Laugavegur Trail (Suðurland, Iceland)

I'm always on the lookout for new adventures and I'm starting to expand my scope to some international destinations. A couple of years ago, I learned of a trail in Iceland considered by National Geographic to be one of the twenty best trails in the world. For a few months now, I've been making plans to visit the land of fire and ice to hike this trail. 

The Laugavegur Trail extends from the hot springs area of Landmannalaugar to the glacial valley of Þórsmörk in Southern Iceland. It passes through a number of different landscapes and truly shows the diversity of this small island nation's geography and geology. 

I flew into Reykjavik, the capital city, the day before to give myself a chance to enjoy a bit of the culture of his country. During that first day, I did a walking tour of some of the cities' landmarks and enjoyed some of Iceland's fine cuisine and craft beer. The people here seem warm and very friendly. Most of them speak very fluent English, though Icelandic is their native tongue. The weather is quite a bit cooler than what we've been experiencing in Atlanta over the past few months. The high on this first day is only about 55°F with a cold wind blowing in from the sea. My zeal for experience and adventure keeps me quite warm though. 

Having been awake for nearly twenty-four hours, I return to my hotel early and try to get a good night's sleep. I'm anxious though and sleep doesn't come as easily as I had hoped. Before I know it, my alarm is going off and it's time to repack my gear and head to the boss stop.

Day 1

I had made arrangements with the hotel to provide a quick breakfast in the lobby, which in hindsight was a good plan. I enjoy some hot tea and a very fresh croissant, while awaiting my taxi to the bus station. During my breakfast, I enjoy a nice conversation with a man from Chicago how is here doing some sightseeing with his family. When I mention hiking the Laugavegur Trail, his eyes light up and he explains that he has always wanted to do this, but has no experience with overnight hiking. I describe the itinerary and the plan to stay in huts along the route, which he seems to be more comfortable with. As my taxi arrives, he wishes me a great time and says he may try to do the hike in the future. 

It's a short taxi ride to the bus station where I will meet my guide and fellow adventurers. If I didn't have a large duffle of clothes, I probably would have just walked the mile or so. I arrive at the bus station about twenty minutes before the scheduled meeting time and take a seat. I arranged this trip through the company 57 Hours, which coordinates with local guide service providers all around the world. In this case, the hike will be lead by Icelandic Mountain Guides.

Our guide arrives right on time and after checking everyone in, we begin to load our gear onto the large, rugged tour bus outside. Little do I know what adventure we're in for. The bus ride to the trailhead takes approximately four hours and I use most of this time to get a little more sleep, since I didn't sleep as well as I had hoped last night. 

The last half of the ride is not very conducive to sleep though, as these are not ordinary buses and this is not a road. Icelandic tour buses are made to go off-road and to reach our trail head, we must do just that. I've never seen (or been riding) a tour bus doing river crossings in three-four foot deep raging water, but this trip is all about new experiences after all. We traverse several miles of roads comprised of polished river stones and cross a couple of these torrents before reaching Landmmannalaugar, which is an area within Fjallabak Nature Reserve in the highlands and the start of our trek.

Here, we finally get a chance to do a round of introductions and our guide explains our plan for the day. It includes about an hour here before we start the trail, while we enjoy lunch and for those interested in daring the cold, a chance to dip in the hot spring. It's noticeably colder at this higher elevation and I decide not to partake in the hot spring, but mostly because I forgot to bring a towel. A couple of my new friends do though and describe it as very enjoyable.

With our duffels loaded onto our support vehicle and our daypacks strapped to our backs, we finally begin this four day trek. This is not backpacking, but what is commonly referred to as slackpacking. Our duffel bags full of fresh cloths and other gear will be delivered to each hut along the way and available to us upon our arrival. All we need carry are any extra layers or snacks we may want through the day's hike.

The trail begins by hiking through the Laugahraun lava flow, which filled this valley about five centuries ago. The geothermal energy is still present here with numerous hot springs and steam vents dotting the landscape around us. It's interesting to me. I've hiked through numerous lava fields, especially in the western US, but those had very little vegetation growing on the basalt and other other expulsions. Here, lichens and even moss seem to be doing their work much faster than what I'm used to. It provides a great deal of contrast visually. It's also amazingly beautiful.

Our route is fairly obvious and easy to traverse. These early part is nearly flat, but after about a mile, we begin some minor climbs. Nothing crazy, but enough to get everyone breathing a little harder. This first day will include must of the ascent we will do along the trail. Looking back on the lava field from a higher elevation, it's truly breathtaking. The rich colors blend to make quite a palette. The black from the basalt, the green from the moss, the beige from the sand, and the white from the small patches of snow all combine into a feast for the eyes.

Occasionally, we come across wandering sheep. These are apparently free range animals that will be collected and sheared by the owners at some point. For now, that extra wool is keeping them warm and it's much needed. A cold wind has started to blow in on us and a light drizzle has begun to fill the air.

As we make our way through a desolate plan of volcanic ash with many patches of snow, the distant glaciers come into view and a an even greater chill begins to grip us. The drizzle has evolved into a light rain and most of my group has fully embraced their rain gear. Being stubborn, I put my rain coat on, but not my rain pants. I'm wearing water-resistant hiking pants and I was thinking that would be enough, but as the rain grows stronger and the winds continue to pickup, my legs are starting to get cold and definitely wet. Thinking we're almost to the hut, I decide to just continue without the rain gear. 

The last couple of miles are pretty tough given this weather and our guide tries to push the pace to get everyone to shelter as soon as possible. Though I'm wet and cold, I'm still enjoying every second of this hike. The black and white landscape comprised of ash and snow fills me with wonder, and as I force myself to take each step, I'm reminded of how lucky I am to be able to visit this place and others like it.

Finally arriving at our hit for the night, we pack in like sardines with others that have arrived before us. Apparently, there is a group that didn't want to hike to their destination in the rain and they are occupying the outer room to shelter from the storm. After working our way through the crowd though, we're able to get to our large bunk room, which will be shared by all sixteen members of our group. There are some single and some double beds, but we make do with what we have. I think all of us are just thrilled to be inside out of the storm. Unfortunately, this particular hut doesn't have showers available (though our accommodations for the other nights do). 

While we all relax and dry ourselves, our guide prepares a meal of cod in cream sauce and a fresh salad. We talk of today's adventure and look forward to the days to come. Soon our hot meal is delivered to the room and we all partake. 

It's time to crash for the night. Luckily, I was able to get a single upper bunk and should be able to enjoy a good night's sleep. We hiked about 6.6 miles today, which isn't much, but when combined with the bus ride and the weather conditions, made for quite a wild first day. I look forward to tomorrow.

Day 2

This time of year the days and nights are of similar length in this northerly land, unlike most of the year when one or the other dominates. I'm the first to awake and crawl out of my bed. It was very hot in our room last night. Everything here is heated geothermally and we have pipes running through our room. I take a seat at our shared dinner table, which is the center of the room and look out of the window at the harsh landscape surrounding us. There are a number of tents scattered around the hut and hidden away behind wind breaks. While I wouldn't have minded truly backpacking this trail, I'm kind of glad to have the warmth and a good night's sleep instead. 

Soon, the others rise and discuss how warm the room was. I don't think most of them slept very well due to the heat. Luckily, I was on the opposite side of the room from the pipes and while I was warm, it didn't really impact my sleep. Our guide brings in hot coffee and tea, and we all begin to rouse ourselves and prepare for the day ahead. A large pot of porridge is next and we get some much needed calories in our stomachs. 

Before long, we're back out on the trail trekking through the lava field once again. This part of the trail is full of rolling hills of ash and we must ascend and descend each of these little areas. In some cases, running water heated by the geothermal vents has carved caves in the fallen and layered snow. The whole scene is somewhat otherworldly, but gorgeous.

In the distance, the glaciers become more visible as we trek towards them. We pass more steam vents and hot springs, including one that has formed a small tiered waterfall over the orange sand. On one of the descents, a husband and wife from the Netherlands both manage to fall, but luckily are not seriously injured. The guide with assistance from myself and a couple of others try to attend to them the best we can. Falling on these steep and in some cases slippery sections is a definite concern for all of us, but luckily, that's the only incident.

We find a large stand of rocks to stop for a quick lunch. Our guide provided a number of options and chose to make a sandwich of traditional Icelandic flat break, butter, and cured sliced lamb meat along with some shavings of some kind of white cheese. It's not a lot of food, but it provides just he lift I needed. The lamb meat is quite delicious with just a hint of smoke.

As we approach the end of these lava field, a magnificent new landscape opens up before us in the distance. A green valley with small pyramidal mountains poking out of the flat valley, a large lake with a series of streams flowing into it, and high glacier-covered mountains in the far distance as a back drop. This has to be one of the greatest views in the world (and I've seen some really amazing ones). It's almost as if it were painted. Perhaps, there is some divine design to views like this. I'm not sure of that, but I am sure that my eyes and mind are delighted by what they are taking in. Awesome!

We descend into this wide open valley and continue to admire the views in front of us. Today, will be the first of our river crossings and knowing how cold this glacial melt must be, I'm not really looking forward to it, but it's part of the trip. Sitting on rocks on the near side of the small river, we all change into our water shoes and step into the frigid water. It's very cold, but not nearly as bad as I had anticipated. Luckily, we only have to cross ten or twelve feet here, and we're soon drying our feet on the far side. 

Our hut for the night comes into view in the distance, nestled alongside the lake known as Álftavatn, which also lends it's name to the hut complex. Soon, we have arrived and begin to sort our belongings into our room. Unfortunately, we'll have to share our room tonight with another large group. In total, the room is meant to accommodate thirty-two hikers. It's a tight squeeze, but we make do. 

We enjoy a nice dinner of traditional lamb stew, along with some sliced brie and smoked salmon as a starter and royal (chocolate) pudding for desert. Luckily, the weather was much more cooperative today and while we're all tired, I don't think anyone is quite as exhausted as we were yesterday, especially after enjoying a hot shower before bed. We're required to pay for the hot shower, but it's so worth it after hiking 7.3 miles today. Soon, we turn in for the night.

Day 3

With so many hikers staying in the same room last night, I didn't sleep quite as well, but still feel rested enough for our planned mileage today, which is a bit longer than the previous two days. After our traditional breakfast of porridge, we make a quick lunch to pack with us from assorted lunch meats and breads provided by our guide. Before leaving, I step onto the boardwalk bridges connecting the various buildings of the complex to just take in the view a bit. A morning fog has rolled in from the nearby lake and with the sun still on the ascent, I think it's going to be a good day.

Soon, we depart. The first part of the trail is similar to the days before, with an ash/soil base and low-lying grasses and moss covering most of the ground. We haven't yet seen a tree since starting the trail, though I'm told we will encounter some small ones on the final day.

After only about a mile or so, we approach another hut in the system. To reach it and the restrooms that many of our group want to use, we must cross a small bridge over a tiny stream. I glance at it and swore I saw all of the rungs on the makeshift bridge. However, my eyes deceived me and my second step finds the one missing rung. My leg juts through the bottom and I fall forward, catching myself with my hands. Ouch! I don't think I sustained any major damage, but when we reach the huts in a few yards, I'll check. It turns out, I scraped up my left shin a bit, but nothing serious. I sterilize it with an alcohol wipe and lower my sock a bit so as not to aggravate it. It will probably be sore for a couple of days, but I'll be fine.

It was just a short break and we're quickly back at it and approaching our first river crossing for the day. This one is a bit wider than yesterdays, but nothing too serious. It's strange, the water feels cold when I'm in it with my water shoes and pants rolled up, but as soon as I exit, I'm fine. I would have thought the cold wind would have made it colder upon exiting the water, but that's not the case.

Just a short distance further, we stop for lunch at a powerful waterfall that has carved a small canyon into the landscape. A gravel road nearby has been cut into the land and includes a bridge over the raging river, which we'll take advantage of after our snack break. I take the opportunity to snap a few pictures. Our guide puts her rain pants on and having learned my lesson from the first day, I follow her lead and do the same. It doesn't look like rain, but she seems to know best.

Our second river crossing is one to remember. It's actually two parts due to a small island that has formed in the middle. The polished black stones provide traction well enough, but the water itself feels like it melted from the glacier just around the corner and is possibly the coldest water I have ever experienced. It literally takes my breath as I plunge in up to just above my knee. I try to cross as quickly as possible in order to minimize the discomfort. It's so cold, my legs feel like they are being attacked by a thousand needles and the scrape from where I fell through the bridge goes numb briefly. On the other side, we all comment on how incredibly cold that water was and then just a minute or so after leaving the water, the blood returns to my left chin and the soreness kicks back in. Ouch!

As we continue on, the gentleman from the Netherlands that fell on day one finds another spot and faceplants once again. This time, he was right in front of me and I saw his feet get tangled in some rocks. I reached to grab him, but was not in time. He cut his hand a bit and we stop to dress it briefly. He's okay, but I think a little embarrassed. 

All of my new friends that are part of this group have been outstanding and it's been a pleasure to hike with them. There several Canadians, a few other Americans, and four individuals, including the couple I mentioned earlier, from the Netherlands. In addition our Icelandic guide is helped by a young man that is employed by the guide company to prepare supplies and was invited to assist on this trip leader. Fantastic people, each of them and I've really enjoyed our conversations.

We reach a fork in the trail and our guide offers as an option. We can head to the hut now and enjoy some refreshment or we can take the other side trail and explore the rim of the great Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon, which is nearby. Personally, I would have rather hiked to the canyon first, but the consensus is to got the huts first and then hike back to this fork and onto the canyon after we've rested a bit.

With folks warmed up, those of that want to explore the canyon rim head back out into the cold. There's a slight drizzle on the air once again, but nothing major and I have my rain pants on anyway. The hike to the canyon is short, but includes a few inclines. Once we reach our destination though, we discover that it's all worth it. I feel badly for the few members of our group that decided to wait at the hut.

Imagine if you will, a smaller version of the Grand Canyon of Arizona, but with black walls and green moss instead of the vibrant oranges and reds we're used to seeing. That should give you some idea of what our eyes are enjoying as we look deep into the canyon and to the river below. It's stunning!

Following the rim for a mile or so, we just see one spectacular view after another. Finally, we reach a point where we can view a horse tail waterfall on the other side of the canyon, which has carved through the volcanic stone to make something of a double-tier fall. It's quite nice. After admiring the waterfall for a short time, we head back to the huts. I didn't track this additional side hike, but I would estimate that we added another two miles or so to the 10.1 miles I tracked between our huts from last night to this night. 

Dinner tonight consists of perfectly prepared salmon filets with rice and salad. I've really been enjoying the cuisine of this country, which is based heavily on what is available to them in this northerly tundra and the surrounding seas. They eat a lot of lamb and a lot of fish, mostly salmon and cod. It's all very good and our guide has done wonderful job of preparing the meals. With our bellies full, we climb into our bunks and enjoy a quite night's sleep. Some of my new friends complain that I and a couple of others snore, but I think they are imagining things.

Day 4

Our final day on the trail begins as the others have with warm porridge and some fruit. Though, I had the option, I decided not to take a shower last night. As I mentioned previously, I forgot to bring a towel and I've been limited to using dirty sleeping t-shirts to dry myself when needed. I'll definitely get a shower tonight though.

This being our final day on the trail, I'm overcome with some small sense of sadness. I've thoroughly enjoyed this experience and spending time with new friends, but I know it will soon end. At least we have today, which will be the longest hike of the trip.

Most of the terrain today will take us across wide river beds formed by glacial melt and into the birch forests, which are covered by small trees no more than ten or so feet tall. They are still the first trees we've seen though and a welcomed site. I decide to wear my rain pants once again today and it's probably a good thing as we are hiking in a light drizzle for most of the day. 

Though the trees are short, this forest is lush. Our guide finds a couple of types of native berries along the way and offers us a sample. They are tart, but pretty good. I suppose if I were starving these would be a possible food source, but luckily, we've been fed very well along the trip. There are also a number of ground plants resembling small maple trees (though I don't think they are related), which appear in colors of orange and red against the backdrop of the ever-present green moss. This is the end of the season after all and it seems the plants here change colors just like they do back home. I would have expected nothing less.

We are descending a great deal today as we pass through the forest. With the rain it's a little slick and muddy, but small logs have been hammered into the ground to provide makeshift steps in many places.

As we approach the first hut at the end point (not the one we're staying at), we pass by a small cave. I poke my head in, but there isn't much to it. I had to check though. Curiosity always gets the better of me with things like this.

This hut is much like the others we have stayed at along our trek, but our guide tells us that our accommodations are another mile or so further and are by far the best anywhere on the trail. Unfortunately, we have to cross a very wide river bed to get to those accommodations. The river bed probably has more flow in the off-season, but for now just imagine a river bed about half-a-mile wide comprised of more of those polished black river stones and with numerous fast-moving streams snaking through it like fingers through a fashion model's golden hair. 

For the most part, we're able to find away around or across most of the small streams by rock-hopping. For the wider sections, there are movable bridges that get positioned throughout the season. They are a bit precarious, but they get the job done. There is though, one final cross that we're going to have to do on foot through the cold waters. There's no obvious way around or across it and there is no bridge in place. We put our water shoes back on and step into the frigid waters once more. It's very cold, but still not quite as bad as that one yesterday.

With that last hurdle overcome, we follow a gravel road another half-mile or so until our hut becomes visible in the distance. Once we arrive, we see exactly what our guide meant. Compared to the other huts where we have stayed, this is a mansion. We have a large kitchen and dining area separate from our sleeping area. The sleeping area itself is luxurious with roomy single beds and bunks. And showers . . . oh the showers are divine! Roomy, pressurized water as hot you like, and plenty of hooks and shelves to put dry clothes on. This may be one of the best showers of my life.

We hiked about 12.4 miles today, making this our longest day by some margin and we're all ready to relax a bit. The complex's office has sodas and beer. I try two the beers, but both are pretty horrible. It's fine though, I'll settle for a Pepsi Max, which is equivalent to what we call Pepsi One in the US. Our guide puts out trays of cheeses and salamis and other snacks, while she preps four lamb shanks and then carries them outside to an outdoor grill and gets the fire going. We're going to eat well tonight! In addition to the lamb, she prepares a corn salad and potato dish that is sort of like mashed potatoes, but with smaller roasted potatoes and carrots mixed in. It's all delicious and we eat our fill. We'll spend the night here and then get bussed out tomorrow. 

I think we all enjoy a great night's sleep in these comparatively lavish furnishings. Our breakfast today consists of eggs with leeks, toast, and hard salami. Our official trail mileage is 36.4 miles by my GPS track. Some of our group will decide to remain here at the hut, but for those interested, we're going to do another nearby hike (which I'll write about separately). The bus arrives around 3pm and we load our gear onto it. Now we get to enjoy another off-road tour bus adventure as we have numerous river crossings to get through on our way back to Reykjavik. 

Arriving at the bus station, we say our goodbyes and trade contact information. It's bitter sweet. We've been on amazing adventure together through some of the most beautiful landscapes I've ever seen, but parting way is always difficult. Though we only spent a few days together, I will miss many of my new friends and hope to see them on some other adventure at some point in the future.