Malakoff Diggins (Nevada County, California)

 

For the past several weeks, I've been trying to get my buddy, Nick, out on the trails, but unfortunately, things just weren't lining up. Finally, we found a day where he could get away. He seemed to be looking forward to it, but suggested not only hiking on Sunday, but camping the night before. Knowing I was running a half-marathon this weekend, I was a little hesitant, but I really wanted him to get outdoors again and so we decided to go for it. The destination was his suggestion, a place called Malakoff Diggins State Historical Park near Nevada City. "Near" was a somewhat loose term as we would discover.

After getting home from my half and showering, I started to pack. there were some delays on Nick's side, but he eventually got to my place about 3:30 PM and we made a run for the border . . . the California border that is. He had researched a couple of local campgrounds, but as we checked them out one after another, they were either still closed for the season or not in favorable locations. As we weighed our options, we decided to go on into the park and just get a taste of it. Though, it was getting late in the day, we ended up finding the gate to the park campground open. We decided to pitch our tents and just stay here, and to our delight, we were the only campers in the entire place. As tired as I was from my run, I hit the sleeping bag nearly as soon as I got unpacked and slept fairly well through the night.

We rose at about 5:30 AM, cooked a quick breakfast, broke camp, and hit the trail. Originally, we were intending to hike the rim trail, which we thought was about three miles round trip, but as we soon learned, it was point-to-point. While it was a nice trail through the woods, with mazanita trees and a few small streams, it wasn't overly scenic.

When we finally approached the end of the trail, we decided to double back and do the loop trail through the main attraction of the diggins. From what I have read, gold was discovered in this area back in 1852 and basic panning and other mining techniques were used to extract the wealth. When the deposits were discovered to be far-reaching and more rich than originally known, the mining claims were consolidated under a single corporate owner. A short time later, the destruction of the land began. The corporate owners build and started utilizing hydraulic water cannons to eat through the surrounding mountainsides in search of the yellow metal. Downstream communities were feeling the effects of this forced erosion in their water supply and filed legal action against the company, eventually winning and forcing an end to the practice.

Following the road just a couple of hundred yards from where the Rim Trail dumped us out, we quickly find the entrance to the Diggins Loop Trail and begin to explore the devastation. Though mining operations have been in active here for approximately 135 years, the deep scars of this raping of the earth are still as clear as day.

All around this man-made canyon, the streams of high-pressure water have eaten through whatever vegetation was once there and the earth under neath it to reveal orange-red cliffs, which resemble the walls of the grand canyon, but show the obvious signs of being formed not by the slow hand of time, but by the greed of man. On the canyon floor near the walls, white quartz sand carpets and crunches underfoot. In the center of the canyon, what is essentially a muddy swamp has formed. With no tree roots on the canyon walls to slow the erosion or run-off, the water seems to have simply drained off make this mess, which will probably be a mosquito paradise in another month or so.

We weave our way through the out-skirts of the swamp, but it's impossible to not get wet and muddy at times. seeing the destruction up close and personal like this makes me want to weep. I so hope this land will heal someday and that until it does, we can learn from our mistakes.

Finally, hitting the uphill section that will return us to the beginning of the rim trail, we re-enter the woods. It's somewhat steep and while my legs are tired from yesterday's run, I'm feeling pretty good. Arriving back at the car, we find that we hiked about 6.8 miles - not bad for the day after a half-marathon. We did get to explore a very interesting, if horrific, place as well. The people of California have dedicated this area as a state historic park with the hopes that it will discourage such destructive practices from being used in the future. I hope it works.

Reno's Biggest Little Half-Marathon (Washoe County, Nevada)

*Photo courtesy of Desert Sky Adventures

Though I have run several half-marathons and other events since running my first full marathon back in March of last year, I haven't really trained very much since the weeks leading up that event. When I ran the annual Leprechaun Race 5k a few weeks ago, it showed. My finishing time was embarrassing considering what I have accomplished in past years. It really gave me a kick in the ass and got me started training once more. Since then, I have been running regularly at ever-increasing distances and paces. My first test came today in the form of Reno's Biggest Little Half-Marathon.

Known for having a strong community of runners, I expected a pretty big turn out and arriving at the starting line under the downtown Reno Arch, I wasn't disappointed. There were approximately a thousand people waiting to run. Though, some were running the associated 5k or 10k, it was still a pretty big turn out for the "biggest little city".

At 8:00 AM on the dot, the gun sounded and we were off through the streets of downtown Reno. It's a cold morning, but not bitterly cold. As I funnel through the starting arch, I feel pretty strong and after the first mile, I'm find my pace and get into my rhythm. 

I continue running solid through mile 8, but at that point, I'm starting to feel it. While I'm not overly winded, I can feel my legs starting to tighten up. It's not surprising as this is the furthest distance I've run in six months. My longest training run leading up to this, which was just three days ago, was 6.2 miles on the treadmill. From that point forward, I committed myself to running everything but the uphills, which I resolved to walk. Hills are always what kill me. 

My plan seemed to work pretty well. As I made the turn heading back along the river and into downtown, I was still able to find the strength to run. Finally turning up Virginia Street, I could see the blue arch that I had run under a little over two hours ago and inspired me to push the last quarter mile.

I crossed the finish line with an official time of 2:24:42. This is not my best time for a half-marathon, but given my recent return to training, I would have been happy with anything under 2:30 and so this is a great time. I accept my finisher's medal and then head over to get my complimentary beer from Brewer's Cabinet. That's way to finish!

Bonneville Salt Flats (Tooele County, Utah)

 

Many times over the years, I have driven from Reno to Salt Lake City or beyond. Just after crossing the Nevada/Utah border, Interstate 80 traverses a thirty-ish mile section of the straightest and flattest road possibly in the entire world. In the salt flats over which the highway passes, many of the land-speed records of the past have been set and broken. 

This vast expanse of salt covered earth and the Great Salt Lake to the east are what remain of the massive Lake Bonneville that covered this land many thousands of years ago. While this time of year, much of the land is covered by shallow rain waters the land will quickly dry and return to the barrier that scared many a settler from coming this way more than a century ago. I stand here looking over the vastness and can only think of the hell those that dared cross must have suffered through.

Buffalo Point - Antelope Island (Davis County, Utah)

 

Arriving in Salt Lake City a bit earlier than expected, I decided to check out Antelope Island, which is a large island just off the shoreline of the Great Salt Lake. The area is a state park and home to elk, buffalo, mule deer, and, of course, antelope. 

After driving around the island for a bit, I decide to hike up to Buffalo Point, which is the highest point on a peninsula jutting from the northwest corner of the island. It's a short hike, but fairly steep. As I climb up the hill, I can see for a probably a hundred miles in all directions. Looking out over the large shallow lake I can see mountains in all directions. To the east, Salt Lake City sits below the snow-covered rockies.

I was hoping to see some buffalo (bison actually) from up here, but there are none to be found. I decide to return to the jeep and explore a bit more. Driving to the eastern side of the island, I see several of the great lumbering beasts grazing on the steep grass-covered hillsides. They take little notice of me and knowing their reputation for being ill-tempered, I decide to not push my luck.

Having seen what I came for, I decide to head into the city and get checked in. This hike was only a little over a mile, but it's been a long weekend and it's time for some relaxation. 

Red Canyon Rim - Flaming Gorge (Daggett County, Utah)

My final trail for the day takes me over the Uinta Range and through a very mild snowstorm before dropping me down into the Flaming Gorge. The gorge is filled by a reservoir created by impounding the waters of the Green River. As I drive around the facility, it seems most of the services, including the visitor center and restrooms are still closed for the season. I'm at 7,400' here and it is a bit brisk, but I didn't expect everything to be closed. 

Refusing to surrender, I decide to go ahead and hike the trail I had intended to, the Red Canyon Rim Trail. Parking at the campground, I quickly find the trail as it winds around a side canyon to the mighty gorge below me. I've almost visited this national recreation area in the past, but never quite made it. After seeing the enormous red canyon below me, I'm sorry I waited until now.

The Flaming Gorge is a vast expanse very reminiscent of the Grand Canyon, though the walls seem steeper and the water at the canyon floor seems much wider and deeper, though calm and not flowing as the Colorado does through the Grand Canyon.

Several vantage points offer amazing views as the trail follows the canyon rim. There is no one here and it's a bit, which I actually kind of like. I bet this is a very popular area in warmer weather, but for now, I'm content to have it all to myself. Just as that thought crosses my mind, a herd of a dozen or more mule deer cross the trail just a couple of dozen yards ahead of me. They seem curious and cautious, but not scared. I don't approach them; I keep my distance and snap some pictures. They watch curiously, but mostly go on about their business.

When the trail begins to leave the rim and head towards another campground, I decide to head back. I considered getting more miles in today, but it's getting late and I still need to find some sleeping arrangements for the night. This trail added about 2.4 miles to my daily total. Considering I've hiked five short trails today, the 12 or so total miles all add up to a pretty good day of hiking.

Red Fleet Dinosaur Trackway (Uintah County, Utah)

 

Red Fleet Reservoir provides a necessary water source for desert area around Vernal, UT. It was also the site of a very interesting find by paleontologists. Now it's time for me to replicate their find, with the help of directions and proper signage. What was found is the fossilized remnant of a muddy lake bottom, on which several small dinosaurs (believed to be dilophosarus) left their tracks for posterity.

The trail is marked by painted dinosaur prints on the desert rocks to show the way, but it still somewhat challenging to follow. The desert here is quite beautiful and offers some great views of the reservoir in the distance. 

When I finally reach the water, a number of signs provide details of the numerous tracks in the area. The area looks almost like a boat ramp. The thin sheets of shale that formed ancient lake bottom have been upturned at an angle similar to a ramp. I utilize the map to locate the tracks. It takes a minute, but eventually, begin seeing them.

There are so many tracks here. In several cases, the prints are believed to have been made by the successive steps of a single specimen, thus making it a trackway. It's really jaw-dropping to see such a rich find here. I spend several minutes locating the different tracks and trackways, comparing my own foot to the ones that created the prints, and snapping pictures. 

Returning to the jeep, I check my mileage and find that I covered about 1.9 miles. It was truly worth the visit though. Seeing such ancient footprints makes one think about what this landscape must have looked like those tens-of-millions of years ago.

Moonshine Arch (Uintah County, Utah)

I've read of an arch in the hills north of Vernal, UT and since I'm in the area, I might as well go out and find it. To reach Moonshine Arch, requires taking the jeep down some fairly rough dirt and sand roads. Finally arriving at the trailhead, there are already a number of cars here. Just as I depart down the trail, another group leaves as well. As there are a number of OHV trails going in different directions, I ask my fellow adventurers if they know the way. They respond by telling me to take two rights and I should arrive. 

As they seem to be a bit slower-paced than I am, I quickly break away from the friendly lot and make my way down the trail. The trail heads up the hill over boulders and through sand until finally dumping me out right at the base of the arch. 

It's a medium-sized arch in comparison to many others I have visited. It rises about 60 feet out of the desert floor and spans about 200 feet. Interestingly, it sits beside a sandstone cliff from which it was probably separated eons ago. In the cliff, a number of small caves offer shelter from this light drizzle to a harmonica player and his companions. I explore the area just a little bit before heading back the way I came. Definitely worth a visit.