Sunday, May 29, 2016

Devil's Garden (Arches National Park, Utah)


One hike down and a couple of more to go before I call it a day. After heading back to camp and enjoying a light breakfast, I head for my second hike of the day, Devil's Garden, which is at the extreme northern end of Arches National Park. Luckily, my campsite is only about three-quarters of a mile from the trail head and I decide to simply walk the distance.

The Devils' Garden is very appropriately named. The blazing sun will bring temperatures in this area into the low 90's, and along with the reddish-orange color of the sand, stone and general landscape, one is reminded of hell. That said, it is truly one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen, filled with amazing sandstone arches, pillars, cliffs, crevasses, etc. As I peer into the initial canyon at the start of the trail, I'm excited to see what all this hike will have to offer. 


The trail itself is generally a loop, but has a large number of connected side-trails, each leading to a specific arch or other feature. This must be one of the most dense samples of sandstone arches in the world, probably why the park is named as such. The first arch I visit is Tunnel Arch, looming large over the small valley it sits in.


Next on the list and just a short distance away is Pine Arch, which unlike its neighbor, sits at ground level and allows visitors to walk underneath on a floor of red sand. Many admirers take time to snap a few shots of their friends and loved ones under the arch, but are courteous enough to not linger more than a few moments to allow everyone to get a turn.

Continuing a bit further and to the end of the maintained trail, I arrive at the area below Landscape Arch, which boasts the longest span of any of the multitudes of arches in the park. It is quite breathtaking, but the trail only gives a view from a distance, which is probably a good thing. I can imagine the masses trying to climb on the thin arch and destroying its magnificence for all time.

From there, the trail is listed as 'primitive', meaning there will be lots of sand to a walk and a large amount of rock scrambling. While I dislike hiking on sand, I do love rock climbing. The first test comes up almost immediately as I must scramble 150 yards or so up a sandstone sheet sitting at an approximate 40 degree incline. I pass a couple of other hikers as they stop to catch their breath, and while the scramble is a little challenging, I feel like I'm in very good shape at the moment, especially as I reach the top without stopping and only breathing slightly harder than normal.


I next visit Navajo Arch and Partition Arch, both of which offer their own unique example of what sandstone arches can be, and of course offering and even requiring some climbing opportunities along the way. I do love climbing around desert landscape, though I'm very careful to only climb over durable surfaces and certainly not on top of or even near any of the iconic arches along the trail.


After another mile or so, I arrive in a shallow little valley looking up into the Double O arches. The smaller one must be passed through to get to the other side and to see the larger of the two above. This area offers one of the best opportunities to climb and explore so far, as the cliff is steep by passable and allows access to the large red ridge leading out and acting as the cap to the larger of the Double O arches. I make my way up, but conscientiously avoid getting close to the arch itself. The views from up here are truly awesome - and I use that word for its true definition, not the modern over use.


One final stop before heading back to camp, the Dark Angel. I had read about and seen pictures of this feature in the past, but being only a half mile or so from it, I couldn't resist. The trail leads down from the Double O arches and further out into the extreme north-western part of the park. Even from this distance, the pillar of darkened sandstone known as Dark Angel is visible, standing off on its own away from other cliffs. The trail to get to the feature is unremarkable, except for the views, which I've already commented on. Arriving at the base of the pillar, I am surprised to see rock-climbers three-quarters of the way up the back side of the column. I'm pretty sure they are not suppose to be climbing here.


With most of the noteworthy features explored, I turn to head back down the backside of the primitive trail loop, but before I get to far, I remember another arch, Private Arch, which is on this backside. Of course, I have to visit that one as well. From that point on though, the trail gets a bit more dangerous and requires careful maneuvering over slick sandstone cliffs and along narrow passage ways. I help a few other hikers ascend and descend over some of the ridges, but its getting very, very hot and its time for me to head back. 

Including my distance to and from my campsite, this trail clocks in at just over 10 miles. Not a bad start to the day and definitely a trail worth visiting for the site-seeing. 

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