After driving once again through Grand Teton National Park and along the John D Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway, we entered the gates of Yellowstone in the late morning. All through this region, I was taken aback by the pure lushness of the forest, and upon entering the park, it was only intensified. We arrived at the Grant Village and decided to stop for lunch, as we hadn't had any food yet. After a relaxing meal, we continue on to the mascot of the park, Old Faithful. While not the tallest of the geysers, it is the most predictable, with an average interval between eruptions of an hour and a half +/- ten minutes. Luckily we arrived just a few minutes before an anticipated eruption. We quickly made our way through all of the park facilities to the geyser viewing area. The park service has built a large board walk with bench seating for hundreds surrounding Old Faithful, and the crowds certainly turn out and fill them for this event. With no open seats in site, we simply stood behind the benches and waited. Just moments after arriving, we witnessed this geo-thermal wonder shoot scalding hot water 100+ feet into the air for a good three minutes or so. Of course, there were massive clouds of steam and gas spewing forth as well, all of which made for a splendid viewing.
Continuing on towards our campsite at Madison, we encountered a large number of visitor vehicles pulled off the road near a small river. Not used to this, we assumed there was something worth seeing here and decide to join them. There on the far shore of the stream, was a small herd of American Bison. So noble these beasts appear and so welcomed a site. We observed for a few minutes before moving on. However, this would be far from the last time we encountered these animals in the park.
We finally arrived at camp and began setting up the tent. Our campsite was very nice and had convenient access to a food storage box, the restrooms, and a small river. We called it a night and awoke early the next morning.
We decided to visit the numerous geyser basins between Old Faithful and our campsite on this second day in the park. I can't even begin to estimate how many hot springs and geysers and mud pots we observed. Each one of them with it's own distinct personality and characteristics, and each one a wonder unto itself. Of note, was the Grand Prismatic Spring, which is the largest of it's type in US and third largest in the world. In fact it is so large, the trail leading around it's edge gives a pitiful view of the feature. I had planned in advance and at the advice of a friend to hike up a small mountain overlooking the spring for a bird's eye view. Cass wasn't comfortable with the incline and waited at a nearby parking area while I made my way up a half-mile or so trail to the base of the hill. I climbed over fallen trees up a steep incline with poor footing looking for any type of clearing to get some shots of the spring below. Finally settling on a spot, I snapped a number of pictures of the magnificent feature. What an amazing site to behold. Those people below have no idea what they are missing. The large spring sizzles with steam rolling off it, but more noticeable than that is the magnificent coloration of the perimeter of the pools. Rings of deep reds, oranges, and yellows circle the ocean blue spring, all surrounded by a whitish surface. The color of the rings is caused by different strains of extremophile bacteria, which flourish at slightly different temperatures. Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful things I have ever laid my eyes on. With so much more to see and do, we moved on.
Making our way to the Mammoth Hot Springs area, we were once again in amazement of the site in front of us. Starting as far up the gigantic hill as one can see, stretch terraced pool spilling over into terraced pool. This repeats in what appears infinite times as the hot spring water makes its way down the mountainside. AS we learn, the terraced pools are formed by the mineral deposits as water slowly trickles down. The entire mountainside is covered in this calcium carbonate white, which patch's of reds, yellows, and greens where bacterial colonies have taken root. It's difficult to even describe in words the grandeur of this spectacle. Words may not do it justice, but I will forever remember the natural beauty I witnessed here. We walked a large section of the boardwalk that meanders through and around the various terraced areas of the hillside, at each turn in awe at some new formation of the minerals. Wow!!!
Returning to camp just before sundown, I decided to take a plunge in the river to clean some of the sweat and stink off of myself. The river has a strong current, but was not as cold as I expected. I did find it a bit difficult to walk along the slimy stones of the river bottom, but it was worth it just to refresh and recharge in the pure mountain stream. Time for bed.
Day three was our time to visit the famous Lower Yellowstone Falls and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone it has carved over the millennia. We first walked along the North Rim and got some fantastic views of the falls. I decided to talk a further steep trail down into the canyon for some close-ups. Really, really steep! After returning to the jeep, we drove a bit further to the South Rim and from here reached Artist's Point, which is said to be the most popular view in all the park. I can see why. This spot offers a completely unobstructed view of the mighty 300+ foot Lower Yellowstone Falls. Unlike the whispy falls in Yosemite Valley, this waterfall is as wide as the mighty river that feeds it and has carved out a canyon almost as mighty as the true Grand Canyon in Arizona, though not nearly as long. We take a few more pictures and decide to head on to our next destinations within the park.
Though we visited many other falls and springs on day three, the best two words I can use to summarize our day would be "Surprise Buffalo!". Nearly everywhere we went this day, we were greeted with buffalo (American Bison). It does my heart so good to see this mighty animal flourishing here, know that my ancestors nearly wiped the noble beast from existence a hundred years ago. While visiting one hot spring area, a lone bison decided to scatter the crowds of people by walking up onto the board walk. At other sites, we saw the great beasts relaxing near geysers and hot springs. In some cases, laying down right beside them, apparently oblivious to the heat. i wonder if the thick sulfur fumes provide the bison with some relief from the pesky insects.
What I would give to be witness to one of the gigantic heard movements of the mid-1800's across the great plains and before the shortsighted and incomprehensibly stupid and cruel pioneers devastated their numbers for sport. Those herds were said to be comprised of millions of head, and while the park's population is only a meager 4000 or so, it still is a great reminder of the power and righteousness of the conservation movement. May future generations continue the legacy started here. Enough of that though, it was time to head back to camp and prepare for our last full day in the park. On the way back, we encountered deer, coyote, elk, and even more bison.
For our final full day in the park, we wanted to visit the Lamar Valley in hopes of seeing some gray wolves or grizzly bears. While the openness of the valley and the river that nourishes it is a site to behold, we were left empty handed with regard to seeing any of our four-legged friends. We did see a number of bison (surprise!) grazing in the valley and stumbled across a cliff overlooking the river that offered a bird's eye view of an osprey nest below. Very cool! Finally, we returned to camp. There was some sadness in our hearts in knowing this was our last night in this marvel of a park, but we knew we would return someday. How could we not?
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