Okefenokee Swamp Adventure Weekend (Charlton County, Georgia)

 

I have a distinct memory of watching an episode of Scooby Doo as a child. In this story, the gang visits the Okefenokee Swamp and investigates some kind of strange alligator creature. I can't remember much more about it, but the thought of the Okefenokee Swamp has stuck with me for all of these decades and since moving to Georgia, I've been interested in visiting this place. Luckily, the Georgia Conservancy organizes such a trip each year. Though it was cancelled in 2020 due to the pandemic, I was able to register for this year's trip.

With a full weekend of exploration planned, I make the five hour drive from my home near Atlanta to the Suwanee Eco-Lodge in Fargo, GA, near the Florida border. This will be our base camp for the weekend's adventures. After checking in, I get my tent set up on the outskirts of the facility and then head back over to the lodge. There were options to get a room here, but I'm perfectly comfortable in my tent, and it seems many others that will be on this adventure felt the same way, as there are a dozen or so tents pitched around the facility. As I make the short walk over to the lodge for the evening's festivities, I make small talk with some of my fellow adventurers. 

The evening begins with a happy hour sponsored by Sweetwater Brewing Company out of Atlanta and continues in the dining area with a fantastic turkey chili. While eating dinner, the organizers go over the weekend's agenda and cover several housekeeping items. As we finish our meals, the naturalist, Cathy Sakas, gives an interesting lecture on the ecology of the swamp. Finally, we all retire to a raging campfire outside, not far from my tent. I spend a little time with the group, but it's getting late and we have an early call in the morning.

Rising a little before 6:00 AM, I crawl out from under my quilt. The temperatures were perfect for camping last night, hovering right around 50 degrees. It's a little cool, when I step out of my tent, but very tolerable. I make my way over to the lodge for some coffee, while the crew finishes preparing breakfast. On this morning's menu are steel-cut oats with fresh strawberries and blueberries. I must say that these berries seem to have been picked earlier this morning as they are bursting with flavor. After everyone gets some food in their bellies, we caravan over to Stephen C. Foster State Park, which is about twenty miles away. From Here, we will launch our kayaks and canoes into the black waters of the swamp.

Though I have recently just purchased a new kayak, I didn't know that I would have it by the time this trip came around and so, I opted to share a rented canoe seat with another participant. In this case, it's Brian, the Communications Director for the Conservancy. He's very knowledgeable and a great paddler. I've never actually used a canoe before and it's quite different than a kayak. It takes a little getting used to, but eventually and with Brian's guidance, we begin working well as a team.

Our first paddle takes us east on the Suwanee River to Billy's Island. This is not my first time in a swamp, but each time, I'm left in awe of the diversity of life in these wet and wild wonderlands. Numerous bird species fly above us and feed from the water. Plants of all varieties, including Cypress Trees and the Spanish Moss hanging from them, frame the area in a almost mystical way.

After about two miles on the slow moving water, we reach Billy's Island. Truthfully, it's somewhat difficult to discern dry land from swamp here due to the thick vegetation, but luckily our guides know where they are going. We exit our watercraft and head to a large clearing for lunch. These were not provided by the organizers, but I had the forethought to purchase a couple of Jimmy John's subs for today and tomorrow and keep them in the cooler. It's very tasty and several of my peers comment that they should have done the same thing, as they enjoy their peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.

Soon, Cathy Sakas, from last night's lecture, begins a short hike around the island, pointing out the diverse life along the way, including several spider species. It seems we are strolling through the now overgrown remains of the Herbard Cypress Company Logging Camp, which ceased operations here nearly a century ago. Over the decades, much of the equipment and shelters have been dismantled and moved, but some remnants still remain. These include two boilers from steam locomotive engines, which were used to transport the felled cypress logs, and the frame of an old car. I'm sure there are more artifacts in and among the palmettos that cover this area now, but it is protected and Cathy asks us not to venture beyond the warning signs, which I can certainly respect.

Loading ourselves back into the boats, we begin the paddle back to the launch point. Along the way, the group splits in two and some of us head north up Minnie's Lake Run, which is a narrow passage to a remote canoe dock and camping platform. Of course, I choose to take this detour and explore. After all, that's what I'm here for. The passage is much more narrow than the river, with sections only a few feet wide. It's something of a comedy to see some of the inexperienced paddlers trying to maneuver in and around the cypress trees rising from the water. We even have a couple of gentle pileups, but luckily no one is hurt or goes in for a swim. We do see a few small alligators along this passage and Cathy says we are likely to see even larger ones on tomorrows route. Eventually, we reach the dock and make our turn. According to Brian, we are the first group to actually get this far on the trip. On most years, several paddlers make the attempt but are forced to turn back due to time constraints.

Returning to the launch point, we take our boats out of the water and head back to the lodge. Another lively happy hour gives way to a terrific barbeque dinner complete with all the fixins. While we enjoy our dinner, members of the conservancy discuss their efforts to protect and preserve the swamp we have spent our day exploring. I think part of the strategy of the conservancy is to bring people out here to connect with the swamp and thereby become invested in it. Once invested, visitors are more likely to contribute to efforts to preserve the natural environment. The strategy works!

Once we finish dinner, we head out to stargaze. An astronomy club from one of the local universities has brought out several medium sized telescopes and have targeted several of the wonders of the night sky. This is the perfect place to do such a thing and the skies are gorgeous and open here. In fact, this is the only place east of the Mississippi that I have ever been able to see the Milky Way. Taking advantage of the telescopes, I'm treated to wonderful views of Saturn, Jupiter, and a few other heavenly bodies. After a bit, I head over to the campfire and join my compatriots for some merriment before I head back to my tent for a good night's sleep.

Again, the overnight temperatures were just about perfect. Unfortunately, I had a few too many post-happy hour beers and suffered from a couple bouts of the hiccups through the night. I still managed to get a decent night's sleep, but it could have been better. Sleeping in slightly later this morning, the sun is almost up when I make my way over to the lodge for coffee and breakfast. On the menu today, we have a sausage and onion quiche, which is quite tasty, especially with some hot sauce and jalapenos added to it.

We'll return to the swamp for one last paddle before we end our weekend. Today, I'll be sharing a canoe with Christine, another participant. We actually have some pretty challenging struggles in steering the boat and end up making a few 360 degree turns on the water, but eventually, we seem to get the hang of it.

Today, we're paddling west towards Mixon's Hammock. This route takes us through gator territory and while none of them appear to be walking on two legs like as in my memory of the Scooby Doo villain, we do encounter some pretty good sized ones. At point, our boat is floating through lily pads and we end up just ten to twelve feet away from a six footer sunning himself on a log. While this was completely accidental and the result of another team steering problem, the animal is docile in these cool temperatures and barely gives any sign that he notices us.

Reaching the Mixon's Hammock, another small island, we leave our boats and find a nice camping area to enjoy our lunch. Again, Cathy shares tales of the ecology and some of her past adventures in this area. It's all very enjoyable and is over far too soon. With a few final words, we climb back into our canoe and paddle back to the launch point. As we leave, I point out a pair of cypress trees to the north that currently have no less than five black buzzards roosting in them. Is this an ominous sign? I can't say, but it's not the last wildlife the group will see. Though Christine and I get there too late to see them, others from our group spot three black bears in an area not far from the launch point. Very diverse wild life in this place. 

Soon, we are back on dry land and saying our goodbyes. This has been an outstanding trip and I have gained a new appreciation for the murky, but life-giving waters of the swamp. I thank the organizers for their efforts and head back to my jeep. I do a quick change of clothes just to get something dry on and then I'm on my way back home.