Desolation Wilderness (El Dorado County, California)

Living in an area with so many overnight backpacking destinations nearby is truly amazing. This weekend's trip was into the Desolation Wilderness with my friend Bill. We had tried to do this trip about a month ago, but spring rains made us change our minds. This weekend though turned out to be perfect. I had acquired overnight back country permits with our itinerary starting us at the Echo Lakes, camping at Lake Aloha, and exiting at the Eagle Falls trail head.

Knowing that parking would be an issue, we met at 6:00 AM and drove our jeeps down to the Eagle Falls trail head. I dropped my jeep off and then we loaded our packs into Bill's jeep and we made our way through South Lake Tahoe and to the Echo Lakes trail head. We were on the trail by 8:30 or so, and this first day was intended to be pretty easy.

I have day hiked from Echo Lakes to Lake Aloha in the past and it is a beautiful hike. As we make our way past both Lower and Upper Echo lake, Bill comments on the beauty of the lakes. As we reach the Lake of the Woods side trail, I mention that it is actually one of the most beautiful alpine lakes I have ever seen. Knowing that our mileage for the day is going to be minimal, we decide to hike down to the hidden lake on the side trail.

As we make our way down the switchbacks, we are little surprised to see Forestry Service Rangers coming up from the lake. They are extremely friendly and ask about our plans, noticing that we have more on our backs than just an average day-hiker. I pull out our permits and they offer some friendly advice about camping spots. 

A short time later, we arrive at the Lake of the Woods and Bill agrees that it is an amazing site to witness. Something about this little hidden lake just appeals to me. It's clear, blue waters, its location tucked away in a small little hidden area, and just the simple fact that it is always so peaceful down here. Great place for anyone just wanting a little peace and quiet. After a short rest, we start up the trail leading out of the depression containing this great little lake. The climb is steep, but knowing that our destination for the evening is just a short distance ahead, we make it with ease. 

We arrive at the southern end of Lake Aloha, which has a lot more water in than it did the last time I was here. It actually looks like a lake this time, as opposed to being a collection of puddles, as it was on my last visit. This is one of the larger lakes we will visit on this trip and so we begin walking around the edge, looking for a suitable campsite. I'm a little surprised to see a small pond (which probably connects to the lake at higher water levels) with lily pads in it. Awesome!!

We decide on a campsite and begin to set up camp. It's still early in the day and as I didn't get a lot of sleep the night before, I decide to take a short nap. It's hot, but not unbearable. After about 45 minutes, I awake and decide to fix a late lunch - freeze dried three-cheese chicken pasta. It's actually pretty good. Bill and I spend the remainder of the afternoon just relaxing and taking in the sun at this cool, alpine lake. I also get quite a few shots of the lake, including a really nice one at sunset.

Early to bed and early to rise, I awake at about 5 AM. It's cool, but not cold, but go ahead and put on some fresh clothes before leaving the tent. I actually slept pretty well overall, considering it was just my sleeping pad and sleeping bag on top of a slab of granite. And then I step outside . . . to be attacked by a never-ending swarm of vicious flesh-eating mosquitoes. This will be a theme for most of the day, but where were these little bastards yesterday. We saw no sign of them. I jump back in my tent and pack as much as possible, safe from the little vampires, but eventually, I have to go back outside and pack the tent itself. The blitzkrieg is relentless and Bill and I decide to skip breakfast in an effort to flee this onslaught. He finished packing his tent slightly before I did and so we make a dash for the trail. Away from the water, it is a little better, but they are still present.

Not knowing exactly how far around the lake we had come yesterday, we make a couple of missteps in finding the correct trail, but eventually, we find the right one. Interestingly, we encounter the first of several PCT thru-hikers as we fill our water receptacles at from the lake. Hikers are almost always such great people and long-distance thru-hikers exemplify that statement. We fill our water bottles and make the turn towards Dick's Pass.

It's all uphill for here or so I thought. Dick's Pass, at 9380 ft, is the highest point on my planned trail, but before we start the climb up to the pass, we drop down a couple of hundred feet to pass by more beautiful alpine lakes . . . or mosquito breeding grounds, as is more appropriate today. The lakes are truly amazing, but the little blood-suckers attack in force once again. We pass by Heather Lake, Susie Lake, and begin making our way to Gilmore Lake. 

As we start past Gilmore Lake, I am so overwhelmed by the mosquito assault, I miss a turn. I move my hand over my arm to free my skin from the attack and roll over 4-6 mosquitoes, only to use switch hands and repeat the process on my other arm. I must look quite comical as I make my way down the trail slapping and brushing the little bastards off of me. I see a nice hiker with her dog near the shore of Gilmore Lake and ask if she and her companions might have some repellent that I could use. She suggests going up the hill to their main campsite. As I start up that way, Bill calls me from the other trail, which I should have been one. I head back, but decide to cut through the woods after all to ask about the mosquito repellent. The extremely nice hikers offer up what they have, even though they have to pull it from the bottom of their pack. I bath in the stuff. It's a terribly pungent smell, but if it makes me unappetizing to these guys, then it's all worth it. I thank the group and we make our way back to the main trail. I laugh as I see the mosquitoes attempt to land on me, but notice the scent of the repellent and go on their way. . . . finally, some relief!!! Next challenge of the day: the relentless hike up to Dick's Pass.

From this point, it's straight uphill as we approach Dick's Pass. It's steep, but not terrible. I think Bill struggles with it a little bit, but slow and steady wins the race and after several switchbacks, we finally reach the top. The area around the high point of the trail is an open grassy meadow with sprawling views of the entire Desolation Wilderness Area. We take a few snapshots and start down the hill . . . and down . . . and down . . . and down some more.

We pass above and then along side Dick's Lake and the are forced to make a decision. Should we bypass the Velma lakes and take the cut-off towards Eagle Falls or not. After our battle with the mosquitoes, we agree that the sooner we get back to the jeep to clean-up the mosquito carcass shrapnel from our clothes and skin, the better. This short-cut will save us about 2 miles.

Continuing on past lake after lake, we start to see a increase in the number of hikers on the trail, mostly day-hikers coming up from the Eagle Falls trail head. We manage to stay on the proper trail with the help of our map-reading skills and a little confirmation from hikers passing us in the other direction.

Eventually, we see Eagle Lake come into view below us and I know we are almost to the jeep. My knees are getting a little sore from all of granite steps, but we double our pace in anticipation of the end of the trail. We finally reach the bridge cross over Eagle Falls and realize we literally have 5 minutes more to go. 

Finally, we reach the jeep. This was a great hike with some amazing country. I served my place in the food chain by providing a buffet for swarm after swarm of mosquito. I feel as though I have done a lot. In total, we hike almost 24 miles over the two days: 8 miles day 1 and about 16 miles day 2. Not bad days, but always more difficult with a full backpack strapped to me. I hope to do this trail again someday, and possibly hit the Velma Lakes, but I will definitely bring a good supply of high-powered mosquito repellent . . . and possibly a flame-thrower!!