After parking the car, we begin marching up the healthy incline of a gravel road. It's hot and the path is pretty steep, but we just take our time and ensure we are drinking enough water. Along the way, we continue to discuss our plans for the rest of our trip in the Pacific Northwest. We encounter some great viewpoints and have to step over some giant slugs cross the path, but we slowly make our way up the steep mountain.
Continuing on my trip with my friend Nick, we had planned to drive from Portland to the Mount St. Helens Volcanic National Monument this morning to do some hiking and see the blown out mountain. As a child, I remember my second grade teacher wheeling in a television on a cart and letting our classroom watch the devastation of the 1980 eruption. I've always been curious to see this landscape in person.
Unfortunately, there are a number of road and area closures. The information available online does not match what we encounter when we try to explore the area and barrier across our planned route forces us to change plans. Many times these kind of trips are like this and we just roll with the punches, but it would be nice if the Forest Service would get their information straight.
Heading back the way we came, we encounter a sign for Iron Creek Falls and decide to check it out. A short downhill hike of no more than a quarter-mile leads us to a fantastic waterfall that has carved it's way through solid rock and now expels a huge amount of water into the creek below. I'd estimate the height of the waterfall to be roughly forty feet, but it's difficult to judge as we aren't able to get very close to it. It is a very picturesque waterfall though.
After exploring down the creek just a little bit, we head back to the car and start to discuss our options. We want to get some miles in today, but the closures are going to put a damper on some of that.
I flew up to Portland, Oregon earlier today. My good friend, Nick, and I are going to be doing some backpacking and hiking in and around the Pacific Northwest over the next week or so. We have a lot of interesting stops planned for this trip. After getting checked in to our hotel, we decided to get the party started and drove out to the magnificent Multnomah Falls, which is just a few miles east of the city.
This well known waterfall is just off of I-84 and can be seen clearly from the road. For those wanting an even better view (like us), there is a large parking area between the directional sides of the highway. We parked here and got a few shots, but discovered that the walk up to the waterfall is a reserved time entry and they are sold out for the day. Luckily, it's open access after 5:00 pm. We decide to get some dinner nearby and then return.
After enjoying a delicious smoked salmon quesadilla, we head back and start the short hike to the base of the waterfall. The waterfall itself is split into two sections. The upper falls plummets 542 feet from the tall glacially carved cliffside above. After regrouping in the pool below, the waters then flow over the lower falls, which is only 69 feet. It's actually quite amazing and rivals some of the waterfalls in Yosemite to my mind. Nick and I walk up the paved trail to the bridge above the lower falls to get a few more shots. This bridge is the iconic image of the waterfall and offers some great views. With that though, it's time to head back. We want to get an early start tomorrow.
I was the first to wake and start getting active and soon got some water boiling for breakfast and my morning tea. Got to get that caffeine injection. Soon, the others roused and began making their own morning preparations. Before long, we were breaking down camp. I hadn't plan to start he hike today through Sitton's Gulch until about 11:00, but with the heat, everyone was anxious to start earlier. After we packed up, we drove individually over to the main trailhead and started our hike.
The first section along the eastern rim is the same as we hiked yesterday afternoon, but at the proper junction, we turn right and head down a large number of wooden and steel steps to see the waterfalls and then onto Sitton's Gulch. I've hiked this trail once before and it is one of my very favorites in this state. It reminds me a bit of Yosemite in that there are a huge number of waterfalls (of varying sizes) along the route. The first of which is Cherokee Falls, which plummets some sixty feet over a sheer cliff into the large pool below. I've visited this waterfall when it was raging, but due to the recent lack of rain, it's only a small stream currently. That doesn't detract from its beauty though and being here in the shade with the moisture from the waterfall in the air is quite refreshing and cooling.
Next, we visit Hemlock Falls, which is similar in appearance, but a bit taller at ninety feet. It also has a massive boulder right in the middle of the pool that it empties into and requires a bit of rock scrambling to get close to. Again though, very beautiful even with the lower water flow.
Though not a long trail, there are quite a few shallow climbs and even a couple of steeper ones through this section. On either side of the trail and in the path of the creek, you can see boulders, both large and small, that have tumbled down from the high canyon walls above over the eons as erosion does works its magic.
Soon, we reach the trailhead at the far end of the canyon and have to turn back and retrace our steps. One of the hikers with me comments on how different everything looks going in this direction. He's got a point though. We do our best to avoid a number of millipedes that we encounter on the trail and to keep ourselves well hydrated and cool. As I know the return trip is much more uphill than the beginning and with the temperatures climbing, I keep us at a very reasonable pace.
And then we reach the stairs. While not that challenging coming down, the 1,200 or so steps that we have to ascend on our way back up will give all of us quite the "leg day". We start up them at a steady pace and take a couple of rests along the way. Eventually, we reach the top and take a minute to rest and hydrate. We're all pretty tired after this climb, but I think everyone had a great time and really enjoyed this hike. Sitton's Gulch Trail, including both waterfalls is right at 5.5 miles and remains one of my favorite hikes in Georgia. We say our goodbyes and head for home.
Cloudland Canyon in northwestern Georgia is arguable the most scenic state park in the state. It certainly is in my opinion. I've visited here a few times since moving to Georgia, but this weekend, I decided to host a campout complete with a couple of planned hikes for the Meetup group that I often hike with. I'm calling the event Cloudland Canyon Campstravaganza. Though many members expressed interest, we only had four others including myself show up. Ah well, since we have one of the large group sites reserved, we'll be able to spread out nicely.
After arriving at he park and checking in, I made my way to the walk-in campground to scout it out. Soon after others started arriving and we took some time to set up our tents and such. At approximately 3:15, we carpooled over to the other side of the canyon to begin our planned hike. We ended up a group of six in total. Two members wanted to do the hike, but not camp and one gentleman that signed up and paid for camping, didn't show up. It's a good group though and the first time here for a couple of the individuals. We take a few minutes to let them take in the sweeping views of the canyon before heading out on the West Rim Trail.
I tried to hike this trail on my first trip to this park, but ended up getting rained out and had to stop just a short distance into it. With clear skies and temperatures in the mid-nineties, I don't think that will be an issue today. The trails trail starts near the interpretive center and follows the eastern side of the canyon at first before dropping down above Cherokee falls and crossing over to to the western mesa. One of the hikers says something about this being as beautiful as the Grand Canyon, to which I strongly disagree, but it is quite majestic in its own right.
Along the way, we are afforded many great viewing areas and overlooks and the group is in awe, especially the 'first-timers'. With the high temperatures and very high humidity, I try to keep the pace relatively slow. We don't need anyone getting overheated. Soon, we reach the northern most point of the lollipop trail and continue through the woods along the wester side of the loop section before returning the way we came.
As four of us finish up, I notice that two have fallen behind and head back to check on them. They were getting hot and tired and had to rest for a bit, but they're both okay and we walk the final section to rejoin the others. I advise everyone to drink some cold water as we return to camp. The distance for this one is about 4.8 miles. Such a great hike to do this time of year and now, we'll head back to our campsite, get a fire going, enjoy some cold beer, and roast some hotdogs over the open fire. Life is good!
The drive to the trailhead is uneventful, though a little bumpy on the final section. There is plenty of parking and I quickly head up a shallow incline along a gated gravel road. This is the Pocket Trail and it's only a short distance before I reach my destination. Far below me, I see the rock formation I sat at on that previous hike. We haven't had rain in a couple of weeks and the waterfall is completely dry. Further, from this point, there is no safe way to get down to it, but I do hear creek water running in the distance and people talking. So, there must be another trail. When I return to my car, I realize that the boardwalk trail also starts from this trailhead and that is where those voices I heard must have been. I don't have time to hit that one as well, but at least I confirmed my memory of this place. I'd like to return when the waterfall is actually running.
I arrived at the parking area and road-walked a short distance to the beginning of the well-marked trail. Some trail reports that I had read mention the trail being overgrown, but at least the early part of it seems to be pretty well maintained. There is a lot of poison ivy though, which makes me glad I wore long pants and a long-sleeve shirt. It's scorcher though with temps in the low 90's and humidity to match. This is actually one of the hottest days I've experienced since moving to Atlanta nearly five years ago. Well, I'm here now and I'm going to finish this trail regardless of the conditions.
The trail sort of meanders through the woods and all the while I'm on the lookout for sourwood trees, of which I never find any. After about a mile, the trail takes a downturn and descends to Nancytown Creek, which it follows for a short distance to Nancytown Falls, which is actually a pretty nice waterfall, comprised of a number of large granite boulders in the creek with water cascading over them approximately thirty-five feet tall.
Heading back out the way I came in, I complete the loop by traversing a very narrow trail through the lush greenery and then finally connecting up with a gravel road that leads back to the trailhead. It's unfortunate that I never found the sourwood trees, but the waterfall was nice and I'm glad to have knocked this one off of my "to do" list. Total distance was only about 3.4 miles, but the heat and humidity made it seem much harder than it should have been.
The Chenocetah Tower was built as a fire lookout in 1937 as part of the North Georgia Upland Game Conservation Project, which aimed to reforest formerly privately owned land and open it to the public for recreation purposes. The tower overlooks Lake Russel for which the recreation area is now named. On my way to hike in the area, I decided to stop and walk the short distance to the tower and check out it's history.
It's an imposing structure standing some 54 feet tall and providing views of the surrounding forest from an elevation of 1,830 feet. I surprised to learn that it is the only granite fire tower in the entire United States. Locals have made organized efforts to preserve this now retired landmark, and thanks to their efforts it remains in very good condition.
The race begins at the Venue near the Thomas Wolfe Memorial. I had stayed at a nearby hotel and only had to walk a couple of blocks to the start line. It feels like it's going to be a good morning for a race. The temperatures are good and though there are storms on the way, I think I'll be done before they arrive.
At the appointed time, we line up and with a countdown from "10" to "Go", we're off. The first couple of miles zig zag through the cities South Slope, an area filled with breweries and well known to me. Soon though, we hit the French Broad River and being running along it's parallel trails on the RAD (River Arts District) paved trails. It's actually really nice. Though, I'm not really in shape for this, I'm feeling pretty good and maintain a slow running pace only stopping to walk up the steep hills when I get to them.
As the trail nears the finish line, I know I haven't performed as well as I could have, but I'm not feeling totally exhausted, which is a good sign. I cross the finish line with a time of 2:59:45. This is almost exactly an hour slower than my personal best, but knowing that I could have gone a bit faster is encouraging. I saved a little too much in the tank this time, but still came in under the 3-hour mark. That works for me. Overall, this was a nice course and I really enjoyed the race. I will likely run this one again at some point in the future.
My outdoor-oriented stop today will take me to Setrock Creek Falls, which requires another short hike. This one is listed as 1.1 miles out and back and starts from the Black Mountain Campground in Mount Mitchell State Park. Luckily there is a lot of parking here and I have no trouble finding a spot. The trail leads through the campground and then breaks off from the Mount Mitchell Summit Trail. I'll have to hike that one someday, but with a half-marathon to run tomorrow, now is not the time.
After just a short distance, I arrive at the waterfall and I have it all to myself for these few minutes. It's another cascade like my previous stop and this one doesn't have quite as much water flowing, but it's still a site to see. I snap my pictures and head back to the car. Content that I got some good mileage in without taxing my legs too much, I decided to head to a nearby brewery to relax a bit.
Asheville and western North Carolina are really beautiful areas and offer some of the best scenery of Appalachia to be had. Unready to call it a day just yet, I decided to drive to a couple of nearby waterfalls. Both of which are only short hikes, but should offer some great views. The first is Roaring Fork Falls due east of Mount Mitchell. When I arrive the small parking area is overflowing, but a car is just pulling out and gives me the perfect spot to pull into.
The trail to the falls is mostly a gravel road and as I hike, the sun beats down on me overhead. I do my best to stay in the shade, but at this time of day, the sun is directly overhead. I'm encouraged to pass a number of hikers walking the back to the parking lot and it gives me hope that I'll be able to enjoy a uncrowded view of the waterfall. The total distance out and back is only 1.3 miles and before long, I hear the roaring of the falling waters and the beautiful waterfall comes into view. It's a really nice cascading fall and there are only a couple of other people here taking it all in. Among them, a young lady is sitting on a rock right out in the middle of the creek. I ask her permission to jump to another rock in front of her just long enough to snap a shot from this angle. She thanks me for asking and grants me her blessing.
With a few pictures of the waterfall now stored in the memory of my iPhone, I head back to the car. I hope the next stop on my list is just as majestic as this one was.
I chose to hike a section just northeast of town from Craven Gap to the Haw Creek Overlook. From the map, it seemed mostly flat and with a distance I felt I could handle without any leg fatigue that might hurt my time at the half-marathon tomorrow. I woke up a bit later than I had planned, but I don't really have anything I have to do today and so, it really has no impact.
Driving the windy Town Mountain Road, which runs parallel but above the Blue Ridge Parkway, to the trailhead, I encounter a black bear running across the road right in front of me and climbing up the bank to my left. I know there are a great many bears in this region, but this is the first time I've seen one myself. It's unfortunate, as this is a residential area with many homes and the bear surely makes a living by digging through our trash.
Reaching the parking area, I take a couple of minutes to get my bearings before heading out. It's a little confusing here due to the junction of this road with the Blue Ridge Parkway and a couple of different paths into the woods. I eventually figure it out though and begin hiking the trail. It's lush and green all around me this time of year, though the trail is well maintained. I do spot a lot of poison ivy though and will have to be conscious of where I step. As I expected, the trail is mostly flat with just a few little climbs.
As I approach the southern end of my planned trail, there is a fairly steep climb followed by a decent. One small section has some stone steps placed to aid in the ascent. Dropping down the other side, I see the sign for the overlook and decide this would be a good place to stop and enjoy a granola bar and some water. It's not that hot, but it is so very humid here. As I join some other hikers out on the rocky clifftop with the Blue Ridge Parkway far below, I'm actually a little surprised to realize that I'm experiencing a fear of heights. I don't think this spot is particularly dangerous, but for whatever reason, I feel how tense my legs are and an elevated heart rate. I finish my bar and get some water, while enjoying the view. I'm somehow relieved though when I finally decide to head back to the trail. Strange.
The return trip requires attack that small mountain again and I feel up to the challenge. As I reach the bottom of the other side, I encounter a small box turtle on the trail. I try to not to bother him, but he still retreats mostly into his shell as a defensive tactic. I snap a picture and wish him a good day before continuing north back to my car.
Like last year, I decided to attend one of the Blue Ghost Firefly events at the Cradle of Forestry near Asheville, North Carolina. Blue ghosts are a rare species of firefly that only live in remote forested areas of Appalachia. Unlike their cousins, these fireflies emit a bluish-gray light and often maintain it for a minute or two instead of flashing. Each year, the Cradle of Forestry offers evening hikes on the paved trails around their facility to view these spectacular creatures.
The event started with little storytelling in the facilities amphitheater. As we listened to the tale of a lost boy lead home by the blue ghosts, the sunset faded and darkness settled on the forest around us. At around 9:15 PM, we headed into the woods along the paved path. Attendees are asked to only use flashlights with a red filter to preserve everyone's night vision. I did my best to avoid using a light at all, though I did have one in my pocket.
I walk a short distance to a little forested cove that I remember being a pretty good spot last year and just wait for the magic to begin. While I wait, I begin chatting with a young lady from Denver. Together we spot, a number of the elusive little critters. While both genders flash, it's only the males that fly and they use this ability to hover over the ground in search of a mate. Over the next twenty minutes or so, we see more and more of the eerie blue specs of light. We chat while we're watching. She and her family have come all the way from Denver just for this event.
Realizing that we've been here for a while, we move onto another section of the trail and experience the highlight of the tour. The trail is very dark and it's almost impossible to see other attendees until they are almost in your face. This happens a few times along our route. As we enter another dark cove, one of the most magical things I have ever seen occurs. We are greeted by a collection of multiple species of fireflies flashing like a laser light show. Not only do we have the blue ghosts, but there are also the much more common yellow species. There have to be a couple hundred of them just in this little area and the light show they put on is like nothing I've ever seen. My new friend, Danielle, describes it as something out of Shakespeare's A Midsummer's Night Dream. I can definitely relate. It's a truly spectacular natural show that we are witnessing.
After this stunning event, I decide I should leave and let her enjoy it with her family. We say our goodbyes and I continue along into the dark along the paved path. I spot a few more blue ghosts, but as it is getting late and I have another hour to drive to get to my hotel in Asheville, I decide to head out. What an amazing experience though!
When I arrived at the designated parking area, it was full and other members were directing us to a grass-area below the parking lot for more parking. With some good direction, we packed our cars in like sardines in a can and gathered the large group. As we were right by the highway, our organizer waited until we had crossed and were some distance away from the road noise before doing our introductions. That was probably wise.
The trail was labeled both on alltrails.com as well as Google Maps as the PVS Trail, though after some research I have not been able to find out what "PVS" stands for (which is a bit irritating to me). The organizer has never heard this name and only things about the trail in terms of linking Buford Dam to Settles Bridge, neither of which we will get near on today's hike.
We begin by following the Chattahoochee for a ways north. It's uncharacteristically clear today, with a bluish-green tint. Normally, this famous river is as muddy as can be and with the recent rains, it's a bit surprising to see it in this condition, but it's a welcomed site and quite beautiful. This part of the trail is pretty well cut, but soon, the maintained portion ends and we are bushwhacking.
Upon arrival at my car, I see we got in just about 5.9 miles today. That's a little less than I had hoped, but it will have to do. We say our goodbyes and I end up joining a couple of the hikers for some beverages at a nearby restaurant. Not a bad way to spend a gloomy Sunday.
Arriving at the designated time, I met up with the group. The organizers and our ranger/guide gave a quick introduction and then provided special tags for our cars and asked us to move them to the employees parking lot, which we all did. After reconvening, we hit the trails. It was approximately 7:00 PM when we started. Apparently the park offers this night hike occasionally, but with the assistance of the club, has extended it from two miles to five miles.
We make our way down to the creek, which is much calmer than the last time I was here, but still provides some pretty views. The ranger is full of information about the plants and animals we encounter and we encounter quite a few of the later, including toads, turtles, and deer. As we get further into the evening and it begins to get a bit darker, we almost step on a couple of toads who have ventured out onto the trail. And the deer, they are all over the place this time of the day, including one that has swam or waded out to a marshy island in the middle of the creek.
As we continue our loop, we hike by the ruins of the Old Manchester Mill. It's an impressive site, but I've seen it many times before. What remains of the formerly five-story structure is one of the highlights of the park. Over the past year, a large observation deck has been constructed overlooking the ruins and the creek beyond. There's also a side channel leading up to the mill ruins that was build by enslaved peoples prior to the civil war. This trench was made by building retaining walls from local stones and diverted water directly to the mill's waterwheel. Only segments of the retaining wall remain.
Arriving back at the visitors center, the rangers open up the building and allow us to use the restrooms. It has started to sprinkle rain and it's time to head home. It was a fun little adventure and we ended up hiking about 6.3 miles. I really appreciate the park rangers and what they do, both to educate the public as they did for us, as well as to serve those in need like our overexerted hiker.
