some minor boulder scrambling and several sets of very steep stone-carved steps. Upon reaching the Petroglyphs, we nearly walk right past them, as the signage is somewhat hidden and the drawings appear on a wall 8-10 feet above the trail. Still the rock art is quite beautiful, making the hike well worth the time.

Nick and I both feel a little drained and decide to view the remaining visible sites on the drive out of the park. We do find a few more cave dwellings on the way out, but none as impressive as those we toured through. Overall, this was an amazing day of hiking and site-seeing.

Arches National Park (Arches National Park, Utah)

After a night of camping an Angel Lake near Elko, NV, a very long drive through the great salt desert, and several hours south of Salt Lake City, my friend Nick and I arrived at Moab, UT and Arches National Park. Based on our time allotted for this first of many stops on this long road trip, we agree that a drive through the park will be our best bet to take in the most scenery before dark.

We begin the drive up a series of steep switchbacks until we reach the top of the plateau. Almost immediately, we are in awe of the mighty sandstone pillars and other formations confronting us. It is very reminiscent of the pictures I have seen of Monument Valley, which of course we will also see on this trip.

Continuing through the park we see a few massive arches in the distance as we approach the famous Balanced Rock formation. It’s quite stunning to see a boulder the size of a house so neatly balanced on a thin pillar, some 75-100 feet in the air.

Further into the park, we stop at the amazing Double Arch and hike up a short distance for a close-up. In fact, I even climb up a somewhat challenging rock face to the area directly beneath the two connected arches. The formation is mind-boggling. It’s difficult to even imagine how the stone could have eroded into these shapes, but it’s spectacular to see and climb around on.

Finally as the day begins to wind down, we make our way out to the upper viewpoint of Delicate Arch, which has become a symbol for the state of Utah. After a short hike over some rolling sandstone slabs we reach a point where the landmark becomes fully visible in all its glory. Amazingly, this tall picturesque arch sits atop a large cliff, alongside of four or five other formations that may become arches in the centuries yet to come. 

While we didn’t have a huge amount of time to spend, seeing these amazing natural wonders was well worth the stop. Tomorrow we head for Mesa Verde!

National Mall (Washington D.C.)

After many years of wanting to visit our nation’s capital, I’m finally here. Though it is only a small detour on an infinitely more important journey, I try to make the most of my time here. Knowing the Smithsonian Museums don’t open until 10 am, I take the opportunity to walk around our nation’s capitol building. It is a magnificent site, both visually and in the role it plays to our foundation of government.

As I make my way around to the east side, I see the Supreme Court and have to go take a look. The sky is dark and it’s starting to mist. I continue on around and head for the Smithsonian Museum of American Indians.

While I had really hoped for a celebration of a defeated, yet forever-surviving people, what I found was more of a history book on the struggle between Native Americans and the white man. I feel shame for what my ancestors did to these honorable people, and I yet I am disappointed at the exhibits here.

Moving on to the Museum of Air and Space, I am excited to see several aircraft hanging from the rafters, one of which I hear incorrectly described as the SR-71 Blackbird. The facility is full of models and real aircraft. For me the highlights are the original Wright Flyer, a replica of the Hubble Space Telescope (actual size), and a Mars rover. Far better than the last museum, this one celebrates its subject matter.

A quick walk to the other side of the mall puts me in front of the Museum of Natural History. This may be the mother of all the Smithsonian Museums. Fossils, dinosaur skeletons, amazing mineral formations, “Lucy”, Roman mosaics, and the Hope Diamond are but a few of the amazing exhibits here. After a couple of hours, I've seen a good chunk of the content and decide to move on.

Next Stop, the Museum of American History. First thing to see inside (though pictures aren't allowed) is the one, the only, the flag that inspired the Star Spangled Banner – breathtaking. I remove my hat as a sign of respect. Continuing through the museum, I discover it is aimed the history of the American people, more than the American nation. One of President Lincoln’s top hats and the recovered gunship, Philadelphia, from 1776 are a couple of the highlights.

As I step outside, it seems relatively clear and so I decide to continue my hike of the National Mall. Reaching the hill, atop which sits the monument to the great man, the reluctant leader, and in the words of King George of England “the greatest man living”, President and General of the Continental Armies George Washington, I can see the capitol building, the White House, and the Lincoln Memorial at their respective ends of the Mall.

Making my way through the WWII Memorial and along the great mirrored pond, I head for the Lincoln Memorial. Walking up those steps to the massive temple-covered statue of our 16th president, one cannot help but be in awe. His great oratories appear on the inner walls, flanking the man that fought the final battle of the American Revolution. I turn to leave . . . humbled.

Before heading back to the hotel to rest my aching back, I stroll through the Vietnam War Memorial and suddenly feel obligated to remove my hat again in honor of the thousands of men whose names are forever remembered on these cold, black plates for sacrificing their lives for the ideas of this great nation.

Devil's Kitchen (Lassen Volcanic National Park, California)

In order to reach this trail, one must leave the main area of the park and re-enter from the southeast corner of Lassen. After a scenic drive and a small area of off-roading (glad I have this jeep), I finally reach the trail head  In fact, there are a number of trails starting at his one spot. As it is getting late in the day, I’ll have to settle for just one on this visit to the park.

The early parts of the trail are marked by horse droppings and planked walkways over marshy areas, as the trail weaves between forest and grassy meadows. At one point about three-quarters of a mile in, a stone and earth stairway makes a descent a bit easier. Leaving the woods for a short time, it’s finally time to cross the last section of grassy meadow before the final push to Devil’s Kitchen.

Another mile or so and a hint of sulfur is picked up by my nose, while I admire some young sequoias. Of course by “young”, I mean their trunks are less than ten feet in diameter. As I reach the top of a small rise and cross a wooden bridge over a small creek, sulfur again fills the air and I can see a number of steam vents in the distance.

The trail meanders among a number of hot springs; some active, some not – and steam vents. To take all of it in is truly amazing. The geothermal heat just below the surface must be extraordinary to create an area of activity this large.

As I reach a sort of hot spring valley on the western end of the area, I notice a small stream of super-heated mud, which looks like liquid silver, breaking towards and eventually joining with the creek. Truly an amazing site to behold.

After thoroughly exploring the area, I decide to make my way back to the jeep. Along the way, I hear some clawing sounds in the distance. Looking over my left shoulder, I see a young bear, by its size and coloration, a grizzly, tearing into the trunk of a fallen tree. With events unfolding in my personal life, I wonder if this might be my spirit guide. If so, her message to me must be “determination”, as she barely notices me while working at her tree trunk. I take a couple of snapshots and turn to go, pondering the meaning of my chance encounter.