Many years ago when I was a boy, I remember hiking to a small waterfall in the green wood near my home. It was while on a field trip. In the years since, I've often thought of place, but had no idea of it's exactly location. My directional skills were not so developed at that age. Only recently, I discovered that waterfall is called Beaver Falls and is approximately a mile and half back in the woods on the property of the Nature Institute, off of Levis Lane and up the bluffs behind Blue Pool.
As I was in St. Louis on business, I took a few extra days to visit with family and friends. I also planned a little time to revisit the small waterfall from my childhood memory. After arriving at the trailhead, I reviewed the posted map, which is little more than a few lines carved and painted into a piece of plywood and posted as an information an informational sign. I sprayed myself down with mosquito repellant, without which I probably would have been eaten alive by the little buggers in this humid wood above the Mississippi River's limestone bluffs. And then, I was off on my little adventure into the past.
At first, the trail was well cut, but as I proceeded I found it getting less and less easy to distinguish trail from woods. I also could not get a sense of direction in relation to the map. Eventually, I discovered this was due to my having taking a wrong turn. This was with the help of a referenced marker, noting the beginning of the Underground Railroad here at Hop Hollow. According to the marker, this was the jumping off point for thousands of slaves seeking freedom in the North prior to Lincoln's emancipation proclamation. A humbling site to be sure.
Continuing on, now with a better sense of where I was, I came across a small group of whitetail deer. I stopped to watch them as they foraged the area. After a few minutes, they had moved on and I made my way to the dry creek bed as described on the map. Unlike other creeks, which I was familiar with in the area, this one had many limestone steps as it made it's way downhill toward the mighty river below. During a year without the terrible drought we are now in, each of these steps would have produced a small waterfall onto itself.
Further upstream, or at least what would have been upstream, I came to a carved out area sunken below the surrounding woods. While it was dry and no water currently flowed over the fifteen foot-tall cliff directly in front of me, there was no mistaking this as the falls from my memory. In years past, there had been a small pool at what would have been the base of the falls. Over time, it appears that pool has been filled with silt and mud, but a good rain would probably bring it to life once again.
Having fulfilled my quest and found this place from my childhood, I headed back to the car. It was great to have visited this place once again and I look forward to returning again someday.
Not long after I moved to Reno several years ago, I took a long drive up through the Black Rock Desert of Northern Nevada and eventually came out not far from Crater Lake. It was early in the season, but not knowing the snow conditions, I decided to go ahead and visit the park. While I was unable to camp on that trip due to the snow, I was overwhelmed by the magnificent blue vastness of this natural wonder. As my wife and I have been on number of trips over the last couple of years, I wanted to share this beauty with her.
Leaving Lava Beds, we made our way to the city of Klamath Falls and while we had intended to camp this night, the extreme heat and my wife’s lack of sleep from the night before prompted us to get a hotel room before continuing on into the park. We had a wonderful dinner and rose early to finish the drive to Crater Lake, an hour or so beyond Klamath Falls.
Entering the park, it’s a very steep road up to the ridge of the collapsed volcano, which has filled with snowmelt to become one of the deepest lakes in the world. We stop at the visitor center to get a map and try to figure out exactly what we want to do, and then make our way up to the lodge, which sits on the ridge of the lake.
Upon one’s first viewing of Crater Lake, the extreme blueness cannot be over stated. Living near Lake Tahoe for many years now, I have some basis for comparison and there really is none. Crater Lake, as we are later told by a ranger, has been scientifically proven to be the clearest lake in the world, which also means that on a day like today the blue sky above gives the lake the most amazing color known. While always somewhat reserved, it’s pretty obvious that my wife is enthralled by the wonder in front of her eyes. We walk casually around a paved trail at the lodge and then down a steep path to the man-made Sinnott Memorial Lookout, which offers an unobstructed view of the lake. It is truly awe-inspiring.
After reviewing the map, we decide to take the short drive around the rim trail to the East to a spot called Sun Notch. It is our hope that we will be able to see the smaller of the two islands, Phantom Shop, from this vantage point. A short hike uphill puts us at a terrific altitude and looking down directly onto the Phantom Ship, which while small from this perspective is actually something like 5 stories tall above the surface of the water. How it got is name is obvious, as it has the general shape of a pirate ship sailing on the calm lake currents. Unlike the much larger and obvious at first glance Wizard Island, this little feature is tucked back into a quiet cove, which probably adds to it’s mystery.
We head back to the campground and begin to set up camp in the hopes of catching a quick nap before meeting some friends at the lodge’s dining room for a late dinner. We awake after an hour or so and drive back up to the lodge to enjoy a wonderful meal and some cheerful company. After dinner, we chat in the fire-warmed lobby of the lodge until nearly 1:00AM. Finally looking at the clock, I suggest we should head back to camp. We wish our friends a safe journey home and walk out of the warmth of the lodge. We are all immediately awestruck by the lack of artificial light outside and the multitude of stars above us. The Milky Way is clearly visible in the heavens over our heads, and with the lake in the foreground, I can’t imagine a more divine image. Truly, truly amazing to see with human eyes. If only, I had the camera equipment to capture the image . . .
Arriving back at our campsite, Cass and I bundle up for what will prove to be a fairly cold night in a tent. We awake the next morning, break camp, and begin the long drive back home. The trip was definitely worth it.
My wife and I had decided to take a weekend camping trip to Crater Lake, but I thought it would be a crime not to visit Lava Beds on the way, since it is only a slight detour. We got an early start and made our way up through Susanville until we reached the turn-off for Lava Beds. After a twenty or so mile trek down a poorly maintained highway, we saw a sign announcing our entrance into the National Monument and asking us to check in at the visitor center a few miles ahead.
Like all rangers in the service of the National Parks, we met some extremely friendly and helpful rangers at the visitor center. They provided some maps and asked us to check in at the White-nosed Bat Syndrome table outside, which we were happy to do. They asked the routine questions about other caves we had visited and I think were quite astonished at the number and diversity that we had been to in the last twelve months. We disinfected our shoes and gear and when on about our business.
Pulling out of the visitor center parking lot, we took a quick left turn to drive around Cave Loop, which contains the highest concentration of lava tube caves in the park. Not being thoroughly prepared for any difficult spelunking, we decided to stick to some of the easier caves.
My friend, Nick, recommended the first one we explored. Golden Dome cave is noteworthy for two features. First, it has a figure-8 configuration and secondly, the bacteria for which the cave gets its name. We parked the jeep and walked a few yards to an ominous steel ladder reaching out of a large hole in the ground. After making the decent into the darkness, we turned on our flashlights and began to explore this subterranean mystery. Remnants of cooled lava abound in this underground cavern, which as I understand it, was formed when the outer surface of the lava flow begins to form a crust as it cools. Later, the still molten lava at the core of the flow drains away leaving the negative space behind in the form of a tubular cave. We continue exploring the walls and ceiling, and eventually begin to see the golden coloration of the bacteria on the surface of the rock. It looks almost like gold dust and was very beautiful.
Moving on, we visited Sunshine Cave, which is named for two openings in the cave ceiling that act much like skylights illuminating the darkness. This one was a bit more challenging to make our way into due to some moisture on the surface and some steepness to the cave floor, but we persevered and enjoyed the cavern’s beauty.
Having a keen interest in Native American petroglyphs and pictographs, I couldn’t resist hiking out to Big Painted Cave and Symbol Bridge. Cass elected to stay in the jeep while I walked the almost two mile trail through the desert to the caves. Along the way, I was greeted with numerous collapsed lava tubes and a small cinder cone volcano in the distance, which served as a stark contrast to Cinder Cone in Lassen with the amount of vegetation growing on it. Obviously, this volcano had been formed somewhat earlier than the one I had visited only a few weeks ago. Upon reaching Big Painted Cave, I was surprised to find that it was much less of a cave than the others we had explored. While the entrance was much larger and required a little climbing to get to, there really wasn’t much more to the cave than this large room at the entrance, fully illuminated by the sun. I searched, but failed to find any pictographs here, though the coloration of the rock formations was magnificent.
Only half a mile further, I found the entrance to Symbol Bridge Cave. Much like its neighbor, the cave is little more than one large room at the entrance. However unlike it’s twin, the pictographs here are numerous and obvious. I hiked a rugged little trail through the rocks to approach the pictograph panels, which were some of the most visually stunning I have seen in my travels.
I returned to the jeep and we continued on our journey across the Oregon border to our next stop. Perhaps, I will return to Lava Beds someday with proper gear and explore some of the more difficult caves.
Not really know what to expect of this national park we decided to simply drive into it and stop at whatever caught our attention. We were ware of some of the mighty sequoias growing within the boundaries of the park, but beyond that we were fairly unaware of what sites we might see. What we found was heaven. This canyon, much like Yosemite Valley, was formed by glacial movements polishing the granite valley walls. In fact, it reminded me of a much more untouched Yosemite. The visitors here were sparse, unlike the famous valley to our north.
Stopping for one picture after the next, we tired, but couldn’t hope to capture this divine place with a camera. After reaching the bottom of the canyon, we stopped for lunch at he Cedar Grove lodge, which sits alongside a quite piece of the Kings River, responsible for cutting the original canyon long before the glaciers took their artistic brushes to it. Continuing on, we were amazed at the power of the river as we drove beside raging rapids littered with giant granite boulders. The sound of the water crashing over small falls and rapids like this can’t be explained; it must be experienced. It speaks directly to the soul and renews it. Muir said that all people need to get out into the wilderness to recharge themselves. He was right.
Continuing on, we stop at a couple of magnificent waterfalls, including Grizzly Falls, which is a broken fall of a couple of hundred feet. We meet several picnickers at the base of the fall and share in raw beauty of this place.
Unlike many national parks, this one seems to be a celebration of the land. This untamed place is a favorite destination of backpackers and explorers, as it is largely untouched by the “improvements” of the modern age. Only this single road enters the park, but beyond that are hundreds of square miles of wilderness. I hope to return someday to see more of this untouched and untamed land.
As we leave the valley and return to the entrance, we stop for a couple of other noteworthy places. Before heading into Grant’s Grove, we take the jeep up a couple of rugged back roads to visit Stump Meadow and the Chicago Stump. These are painful reminders of what tragedies were affected by our recent ancestors in the quest for greed, with no thought to words preservation for their children or children’s children. These stumps are the remnants of more might sequoias ripped from the ground by the “progress” of man’s civilization. The Chicago Stump in particular tells a sad story. As explorers brought tales of the mighty trees back east, many people refused to believe that any tree so large could exist. As proof, the loggers cut down the General Noble Tree (what remains is known as the Chicago Stump), broke it into pieces, shipped it east, and reassembled it for spectators. Even after seeing the reconstructed tree with their own eyes, many onlookers still thought it was a hoax. The mighty tree had been killed for nothing, but the vanity and ignorance of mankind. It breaks my heart to see a place like this.
Stopping again at Grant’s Grove to see more of the giant sequoia, including the General Grant tree, we realize the hour is getting late and decide to head back to camp. After a visit from our friend the mule deer again, we turn in with thoughts of wild past of this land in our heads.
Explorer and naturalist John Muir worked tirelessly to preserve the wonders of the Sierra for future generations. The Sequoia are but one magnificent example of the rewards of his life’s work. Driving up highway 180 from Fresno, my wife and I began seeing a large forest fire on the slopes we believed to be part of the park, and we feared that some of the mighty Sequoia might be lost as a result. As we checked in, I asked the ranger about it and he put our minds at easy by explaining that it was a prescribed burn, one of many that are done annually by the Park Service in an effort to clean up dry brush on the forest floor and prevent truly damaging fires from threatening the forest. The Park Service has learned that forest fires, while destructive are part of the natural ecosystem and cannot be fully suppressed without terrible consequences to the ecosystem. We learn more every day about how better to live in harmony with the world around us.
Sequoia, the word itself, sounds mighty and rightly so. Some of the trees in this very forest are the largest living things on the face of the Earth, by volume. I have visited other groves of these behemoths. The Mariposa and Calaveras groves to the north are both wonderful islands of Sequoias unto themselves, but don’t even begin to compare to the sheer number of big trees in this park, including the largest tree in the world, General Sherman.
As we arrive late in the afternoon, we content ourselves to get our camp set up and relax through the evening over a warm campfire. What a peaceful night’s rest it is possible to get here in the wilds.
Waking early, but not too early, we head out for our daily adventure, which begins with a trip to the ranger station and then on to the Giant Forest Museum, which is dedicated to educating park visitors on the majesty and fragility of mighty sequoia. The museum is well worth the stop, not only for the Sentinel Tree, which guards the entrance, but to learn about the nature and environment these trees thrive in.
Moving on, we drive down the mountain to Hospital Rock, which contains a number of beautiful Native American pictographs, careful preserved by an awning of limestone. Nearby, we find another example of Miwok presence as there is a small grinding rock overlooking the creek below. While this small sub-section of the park has no obvious connection to the giant trees for which the park is named, it was still a worthwhile stop. Seeing the markers of these little settlements all over California gives one some idea of what life must have been like in the past.
Driving back up the mountain, we arrive at the General Sherman area with just enough time to catch a ranger-led lecture in front of the mighty tree. As Cass's leg has been bothering her, I let her out at the site and drive around the to the backside of the area to park the jeep. I didn’t expect it to be such a hike from the parking lot to the tree, but after a double-timed hike, I made it just in time. The ranger was knowledgeable and gave a wonderful presentation on the history of the park, the General Sherman tree, and the efforts to preserve the sequoia.
After an adventure filled day, we returned to our campsite and began preparing some dinner. Shortly after we began our meal, we were visited by a curious mule deer buck. He seemed to want to say hello to each of the campers in our area as he strolled from one site to the next, making friends all along the way. We turned in pretty early and prepared for the next day in the adjacent Kings Canyon.
Only a couple of miles down the road from Black Chasm Cavern, we arrived at our second stop on this weekend adventure. The Chaw’se Indian Grinding Rock State Park was the ancestral home of a local band of the Miwok people. Here a large slab of marbleized limestone is filled with thousands of mortar holes used by the Miwok to grind acorns from the local oak trees into a paste used in breads and other staple foods of the tribe. This particular site is the home to the largest number of mortar holes in any given location, but is far from the only site of its type.
A small museum at the park is dedicated to the preservation of the Miwok Culture and a nearby village reconstruction shows how the Miwok lived. As I understand it, the local Miwoks still use the ceremonial round house for a few of their annual events. Its good see the effort put into saving this rich history of our land.
A short path from the museum leads out to the limestone slab and then around it in its entirety. It is something to behold the holes themselves range anywhere from 2 to 10 inches deep and must have taken many generations to grind to such depths. I can’t help but visualize tribal life at this site with numerous individuals hard at work making a living from the bounty of the surrounding lands. How peaceful and spiritual it must have been.
My wife and I had decided to take a weekend camping in Central California, specifically in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. There were a couple of sites to see along the way and the underground chambers of Black Chasm Cavern were the first. The drive to Volcano, CA, which is very near the National Natural Landmark, was beautiful, but uneventful. We arrived just in time for the tour. We hurriedly paid our admission fees and headed down to the cavern entrance with the tour guide.
This cave boasts some of the most plentiful and magnificent helictite formations in the world. These crystal formations are thought to form when mineral rich water under immense pressure is forced through microscopic cracks in the surrounding water. The result are amazing crystalline shapes that seem to defy gravity.
The cave tour itself is fairly short and consists of only three chambers, but each has its own character of mysterious beauty. The final chamber, the Landmark Room, contains a wall with thousands of helictite formations and is the major reason for the site’s designation as a natural landmark.
