Sunday, April 2, 2017

Phantom Falls (Butte County, California)


Last spring while on my way back from a weekend in Napa Valley, I spent a little time driving down rain-soaked back roads looking for the trail head for a seasonal waterfall known as Phantom Falls. With the wet weather, I didn't look too long before heading on toward my next stop, but I've been thinking that I want to get back over to find that water fall. Due to some family matters that are going on, I've been pretty stressed out these last couple of weeks and I thought today would be a good day to relieve some of that stress by trying to find the waterfall again.

Arriving in Oroville, CA around 11:30 AM, I made my way out the winding Cherokee Road, which leads perilously above the edge of Oroville Lake. After about six miles, I begin seeing a huge number of cars parked alongside the road and hordes of people out on the wild-flower covered pastures. Apparently, many other people had the same idea as I did. There must be 500 cars and trucks parked here all along the road for half-a-mile either direction from the trail head. Families have set up lawn chairs and are flying kites out in the sea of cow patties and wild flowers. As I look for a place to park, I'm once again thankful for owning my jeep, as I can climb up inclines far better than the family sedans and mini-vans that are parked as far as the eye can see.


I head out into the pasture, northwest from the trail head. There is no true 'trail' here, but I assume at least some of the masses are headed that direction. Yellow, white, and purple wild flowers make it clear to all that spring is upon us. They make for a carpet for miles in every direction. The cows and rain seep have done a nice job of making something of a muddy mess in many sections of the field. I do my best to avoid the worst of it, but can't help bet get a little muddy.

Reaching the first of the two large gorges in this section of the North Table Mountain Ecological Reserve, I decide to pass it by and head for my destination at the top of the second gorge. As I approach, a use trail becomes visible. Obviously, all of this foot traffic has worn a path through the colorful field. As I reach my destination, I'm struck by the pillars of basalt that seem to make the base of this entire gorge. 

I've seen columnar basalt formations all over the country, from Devils' Postpile south of Yosemite to Sheepeater Cliff inside Yellowstone. This one, however, is different in scale . . . much different. It almost seems that this entire area sits atop this type of volcanic stone and that the gorge before me is simply a section this giant basalt landscape that has been carved out by the running waters of the local streams and falls. In this distance, the columns, both in tact and those that have fallen into the gorge, make for a spectacular site.


Finally, looking to my right, I see Phantom Falls. It is healthy wisp of water flowing from a small stream and falling over the edge of the fallen basalt columns. At the bottom, a rainbow plays in the misty air, while the falls itself conceals a large cave behind. A number of people scatter the hillsides all around me. Some just taking in the view, while others play in the stream. I can't blame them, it is a beautiful site.


After inhaling this magnificent view for a short time, I decide to head back to the jeep. This time, I was able to follow more of a worn path, but it still passed through a few sections of mud. It was a good hike of 3.75 miles, despite the mud and masses of people. The waterfall and the wildflowers more than made up for it. If I visit again though, I'll try to do it much earlier in the day and avoid some of the crowds.

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