Lyell Canyon (Yosemite National Park, California)

Generally speaking my backpacking trips have not gone to plan this year. Be it weather, regulation, or just unforeseen timing issues, I have not been able to complete any of the six or so trips I had planned for this year as I had planned them. And while I have been able to do a great many hikes and see some beautiful country, it would be nice to have something work out as it was planned.

I have explored quite a lot of Yosemite National Park in the many years I have lived in Reno, but one area I had not visited was Lyell Canyon. Originally, my buddy bill was going to join me for this quick overnight trip, but he was forced to work and when I offered up the vacated backcountry permit, another friend, Nick E. quick spoke up and asked to join me. I was actually not aware that Nick enjoyed backpacking and as it turns out, he really hasn't had much experience doing it, though he has camped a hiked a lot.

In order to claim the reservation I had made some months ago we needed to arrive at the backcountry office prior to 10 AM and so we left Reno about 6 AM, with the intention of making a traditional stop for breakfast at the Whoa Nelli Deli, the best gas station food on the planet. We entered the park, grabbed our permits, and were on the trail by 10 AM. I couldn't help but laugh as fellow hikers/backpackers looked at Nick's rig in amazement. He had a nice pack, but attached to the back of it, his sleep bag was at least as large as the rest of his pack, making for a protrusion approximately 3 feet out from his back. It was quite amusing.

The trail is really well maintained and as we passed over some of the bridges near the trail head, I was thankful that the reports I had read were outdated. I had imagined and prepared for several creek crossings at this early part of the hike. The appearance of the bridges over Lyell Creek were a pleasant surprise in a year that saw record precipitation in the Sierra Nevadas.

As far as hikes go, this was a relatively easy one with little elevation change as we follow the wide canyon cut by Lyell Creek several miles towards Donahue Pass. The creek flows as sheets of water of numerous granite slabs and outcroppings. Nick and I take some time to explore a bit as we follow the blue waters of the wide creek. I'm not actually sure where the Lyell Creek becomes the Tuolumne River, but to the casual observer, they would appear to be one in the same, both on the map and in person.

Looking far down the valley, we can see the only glaciers remaining in Yosemite National Park at the edge of Donahue Pass. We toy with the idea of hiking that far, but I'm really looking forward to a relaxing weekend and so we, stop well short of the switchbacks leading up and over the pass on the John Muir Trail. I really want to through hike that trail someday, but not today.

Finding a nice clearing, we begin to set up camp. Previous inhabitants have nicely arranged a fire pit and cleared out some areas for tents, which Nick and I take full advantage of. Truly, this is an amazing campsite. We are sheltered from the wind by the small trees. No 'widow-makers' loom overhead to fall on us as we sleep. The creek is only 100 or so yards away and provides not only a terrific water source, but a small nearby waterfall provides wonderful backcountry background noise. There's plenty of fallen/decaying logs to fuel our campfire. It's pretty much perfect.

As I scout the area, I discover the nearly-clean remains of a small dear only 20 or so yards from our tents. It's a dark reminder of the wild country that we are in. Nick and I pass the evening hours discussing life, the universe, and everything as we slowly feed our campfire and look forward to a restful nights sleep under the stars. 

When we wake, it's cold - probably around 45 degrees. We make some breakfast and begin to breakdown camp before heading out. The trip back is as peaceful as the trip in with only a few muddy sections and one or two water crossings to distract from the incredibly relaxing experience. I ask Nick how he liked back packing and he comments on what an amazing weekend it has been. 

Returning to the jeep, we use some wet-wipes to clean the sweat from ourselves before putting on fresh clothes and heading for home. In all, we traveled about 16.2 miles. For anyone looking for a great 'beginners' backpacking trip, I would highly recommend this one.