Sunday, June 23, 2019

Rubicon Trail (El Dorado County, California)


The Rubicon Trail, not to be confused with the Rubicon OHV Trail, runs around Emerald Bay and a few miles up the western side of Lake Tahoe to the D.L. Bliss State Park. In my opinion and that of many others, this is some of the most beautiful shoreline of Tahoe. Emerald Bay, home to the massive alpine lake's only island, is the jewel of Lake Tahoe. So much so, that Vikingsholm was built as a summer retreat for some of the lakes wealthier past residents. 

I've traveled this trail twice in the past. Once about four years ago with friends in the spring, but it started raining on us a little more than halfway to the end point and we turned back. My second tour on the trail was as the part of the course for the Emerald Bay Trail Run the following year. This was a truly challenging course for me to run. I wasn't in the greatest shape and the elevation changes are beastly at points along the trail (at least in terms of running). With that said though, I decided to give the Rubicon Trail another go and take time to breath in the amazing landscape that is this part of the lake.



The drive to Emerald Bay State Park and the Vikingsholm parking lot is a bit more than an hour from my home, and I arrived around 9:30 AM. After some struggles with the automated parking fee kiosk, I finally made my way the mile or so down the popular, but steep trail to the main area of the park, which also signifies the start of the Rubicon Trail. As this is a set of switchbacks traversing a steep drop off into the lake, there are a number of waterfalls to pass by, which always makes it enjoyable.

Arriving at the bottom, I find the restroom before heading northeast on the trail. It quickly departs the popular section of the park and enters a boat-accessible campground popular among locals. The campground is fully furnished with bear lockers and fire rings, and is generally booked during its entire season by those wishing to anchor in Emerald Bay and enjoy one of the most beautiful places on the planet.



As I make my way to the northern end of the campground, I pass a number of other hikers. Most of them are departing their campsite just to get a few steps in, but some will follow the trail up the shoreline and then back to the camp. Unfortunately, my hiking pace is considerably faster than most of them and I quickly catch up. Every one of them is courteous though when I excuse myself and ask to pass. This is common in my backcountry areas, but many of these people are not really hard-core hikers and are just doing it because they saw the trail and thought it would be cool to hike along Tahoe's shoreline.

Leaving Emerald Bay, the trail crosses over a small peninsula that makes up the northern guard rail of the bay. I loose site of the lake through this section, but in it's place, I make my way through beautiful alpine forests. At these elevations (6k-ish feet) the snow has all melted for the year, but some of the white fluff is still visible on distant peaks.

Soon, the trail returns to the lake and rewards the traveler with crystal clear blue hues in both the lake and the sky above. Both are occasionally interrupted by the occasional granite boulder (lake) and cloud (sky). The pictures from this place are highly regarded as some of the best anywhere and I completely agree. I can't count the number of friends that have these exact landscapes hanging on the walls of their homes, be it something the purchased or their own photographic fruits.



Finally, I reach D.L. Bliss State Park and head for the small cove below. Here, I make my way out onto a granite perch overlooking looking the lake, which is approximately fifty feet below me. I find boulders at just the proper angle to recline myself and enjoy a small snack and some water. Looking out on a view like this, makes one remember just how good life is and how luck we all are. I really do appreciate having lived here in this area for so long and being able to explore this divine landscapes. In the distance, I hear music and even conversations. I had forgotten how far sound carries over the lake water. Two people just having a casual conversation on the lake a couple of hundred yards away can be pretty clearly heard from this vantage point . . . and I suffer from some minor hearing loss. 

After a short rest, I start the return trip, following the trail back the way I came. I encounter even more hikers this time, but it's not surprising given it is the middle of the day. Finally, returning up the Vikingsholm trail to my jeep, see I've logged just over 10.8 miles. Not a bad day at all and considering the majestic scenery, I really can't think of any place better to have spent it. 


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