Angels Landing (Zion National Park, Utah)

Several months ago, I was lucky enough to get camping reservations for Watchman Campground in Zion National Park. While I visited the park a few years ago with my friend Nick, I was unable to knock out the premier hike of the park, Angels Landing. That was my goal on this trip. Angels Landing is a precarious perch of a wedge sticking out into Zion Canyon with 1200 foot drop offs on either side of the narrow trail. Seems like great adventure to me. 

As the day of the trip approached, a few plans changed, but I decided to go forward with the quick trip. With some of things going on in my life at present, I was desperately in need of some time to get my head clear and a death-defying climb seemed a great place to do just that. Waking early on Saturday morning, I started the long trek from Reno to Zion National Park in Southwestern Utah. It's a nine hour drive, but I like driving. It gives me time to think. The trip is perhaps the greatest expression of the beautiful desolation that is the great state of Nevada. From Fallon to Tonopah, down the Extraterrestrial Highway, and finally entering into the states of Arizona and Utah, before arriving at the park. 

Parking the jeep at my reserved campsite, I quickly set up my tent and begin thinking about what I want to do next. As it is mid-afternoon, I'm not really considering any hikes, but food is at the forefront of my thoughts. The tourist town of Springdale serves as the entrance to the park and provides a number of dining and drinking options. A foot bridge crosses the Virgin River from the park into town. The last time I visited the park, I found a great place called Zion Pizza and Noodle. I finally decide to give it a second try, but to my dismay, they don't reopen for dinner for another 45 minutes. No worries - a saloon across the street seems like a perfect place to spend that short duration. Oddly, the bartender tells me that Utah law prevents the purchase of alcohol without the purchase of food. I order some french fries, which meet the requirement and then enjoy a sampler of some of the local craft brews. A short time later, I wonder back across the street and have a magnificent Mediterranean vegetarian pizza for dinner. The remainder of the evening involves me finishing off a growler that I brought with me and falling asleep under a cool, calming breeze. 

I wake early and decide that it's going to be a hot day. Hitting the exposed trail early to avoid the heat seems like a wise plan, and so, I make my way to the shuttle stop by 7:30. Beyond the Zion Lodge, only shuttles and park-authorized vehicles are allowed. This is the NPS's attempt to help preserve the pristine nature of the valley. Arriving at the Grotto shuttle stop, I depart the bus, eat a snack, and start up the path. The first part of the trail is easy and I'm greeted by a flock of wild turkeys looking for food along well-traveled walkway.

The trail soon starts up a series of switchbacks as it climbs the side of the canyon and enters a the crag between the canyon wall and the wedge that is Angels Landing. It's pretty steep, but I feel that I'm in very good shape right now and so, it wasn't terribly challenging. However, reaching the top of the canyon, the true test of the hike is about to begin - the chains! 

The remaining third of a mile or so to the final destination is challenging to say the least and very far from horizontal. The 'trail' such as it is winds and weaves its way around and up the sandstone formations. Heavy chains are placed nearly the entire distance and for inexperienced climbers, such as myself, are a near necessity to keep from falling. Worse, there is only one narrow 'path' through the obstacles, and so, passing hikers going in the opposite direction poses significant logistical challenges in places. At some points the trial is only about two feet wide with steep 1200 foot drop-offs on either side. As I make my way up this deadly course, my mind wanders to my personal issues and thoughts of falling. If I figure out nothing else on this trip, I did reaffirm that no problems in life are so bad that one should ever want to end it. I grip the chains tightly and finish the climb to the top.

Viewing Zion Canyon from this point is magnificent. I think this must be one of the great view points on the face of the Earth. I can see miles and miles down the Virgin River, which with the slow march of time and erosion is responsible for carving this place. I think of all of the other divine views of other parks and natural places that I have been fortunate enough to be able to absorb over the last several years. I am truly blessed.

I don't linger long, as I'm concerned that making my way down the chains will be more difficult than coming up. I was correct. Finding gaps in the uphill traffic is difficult and the polished tree-roots and dusty sandstone make for poor foot holds. The going is slow, but I eventually reach the end of the chains and then start down the foot trail. My knee is bum knee is starting to act up a bit and I feel it with each impact going down the switchbacks. 

Eventually, I reach the bottom. Total mileage is a meager 6.5 miles, but the danger level of the trail definitely puts it high on my list of accomplishments. Compared to the cables of Half Dome, I this is far more dangerous. At least with Half Dome, you can see where you are going. Not so here, as the trail bends and flexes around that the sandstone on that final section. I can't say that I have had any great revelations, but perhaps a renewed lust for life is a good foundation to build other things on. Not being able to see the future is a cruel reality and we never what tomorrow brings. Perhaps, the greatest lesson is to always push forward, to reach for those things that bring you happiness, and to be true to yourself.